First of all apologises, engine swop questions.

[bushwhacker]

Hi. I have a 1986 reg 110 csw 2.5 na, with an lt 77 and power steering.

I have a good chance of getting a 300 tdi engine just it, to do a conversion.

From what info I have the 300 might need an engine mount welded on?

The na bell housing goes onto the 300 this should mean I can use the lt 77 and the 110 main drive shafts.

Does anything need done to the clutch slave cylinder? I put the na clutch in, it hasn't seem 10, 000 miles so I will use it.

Will the turbo and down pipe fit ok, I can get a 300 down pipe, mid and rear to save any problems.

Power steering will it need any work?

I'm thinking of going for an electric fan set up when I get to that stage and no cowling.

I know this has been covered before but that's the problem there are a few ways to go at it and I am trying to get things sorted on paper first, (so to speak).

Any advice will be most appreciated. Mark.

[ejparrott]

It sounds like you've got it covered to be fair!

You might need custom hoses for the PAS but I would have though a 300 set would fit.

A full 300 exhaust should fit straight in although you might perhaps need to fit new hangers to the chassis, I don't know the size of the NA exhaust to know if that will work.

The drivers side engine mount will need swapping, unless you make a special engine mount to wrap around the oil filter. Can be done to fit it into a 90/110, but can't be done for a Series unfortunately. You can buy kits that include a jig for the mounts.

[MuddyWinny]

Hello,

This is something I looked into a while ago for a 90 and this is what I found:

1) The 300tdi has different engine mounts.

You can:

a) Cut out your existing mounts and weld custom mounts onto your chassis (See Steve Parkers web site)

b) There was a thread on this forum where somebody had fabricated a custom engine mount adapter that wrapped round the oil filter that then allowed the existing mounts to be used.

2) The lt77 can be mated to the 300tdi flywheel housing but you do need to remove the dowel and tap a thread. Not all the bolt holes line up though so it depends on how happy you are with this. The alternative is to fit an earlier flywheel housing and oil seal.

3) Now is a good time to replace the slave cylinder if you think it is needed. I would also replace the clutch, bearing and release fork (heavy duty or with a strengthening plate welded to it). Please check but I believe it same clutch fits all 4 cylinder engines from 300tdi back to the 2.5NA. I would recommend fitting a heavy duty (from a 130?) friction plate.

4) The turbo fits fine but the pipework doesn't.

a) Exhaust down pipe: When fitted to a lt77 the 300tdi sits further back than the factory fitted ones therefore the down pipe will be too long. If you have opted for the custom engine mount adapter that wraps round the oil filter then you need to get inventive to bend the down pipe round the engine mount.

b) The 300tdi exhaust has different mounts to the bodywork.

c) You'll also need something like the air intake from a discovery to pipe to the intake side of the turbo.

d) Oil cooler, intercooler and top coolant hose also no longer reach (you can buy conversion pipes for the first 2) you, also have to get inventive to fit the air filter.

5) I'm not sure if the pipes fit to the 300tdi power steering pump.

Once again, I'm sure someone else will be able to provide more information and correct me if I'm wrong.

Hope this helps.

[neonovice]

Some good info here:

http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200tdi.htm

[Eightpot]

Fitting the engine is straight forward, fabricate two engine mounts for the chassis (I posted dimensions in the tech archive last year I think), they're just made from flat steel.

Use the engine rubber mounts that come with the engine.

engine mates up to gearbox with no issues, no work needed to clutch sylinder etc.

You can use a standard 300TDi downpipe - you will probably find your chassis crossmember in the way though, and the front pipe will extend rearwards too much because the engine is sitting further back than in a factory car - I always cut out a 170mm section (from memory) from just after the first bend on the downpipe & weld it back up - this shortens it so it terminates in the right place to pick up the rest of the system and also lifts it a tad clear of the crossmember. To make it easier you can use the discarded section, grind a slit down it then use this as a sleeve inside the two sections when you weld them up

Intercooler pipework needs extending - for the lower hard pipe section I normally find a nic piece of clean exhaust pipe.

Oil cooler pipes - buy some suitable rubber pipe (for carrying hot oil) from somewhere like Pirtek. Carefully cut the old rubber pipe and flanges off, then attach your new longer hoses with good quality hose clamps or crimp on clamps (easily available from pirtek etc) - I use two per end and they haven't leaked yet.

Hope that little bit helps

[bushwhacker]

Guys thanks for all the very useful information.

Any more info will be most welcomed.

I've had my 110 for about 12 years and an engine conversion has been long over due and only for an offer from very good friend will allow this conversion to happen.

There's been a 88 s2/3, lw, rr, 200 and 300 discos. They have all come and gone but the 110 is still here I think that says it all for me.

Nothing wrong with the others mind but I have my favourite.

[bushwhacker]

Just a wee up date.

The 300tdi is on the bench new timing belt and a few other bits fitted.

I had driven a 1988 110 with a 200tdi conversion a few days ago what a diffence in power to the 2.5na.

I made a comment that when my 300tdi is in I could have a land rover for life, is that weird?

I think not.

Has anyone found the definitive 300tdi conversion guide yet. Please let me know.

[Eightpot]

This might be of some use, once the engine is in the rest is just fettling, but shout up if you hit any obstacles.

[bushwhacker]

Thanks for the link it will be very useful indeed.

Getting the engine sitting correct on the mounts was the one thing that I was unsure about I know the brkts are not standard but they wont look out of place.

I want to use as much standard parts as I can for if or when they need replaced.

Thanks again.

[bushwhacker]

I've been hunting around for a rear crankshaft seal for a 2.5nad and I have come up with a part no ERR 2532G but I've found some parts are from the not recommended brand and claiming to be oem. There in lies my quandary I want a seal that will not leak 2/3 weeks later. Does £5/6 sound about the right price?
Someone tell me where I can get a good reliable one from please.

