dangerous doug Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 soon I'll be sorting the suspension on the 110. this time round I want to do it properly and fit castor corrected arms at both ends Last time I checked (about 7years ago now) the QT style ones broke and now with a young family I am ever more conscious of things failing on the road at speed. Have QT sorted that problem? I've also come across the adrenalin 4x4 arms which arnt a pretty sight but they look pretty beefy. What are people's thoughts on them? And are there any other breeds of radius arms and trailing arms that are up to par?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 QT ones have been improved and no longer break -they removed the speed holes under the axle. Really have no idea on the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Why not just stick with the standard arms. They don't come any stronger.. I always thought they were ok unless you were using a lift of more than 2"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Why not redrill the swivels? In fact, why doesn't anyone make aftermarket castor corrected swivels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 fitting a Salisbury front and I will not be drilling that. The cranked and castor corrected fronts will aid in suspension movement (as it's not maxing out the bush already) and help a little retaining a slightly better turning circle which is valuable in a 110 lol. Those two factors are worth it to me but if there all as bad as they used to be ill be sticking with the lr arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 I thought you could get castor corrected swivels? I've never had any but my research into QT arms in the past has led me to believe the problems have been resolved. I always thought Equipe / Cor4 stuff looked very nice too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Yes.... but they come in a blue box http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-CASTOR-CORRECTED-SWIVEL-BALL-KIT-DA3203-/331410395355 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Someone else must do them as well Bowie. There is no way ****part would think of that on their own.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Can't see any, though apparently Tomcat used to do them. Personally I think making a jig for cutting, rotating, internal/external sleeving the axle tube would be a better product, that way if your swivels are good you don't have to muck about replacing them with blue box stuff :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Doesn't gwyn Lewis bend standard arms to suit? Axle travel may suffer but there's also castor corrected bushes. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Can't see any, though apparently Tomcat used to do them. Personally I think making a jig for cutting, rotating, internal/external sleeving the axle tube would be a better product, that way if your swivels are good you don't have to muck about replacing them with blue box stuff :/ Dirtydiesel has/had a jig for doing this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Tomcat now also have a jig I'm told. So has anyone used the adrenaline arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 fitting a Salisbury front and I will not be drilling that. The cranked and castor corrected fronts will aid in suspension movement (as it's not maxing out the bush already) and help a little retaining a slightly better turning circle which is valuable in a 110 lol. Those two factors are worth it to me but if there all as bad as they used to be ill be sticking with the lr arms. cant see them making any difference on suspension movement or turning circle. If any, they create more problems, because you propshaft angles become wrong, and your draglink gets lower to the ground, both bad news. I never bothered with them for that reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 The pivot point for the knuckle would be back to factory ish angles and a Salisbury front uses a double Cardon prop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 When I purchased my radius arms, we compared a Terrafirma and a Britpart unit in the shop, surprisingly the Britpart weighed more and had more welding holding the horizontal plates with the vertical member so in this case opted for the blue box ones. The only downside is that the inner edge of the arm sits close to the outer chassis leg but it very rarely touches on articulation. I don't think you can go too far wrong with the products that Gwyn Lewis are selling though. I have the twin-walled trailing arms ones on a 90 and they are twice the thickness of the unbranded cranked arms on the other 90. The axle end is not offset quite so much requiring a half moon shape to be cut in the axle bracket to prevent it binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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