landroversforever Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I'm after peoples experiences of the aftermarket A-Frame Ball joints available. Which has the most travel? and what is the quality like? Need to get one ordered for my build, I'll be running +5" OME, QT relocation cones, standard A frame and a pair of X arms. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I had the one from QT several years ago, it seemed well built, with good travel and adjustment. I never used it though, as I opted to modify the axle bracket instead to cope with a 4" lift and get the axle aligned. The guy I sold it to was pleased with the performance, but did comment afterwards it didn't last very long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I'm not saying you won't "get away with it" but there isn't a lot of space/clearance on it normally and +5" sounds a lot. I really would go four link for that much travel. It'll be super right then Can you make your own D44 one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOA 93 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Surely you'd go for an X-ball? To go along with your X-Arms, I'm going to give the new Britpart one a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Surely you'd go for an X-ball? To go along with your X-Arms, I'm going to give the new Britpart one a go. Hmm, I've got one "waiting" to be installed... I can't remember why but it got bashed with a hammer, and I was rather shocked at how much the steel deformed, very very soft, which had definitely given me second thoughts on installing it. I've got an old genuine housing I'm in the process of extracting the old ball out of and got a genuine ball joint to replace with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOA 93 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Perhaps you could give the genuine one a smack with a hammer and report back. I'm assuming the Lemfroder joints are genuine is that correct? Back when X-Eng first brought out the X-ball there was a discussion on here about joints, and I brought up the Fact that Rakeway were modifying the joints for high angle use in there front suspension on the Ridgeback, they used A-Frame ball joints top and bottom to connect the wishbones to the uprights. Can you take the adjustable ones apart? If you can then you could maybe clearance one just in the plane you want the extra travel. The Britpart one come with a 2 year warranty, can I assume that's only valid if it stays in the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 The genuine one was a lot harder, (casting/ball mount) that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Well I wasn't going to go anywhere near britpart, you're a brave man SOA93!! I was looking at either the x-eng one or the one from Gwyn Lewis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I just fitted Gwyn's and it is a good unit with two rows of splines. But I can't help on the angle it will do, as I winch-challenge on standard length shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 I just fitted Gwyn's and it is a good unit with two rows of splines. But I can't help on the angle it will do, as I winch-challenge on standard length shocks. I think I'm leaning towards Gwyn's one, his kit is normally really well thought out and I have his rear shock mounts with +5" OME that they are designed for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 In general the higher the suspension sits the lesser angle will the joint take, remember its shaped like a ball. Sure some of the aftermarket ones have been clearanced to help this, but in its nature it works best in the absolute center. I would say that a +5" lift will be way bad for the joints geometry, and finding a way to make it sit more plane would probably be the best way for travel regardless of the joint you choose. Do you really need a 5" lift? Usually biting the bullet and trimming a bit more in the body makes for a much better handling car (and more reliable because of bushing and prop angles) My Brother has 38"x15.5"-16"s on his ninety with only a 2" lift.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Sorry I should have been clearer... its only the shocks that are +5". The coils will be standard height if I can get enough tyre clearance. Worse case the lift will be 2". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 In a way it 'hinges' on how far up the rear wheel goes into the wheel well on cross axelling. If it makes the axel touch the bumpstop when the oposite side is at full shock travel, there is a lot of angle on that ball. But if it can't go full-flex due to spring rate then the risk is reduced. If that ball joint is the limiting factor, then that's a hell of a lot of leverage on the little feller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Okay, puts things in another perspective, then I will let you carry on your research Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I have a paddocks "wide angle" ball joint fitted. It looks just like every other adjustable/wide angle ball joint on the market. Are they all the same? The coils will be standard height if I can get enough tyre clearance. Worse case the lift will be 2". What size tyres will you be using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 I'll be going for 35/12.5R16 Lewis, on banded Wolf wheels . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 No lift required then, 35's fit okay except in the rear wheel boxes, but a two inch lift wouldn't solve that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Perfect, I'm already planning on tubbing the rear wheel boxes for clearance. My only issue might be clearance to the spring seat but will have to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 You should be okay on 16" with standard spring rate, my 15" only just touch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Ordered one from Gwyn Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I had a Gwyn Lewis one on my blue 90 - and that was fine. Decent travel on it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 If the angle gets critical, I would cut out the boss in the rr axle and weld in one of these at the correct angle: http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/083B Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Yeh, but if your going to cock about that much, you might as well weld some ears on and go 4 link. It's more work, but once you have the grinder and welder out . . . . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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