[western]

look for Corteco or Elring brand seals

[steve b]

Do you know which transfer box you have ? iirc a 2.5NA may well have the 1.6 :1 ? which will be a bit low for the 300. The suffix table on Ashcrofts www will tell you which variant you have .

You will definitely be even more in love with the 110 with the new engine

cheers

Steveb

[GW8IZR]

The engine mount that slips round the tdi oil filter works very well and avoids chassis modification

The LHS mount fits well in the front two holes in the block, just run a tap down them to clear the thread (and make sure they are threaded of course) That gives you an inch or so more clearance for the exhaust downpipe. You will need to make a new downpipe with 2 x 45 degree bends instead of 1 x 90 degree if you go this way.

Whilst simply fitting the NA housing is a popular method I don't really think it is the best way. The NA housing rear main seal isnt as good as the "proper" 300TDI setup.

I did mine by cutting out a section of the NA housing to clear the proper tdi seal carrier and used a genuine seal. This is all very obvious when you have both housings off the engine(s)

Also I suggest you don’t take the common bad advice of just removing the two locating dowels, its much better to slightly ream out the holes in the housing and keep the better locating method.

HTH

[RustyNissanPrairie]

I've been hunting around for a rear crankshaft seal for a 2.5nad and I have come up with a part no ERR 2532G but I've found some parts are from the not recommended brand and claiming to be oem. There in lies my quandary I want a seal that will not leak 2/3 weeks later. Does £5/6 sound about the right price?

Someone tell me where I can get a good reliable one from please.

"Dowty" is OEM for the rear crank seal - and should have the name/word on the metal portion of the seal. Anything green coloured and claiming to be OEM is likely to be carp. Dowty ones are £30+ but I've never usually paid more than £12 / £15 for them - keep an eye on Ebay for new old stock.

Why not keep the 2.5NA but fit a later NA/TD head that had far better porting, coupled with a bigger airbox (like the Donaldson Wolf ones that appear on ebay) and a tweak of the max fuel screw on the pump makes a massive difference to a 2.5NA.

It will never be as good as a TDI but it is simple and bulletproof.

edited to add:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-200-TDI-REAR-CRANKSHAFT-OIL-SEAL-OEM-ERR2532-/271271369560

[bushwhacker]

Thank you to all.

Not 100% sure which way to go on the join up but quite like the idea of using the na housng modified to fit the 300 rear crank seal GW81ZR has mentioned.

steve b, if you mean low as in more pulling power I'll be happy with that. We don't really have any long motorways in N.I. and I'm a back road user anyway.

RNP the 300 conversion has begun and I'm not going back now but thanks for the info any how.

Eightpot nice drawings.

[GW8IZR]

Here is a really carp picture of the template I used to chop the housing out, now bear in mind the NA housing doesnt have the ribs and stiffeners of the 300TDI housing and I was a bit suspicious when I had cut it out but its not been a problem here and the positive location of the rear main seal seems so much better.

HTH

[steve b]

Yes , it'll be very driveable for back roads and running around . As you suggest motorway work would be high revs to keep

up with the flow .

Enjoy

Steveb

[bushwhacker]

So the top one is the na modified to go onto a 300 engine and the bottom 300 std guise?

[GW8IZR]

almost ;-) the top one is the unmodified housing with a bit of ally sheet showing what I was just about to cut out.. sadly I didn't take an "after" photo but you get the idea.

[bushwhacker]

We came across a problem when fitting a new timing belt.

We noticed the idler did not look to be aligned with the tensioner, we are missing the spacer/washer I think. We have id'd the parts as LHV 100150 idler and LHP 100860 tensioner but no spacer.

Does anyone know the dimemsions for the spacer/washer or part no if it has one?

[western]

no spacer listed in parts info or shown in this 300tdi timing belt change by Les H. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6943

[pete3000]

Parts numbers may require closer inspection, not saying there's anything wrong but the vin split may not like it. If you look on google image search at the rear face of the idler it has a different profile.

ETC8560 vs LHV100150 (LHV100150 has a step in it)

ERR1972 vs LHP100860 (may have a smaller id hole for LHV100150).

Check your vin/engine number to see if there is a difference. As Western says there shouldn't be any washers/spacers.

pic from another place to illustrate

http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18564

[bushwhacker]

Yes LHV100150 has a step and matches up with LHP100860.

When fitted and the belt is on, the belt sits very slightly over the outer edge of the idler, is this the way it should be ?

Or sitting level at both edges of the idler wheel ?

It looked like the spacer in behind would solve the slight overhang, as per 3 ? manuals but this way I have found out is the early tensioner and idler set up and it uses the washer.

Am I being a bit over cautious in the set up and my honest excitment to get Big Tessy TDI if-fide.

Thanks for the help guys.

[danebrewer]

one thing i found out when i did my 300tdi conversion is that you cant just cut the engine mounts off the chassis of the disco and slap them on the 90/110, the spacing of the chassis rails seems to be different, and it pushes the engine over to the left IIRC as you look at it from the front, you'll need to do some fettling or get the proper engine mounts from steve parker or someone similar, alas i never got to drive my conversion, i poked the footwells with a screwdriver and before i knew it i'm balls deep in a full on nut and bolt rebuild with the 300tdi and R380 from the donor disco

on the flywheel front, i just used the old 2.5 NA/D flywheel housing with the 300 TDI, bolts right on.....

[bushwhacker]

Thanks for the heads up on the engine mounts. I hope to make the mount for the d/side and be able to use the p/side.

I am going with the gear and transfer boxes that are in now and will only change when broke, na clutch and bell housing, 300 flywheel housing adapted to be and look right (not loads of bolts missing).