ejparrott Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 I'd been toying with the idea of putting a hatch in. I'm in two minds whether to or not, and if I do put a baffle across the section where it goes under the cross-member, then the argument would be I need to have one for each section! At the moment I'm kind of going with it being another source of a leak, even if it is on the top. There's also the limited access to the top of the tank so anything like that would require removal of the tank. The thought has occurred to put the breather, pick-up, return and sender all on one separate plate which could double as an inspection hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 The 109 tank, as it was made in a hurry, we made a big hole in the top with a ring of nuts welded in and then mounted the fuel pickup to a plate that bolts in to that, the idea was at a later date I'd get round to switching to an in-tank pump or something... never got round to it but the idea was reasonable the hole is big enough to get your hand through although I've never needed to - I'd say a drain plug on the low point of the tank is a more useful feature for getting contaminants out, we had to use Mouse's one in Russia. While I think of it, there is an issue with creating non-standard flanges (fnarr) you can't buy a gasket for, it's inconvenient and you can't seal them with normal sealants as none of them are designed to live in permanent contact with fuel, in the end I rang Loctite's tech helpline and they gave me the part# for the correct gunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 This is true, fuel's can be a difficult thing to seal. The quality gaskets I've had previously have been cork, about 1/16" thick. They've not leaked so far and I've not done anything to them, just fitted them dry....probably should have soaked them in oil first! For the drains I'm going to weld in a pair of BSP sockets in the bottom corners at the front, on the sides not the bottom. Doesn't matter on this one much, but I'm experimenting and using The 109 as a test bed for the other 109, and one of the things I've thought about is avoiding the drain plug on the bottom, on the basis that the other 109 will be off-roading and I don't want to be knocking it off - which I've seen happen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 So I've booked a day off work to get on with this, and the gamble paid off and it's sunny. Bit windy for welding but we'll be fine. If only I had a fabrication workshop as well as a machine shop...... dr0ol1I've bent the filler tube, slightly overdone it and sligthly kinked it where the former sit at the ends but nothing to worry aboutI will trim it back a bit but I intend for it to go a fair way across the tank to add strength.In addition to my own fair collection I've also raided the collections of magnetic clamps from a couple of friends, first job is to set up the section that wraps around the cross-member, have to do this first otherwise I won't be able to weld the underneath of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Bottoms up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Have you thought about how you're going to leak test it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Yes. The filler tube is currently half inch over long and I've bored the end. I'll weld in a plug, test it, then cut it back to length. The holes for the pick up and return I'll weld pads on the inside, then drill through after test. For the sender unit, I've made a ring to take the bolts, and a blank plate which I'll use for the test fitting with just the same bolts. For the breathers, I'm going to use ordinary 1/2" hose tails, screwed into elbows which are welded to the tank top, so ordinary BSP plugs for those.I'd like to hydraulic test it with oil but it'll take too much and we haven't got enough at work, rather not use water so I think it might just be air, 5psi should be enough. Soapy water all round then to look for bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Starting to take shape nowHow the filler tube is going to sit - checking I can get in to weld it after the bottom goes on And magnet forest...bit annoyed the 2 50lb magnets I ordered specially haven't turned up when they should have come with today's post at the latest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 This is where I left it tonight, looking very tank like...Main shell is together, still got some welding to do on the outside of the corners, I've started. I've put in the 1/2" BSP sockets for the drains, the filler tube is in having measured up the existing fittings as best I can on The 109. Tomorrow morning I'll go and get the hose tails and the elbows I want to use for the breathers before going over to David's to help him change his Disco clutch, then hopefully on Saturday morning before going over to put our milling machine back together at the club I'll get a piece of plate to cap the rear if they're in, if not I'll have to get it next week sometime.Getting there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 How do you keep the workmate so clean? For the top of the tank I'd consider fitting a later type opening - have a look at a D2 tank on ebay and you'll see what I mean, if you site it right you should/might just be able to remove it through the floor hatch. Then you could put in a tank pump type pickup at a later stage. It's a raised flange in a slight recess and should be no bother for you to make up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 I'll have a look. Been to get the fittings this morning but I couldn't get any weldable elbows, be Thursday before I can get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 You mean the one with the screw on locking ring? Not too keen on that to be honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Yep, wouldn't have thought that'd be a problem for you, though I do understand that it's a hassle. Bit of futureproofing, that's all. