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"Tech" Changing (in my case) a 90 from Glass fuses to Blade


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Argh.

MY 1985 90, whilst much of the wiring is standard and fair condition, the dreadful 80s glass fuses
Are appalling. I have worse and worse suffered with blown fuses, fuses that last days weeks sometimes a minute or 2. Corroded connections etc etc etc.

Having spoken to a number of peeps who know the consensus was glass fuses are dire. Worse still when they are on a 30+ off road 90 that likes water and mud. And according to 2 electrical suppliers to me the "quality" glass fuses are no longer made - what is made is junk. In my box of new glass fuses last weekend off road saw other fuse blow. The end silver bit fell off !.....as did the end on the brand swanky new one as I picked it up,....

So enough.

I also want to move my ash locker switches to a better position in the cubby box, and redo all the additional 2 x levy fan wiring that was ok till I put BIG SPALs x2 on it which the wiring is a bit under rated. Relays are ok but I want just ONE fuse box....for all fuses AND relays.

Oddly I have also been told that mini fuses are better than standard blade fuses (minus go higher amps) BUT anything over say 15 amps to jump up to the new type maxi fuses.

I have been looking now for some time and done loads of research....I even found a glass fuses older to blade type fuse converter.....and was informed that with current set up of around 20 fuses all in gives with glass 40 poss probs and converters will up that to 80 !

I have looked at sniffling a fuse relay unit off a RR p38 etc..but it's a bit of a bodge and getting the terminals out of a x years old plastic box etc etc then new terminals but it's not really super neat ...

It's really a do it once type job is. I don't like neither am I good at electrics...so this is very much a day thread for those like me who want to rid of the hopeless glass fuses and clip fittings...it's just my solution after a long time thinking....may not be best...defo not the only way I am sure ...but it's what I am doing.

So I started with a bit of A4 paper with the current fuse layout on it 4 on left then 2x banks 6 each then another 2x 2....this excludes the extra wiring for fans etc one thing at a time.

Where I could I listed all the wires in and out of the 20 fuses and the ratings...these glass fuses are so carp not even marked as to the ratings !!

I did look at also using a 90 type blade fuse panel and redoing ...same go to get ALL old terminals out without damage and not custom able enough....

So before we start on pulling the old lot out some info on what I intend to use.

From Neil at pole volt - a "modular" fuse and relay unit

I have picked a x 5 bay version.

So far I will have
1x bay with 6 maxi fuses
1x bay with 16 mini fuses
2x bays with 2 x standard size relays in each
1x bay spare

Cover terminals crimp on, heat shrink adhesive lined stuff various sizes, heat shrink solder connector joiners - various sizes terminals some super seal connector and a **** load of various fuses.

Here's an example off the pole lot website of a setup. You can have whatever bays / layout / number of bays you want but it means everything in one place and neat.

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Modular_Fuse_and_Relay_System.html

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Very neat...not cheap tho....

So I just dare not "rip" all the wiring out....be lost in seconds....so the plan was to "release" all
The fuse boxes etc and remove steel tray....this would allow me to then see the colours of all the other wires hidden at the moment as they are behind the steel panel.

some pics :

The fuse box assembly a la standard 1985 V8 90

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the 2 x main banks of fuses are the 2 x blocks of 6. The ones on the RHS (Rear wash wiper (handy on a Truck cab lol) .. seem to be factory optional extra add ons, as are the LHS.

These are the main 90s fuses :

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And the "optional Extras" still factory, but I have over the years tagged into them ...badly lol

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Now, the centre panel here is going to have all the Ashlocker switches moved to cubby biox for better eaccess off road, so that has to come out - along with the ciggy lighter and rear wash wiper switches.

The ARB has its own detachable plug / harness (yippee)

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But...gaining access meant that I had to remove most of the top and middle dash to aviod risking pulling wires off plugs etc as its all tight in there ...

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Finally after dash out tray and other bits things could be moved on- the old glass fuse 6 way holder are clipped into the steel plate, these could be prised off, and after a bit iof work the plate removed and put on one side, the main holders now give up there secrets iof wire colours, and also on the BACK yes the BACK of the steel plate bolted to the bulkhead hidden completely and totally no acess were - 3 relays lol !

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So, more to come as things progress

:D

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"cock"

Starter had also died and new replacment arrived (more £s)

Erm, on inspection of the (what was left) of the engine wiruing loom another bit problem arose, missing plastic, cooked wires, bare wires, fraid and damaged wires, I decided to take the easy route and bought a new

loom as it was "Plug n Play" everything with right ends etc, and savs time....Took most of the morning has aluminium clioth heat coverings on it and heatshrinked etc for proper job, more wiring but it still starts and runs !

Much nmore on the main job tommorow, so far I have identified more and choped out / removed all ARB FAN and other stuff I have fited over the years, and have used up most but not all of the 4 modules, with 1 x module still avaiable if neded

Prob missed something but have a plan now for Friday which hopefully will be forward progress and not just a Wirey-rip-a-thon :(

But.....its spins over s oooooo fast. ..never ever been this quick lol

Plan

:

post-22-0-15320900-1427308479_thumb.jpg

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When I rewired my 1983 110 I used the fuse board from a 200 Tdi Disco. I removed it carefully from the doner with plenty of wire tails and cut and spliced the relevant circuits in while adding new ones to spare circuits. Most of the wiring colours are common as are guage and most of my upgrades were catered for on the disco board already so kept the standard layout. Best of all it was free! I also added a under bonnet main fuse board from a 300 tdi disco to protect major circuits with the mega fuses and to have a handy set of extra fused circuits to take relay feeds from for headlights, spots etc.

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When I totally rewired my Disco I replaced all the spade fuses with mini Circuit Breakers. The rear seat has long time gone - the space taken up with storage drawers and a 47 litre fridge/ freezer and the foot-well with a S/S 90 litre water tank. The fuse/relay panel is now located in the rear where its easy to get to and always dry, to protect the CB's, relays and wiring I made a fibre-glass cover retained by 4 socket head pan head screws.



The only relays remaining under the bonnet are the relay for the top LED driving light, main ignition relay, Glow-plug relay and A/C relay.
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Thanks to Jon Whites crimping skills tonight things have defo turned corner !!

More maybe end of weekend

In the meantime the eta mini fuse circuit types found supply here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ETA-Series-1620-Circuit-Breaker-Designed-To-Replace-Mini-Blade-Fuses-/141428768313?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item20edcfbe39

But at that price that's a load a standard fuses !

Might go for the mini led types these are still cheap and glow if blown which makes life easy...

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  • 2 weeks later...

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