IanT90 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Already put this in previous topic but need some quick feedback. Stripped swivel assembly top bearing was just in bits inside the housing. The refub kit only supplied top pin. Normally bottom pin is left alone but having been in there for 20 years and possible extra load and wear to to lack of a top bearing would you replace it ? Close to re assembly now and debating wether to order bottom pin and gasket and then its done ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Yes, I would. they're not expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Took your advice and ordered one not worth messing about for the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Bottom pin retaining bolts are sometimes difficult to remove/shear off, which is why I don't replace it unless necessary. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Indeed, unless totally munched they only locate, so just need to be round, and reasonable snug fit for the inner race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrr47 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Absolutely. Imagine having to strip it all down again to change that one part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 6, 2015 Author Share Posted June 6, 2015 I was feeling happy with the idea of replacing the bottom pin till I read the post from Les. Okay when it comes to doing jobs on any vehicle I have become a pessimist I assume if something can go wrong it probably will so that way if it doesn't I am pleasantly surprised. Just spent good couple of hours cleaning up the swivel housing never thought of trying to remove bottom pin first thanks Les. First job when I get home from work today is make sure bolts do come off. Still believe replacement best option in this case after 20 years and problem with top bearing not worth risk for price of a replacement. Cheers for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 But if you shear the bolts there will be more cussing.... it's not the cost, it's the arse when you scrap your swivel casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 6, 2015 Author Share Posted June 6, 2015 Exactly thats why I am now nervous. Trouble is I ordered bottom pin and gasket before reading comment from Les. Ah well time for blow torch and wd40 see how I get on. Would not have peace of mind leaving old pin in place any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 The bottom pin does not rotate in anything to cause wear like the top one does, the bottom bearing does the work. So as long as it's not been damaged by water and the surface is still smooth and round (i.e. no pitting and snug fit into bearing) I wouldn't have any issues with leaving it as is. If you've got the bits and you can get the bolts out ok then by all means swap it, but if it's all ok then it will be fine to leave it I would say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Exactly, as long as no rattle from the bearing that drops onto it, leave it. The old pin will be fine, not a wearing part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 I received the new bottom pin in the post yesterday so last night decided to take off the old one. Don't know if I was lucky but had no issues getting bolts off. Gentle heating let it cool then a spray of penetrating oil and out they came heating helps to break the loctite thread lock on bolts. Happy now can start to reassemble Monday. Only concern now is scoring damage on inside of stub axle. Not my doing I might add just hope I can get away with fitting needle roller bearing without it getting damaged the area where seal fits is okay suspect whoever fitted last bearing didn't support inside of bearing when fitting and it got damaged. If push comes to shove I can always replace stub axle at later date with new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 or just polish any marks out with fine emery paper to regain a smooth surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Don't use anything abrasive to clean up anything that relies on a bearing to be a snug fit - you will quite possibly make things worse. Without the right tool, needle rollers are notoriously difficult to fit, as the cage that retains the rollers is very fragile, so knocking/drifting it in may cause the rollers to come out. To minimise that risk, put the stub axle in an oven and the bearing in the freezer. The diameter of the bearing seat will increase, whereas the needle bearing will shrink. This makes it far easier to fit the bearing - more like pushing it in, rather than pressing or knocking. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thanks for advice Les,debating getting a new stub axle rather than risk the old damaged part. As the original brass bush is on good order and is now matched to the existing cv. Thought about swapping it to new stub. Is it just a straight forward heat it up till it expands and comes off or is it more tricky ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thanks for advice Les,debating getting a new stub axle rather than risk the old damaged part. As the original brass bush is on good order and is now matched to the existing cv. Thought about swapping it to new stub. Is it just a straight forward heat it up till it expands and comes off or is it more tricky ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Sorry not brass its phosphor bronze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 I'm a little surprised at the advice given here. From experience, the bottom pins do wear, and even a slight change in diameter of the pin (for whatever reason) will cause a wobble that you cannot "tighten" out of the system. - using the excuse of "I'm not touching that bolt as it might shear" is a bit poor in my opinion. If you start going down this road then you're just as bad as the cardboard body work gang and the "och - it will be fine if I don't look at it..."... My own opinion and maybe a little harsh for Monday morning but hey ho If you're in a controlled environment to fix said eventuality then get it sorted now, don't wait till you're in a corner and up against it to get something fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 To be fair Mav, the advice here is to change it if it's worn, but to leave if it's not worn. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Both my lower pins had wear when I removed them, so they do get worn with time. For the tiny cost, I'll just be replacing them when the axle goes back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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