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 How thick is that metal? Looks like something Nige would turn out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 "No bash plate required" Would have thought 2mm would have been enough, but that looks more like 4? Sure there is a reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share Posted September 26, 2015 I could create the later ring for attaching stuff, and I do like the idea of the later units with sender, and fuel lines all in one, especially the in tank fuel pump as the one thing that does worry me a bit is lift pump failures which lead to engine failure - friend had one go, seized the engine....I'm not a fan of major engine work at the best of times! I've used 3mm plate for it....it's getting heavy now....in hindsight 2.5 would have been better, or even 2mm. Knowing that I wanted to fully weld the inside as well as the outside I thought the 3mm would stand up to it better without twisting. I'll not be worrying about it rusting through that's for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 At work we use 3mm 308 stainless when we manufacture tanks, it'll stop a 9mm round. On highway vehicles / non defense stuff we use 10mm plastic fully welded 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 At work we use 3mm 308 stainless when we manufacture tanks, it'll stop a 9mm round. On highway vehicles / non defense stuff we use 10mm plastic fully welded Bit rough around your area, is it? Seriously, 3mm 308 sounds ideal for a tank, removing the rust issue sounds like a damn good plan. I wonder if there is another flange that would suit as well? Any modern non LR tank that bolts in the pickup/return, rather than the current LR screw arrangement? It's quite a benefit, in my view, to be able to go with an intank pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Hmmmmmmm heavvvy duuuuutyyyyy... its looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Very heavy now! All being well my weldable elbows should be in stock today, I'll pick them up tomorrow when I'm not at work. I've got the piece of plate in the workshop for blanking off the back, so hopefully I can do that all tomorrow. I've decided to just go with the same plain simple baffle that's in the skinny 109 tank. I have thought about everything everyone has said and shown about the pick-up, and thanks for all the info, but this vehicle isn't going to be doing as much as Land Rover even intended it to do, so I'm just going to fit the simple sheet steel U section that's in the other tank. It'll help kill the surging, it'll be simple to make, and it'll hold back a quantity of fuel if I'm climbing something like Hardknott or Wrynose again! I can't get a picture of it in the current tank, but I'll be sure to picture it when I make it for the new tank. I'm going to stick with the LR fittings for sender and pick-up etc too. Gaz is absolutely right in what he says about using an in tank pump and I don't for one minute disagree. This is made of 3mm steel though, isn't likely to rust in a hurry, and should I change my mind, I'm very confident I'll be able to modify it at a later date. Just seems the simplest route to take t the present time. There's still a lot of work to do making the standard rear mount for it, then my modified front mounts. I'm going to be working another week of half days I think so the wife can use the 88 to go to work while I'll drop the current tank out, finish off making the new, painting it, and then fitting it up again. I can use the 88 to go to work once she comes home then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 More Pics! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Might be worth looking into baffle foam. Not sure of the price but its good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 More Pics! G. It's coming! I couldn't get 3/8" elbows when I wanted them so I've used 1/2". I've tapped them out a bit and welded in a 1/2" - 3/8" reducer, just going to tap them out tonight then they can be welded on to the rear blanking plate and the top put on. Did a trial fit this morning and I should have allowed a bit more room between them to allow for the larger size, going to be a little tricky to weld between them but they'll be welded inside too so we should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Might be worth looking into baffle foam. Not sure of the price but its good stuff There used to be a stainless mesh available for baffling tanks (used it on Rally Escorts in the early 80's), but for the love of me I cannot remember where we got it from, although Demon Tweeks springs to mind.....: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-tank-baffles/atl-fuel-tank-baffle-foam OR http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-tank-baffles/demon-tweeks-easy-pour-fuel-tank-baffle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 Just looking towards the extending of the lift pipe. I've got some copper pipe, but I've just remember that copper and brass can behave in funny ways in the presence of veg oil and bio, perhaps not the best thing for me to put in then. I can get steel tube that's no problem, but what about the silver solder I was going to use to join the two, does anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.