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Removal of 300Tdi crankshaft bolt - HELP!


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Hi, All,

I'm still on my "Replace Cambelt" project, following the write-up in the Tech Archive. I've got as far as trying to remove the crankshaft bolt using the method described. I've cranked the engine at least thirty times, and even connected my starter booster/charger, but there's no sign of the bolt loosening. What should be my next line of attack? Since it's a bolt, rather than a nut, I assume that heating it would not be the way to go, or is it? What about putting it in gear, park brake on, wheels chocked and using a f....ing long lever on the 27mm bolt head? I'm all out of ideas!

Mike

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Mine wouldn't budge via the starter motor either. On my 200TDi i tried putting it in gear, in difflock, handbrake on... it caused a massive amount of transmission windup then the handbrake couldn't hold out and longer and it started moving. Probably worth a go, but don't be surprised if it doesn't work.

Best way in my opinion is to lock out the flywheel using either a timing kit or some home-made contraption (HT bolt through a wading plug would work), then get a breaker bar and some leverage. Did that on my 300TDi and it was a piece of cake with a breaker bar and some scaffolding tube

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The clutch will slip before the bolt loosens

When you say the "method described", was this to put a breaker bar against the underside of the RH chassis rail and then flick the starter over? If yes and you have cranked the engine thirty times then something is very wrong

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Lewis,

Yes, the breaker bar under the chassis method. Of course, the engine hasn't turned over, it's just that the starter has engaged and it gives one hell of a thump against the chassis. I suppose it's a bit like an impact wrench, and maybe I just need to carry on thumping the chassis. To make sure that it's a good thump I've also been using two batteries in parallel So, what could be "very wrong"? If thread lock has been used on this bolt, would that give this problem?

If I try jackmac's method of blocking the flywheel with a bolt, what has "a tendency to shear off"? Is it the bolt, or is it damage to the flywheel/teeth, or might it damage the bell-housing?

Mike

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I thought you meant that you had done thirty revolutions of the engine with the breaker bar against the chassis, that would be very wrong :)

I haven't tried locking the flywheel with a bolt, but I did try it using the locking tool used for timing, this is only 5mm dia where it engages the crank, so understandaby sheared immediately

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You'll want something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-300tdi-CRANK-ANTI-ROTATION-LOCKING-TOOL-for-PULLEY-REMOVAL-LRT-12-080-/360394412875 to hold the crank pulley. Then use a 3/4 breaker bar with a pipe over it.

I went straight for this method and it worked great. It's most useful when doing the nut up, because it's frigging tight + 90 degrees.

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I had a crank pulley stuck on a 2.25 diesel. Nothing would get it off, in the end a mate with a large compressor in his van (mobile tractor mechanic) got it off with a 1" impact wrench after 20 minutes or so...

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It looks like someone has used the wrong adhesive on the crank bolt thread as a breaker bar on it usually does the job. Locking the flywheel is normally effective, but excessive force may damage it and replacing the ring gear involves a lot of work. Heat will have no effect at all - oil seal damage is all that you can expect, which is no big deal as it can easily be replaced, but heat soak will prevent much else from happening. Try putting the breaker bar a few inches away from the chassis, so when you turn the key it has some momentum before it all locks up. This can sometimes make a difference.

Les

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Not wishing to expand the job by taking the radiator out so that I could use my pneumatic impact driver, which seems to have been the best suggestion for the tools I have, I just kept on thumping the chassis,as previously - my 12v impact driver - and off it came! :i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy:

I think that this time the bar was as Les suggested, so it had a bit more momentum before thumping the chassis.

Many thanks, everybody, for helping me solve that "hard" problem. Now, I wonder what'll be next! :unsure:

Mike

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You'll want something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-300tdi-CRANK-ANTI-ROTATION-LOCKING-TOOL-for-PULLEY-REMOVAL-LRT-12-080-/360394412875 to hold the crank pulley. Then use a 3/4 breaker bar with a pipe over it.

I went straight for this method and it worked great. It's most useful when doing the nut up, because it's frigging tight + 90 degrees.

This.

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And believe it or not, once I'd got the crankshaft bolt out the crank pulley came off with no trouble at all. I was gearing up to make a puller for this, but a flat bar between the pulley and the block just slid it off. Perhaps there is a Land Rover god after all! :i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy:

Mike

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For the record, I found the best tool t use is an impact breaker bar, this tool is about 1 metre long with a right angled 1/2" drive on the end. You simply put the correct socket on the drive, put it on the crank bolt (after the application of some heat to destroy any residual Loctite) and hit the end of the bar with a bloody big mallet - it's designed for this oration and has a turned out end. A couple of well hit strikes and the bolt comes free.

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