Nigelw Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 In a quandry, after the weekend altering my rear quarter panels and testing the flexion of my inner front wings on the axle twisters at Budel, I set to thinking about my best course of action? 1. 2 inch body lift to clear the body away from the already (in my opinion) big enough tyres. 2. 2 inch suspension lift with height limiting bump stops. Been mulling over the pro's and con's of each in turn but can't seem to find a big enough advantage to choose one over the other. I must admit that it was an eye opener to see that the most popular tyre height was 35" on most vehicles, the coopers stand a shade under 32" but there were a few of the big rig wranglers running 37s . Much of the courses were built up with these larger tyre sizes in mind and this gave fairly standard trucks like mine a real pasting, the little zooks had many a body work altering session or a near death experience of a corner of their car disapearing into the abyss of a hole infront of them. who's done what and why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I know what you mean about 'tracks', I had an sj with 28" tyres and went to frickley a couple of times and spend most of it sat on the diffs as the place was that rutted by bigger tyres I was wasting my time. My current tyres are 36.5", I have a suspension lift which I would guess is about +3" on the springs. The advantage being your also lifting the chassis and bumpers to improve approach and break over angles. I don't want to go any higher on springs for fear of problems with props, axle and joint angles etc. I don't like the idea of a body lift as I think to do so purely for tyre clearance is not a good enough reason to raise the cog. Also I'd have to alter the bumpers, rock sliders, cage etc. So to get the tyres to fit I chopped the inner arches, lengthened them and flared them out. I also chopped the doors and filled with plate and hugely trimmed the outer arches. Ok it's more work but it's basically free to do apart from a bit of tin and paint. I fitted 31" special tracks with just a 2" spring lift and a bit of outer arch trimming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I've 33x10.5 on my RRC, which is pretty similar, no body lift, though once I went from 32 to 33 I sorta wish I had done it an inch, but having built a roll cage around the body it would be LOADS of work for extra gain. I have 2" lift, extended bump stops, longer shocks, rear arches cut away on the outer edge so thin you can almost read through it, and front arches folded back under themselves again, and carefully* rolled outwards to cover the tyre, as with the offset of the wheels they are barely covered. I'm bit of a stickler for how I want something to look, and I did NOT want extended arches on it. *carefully = beaten with a hammer, many times, albeit slightly less hard than usual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Rear bumper is not built but the card board can have extra taped on No cage yet! I will be adding a suspension lift but it will be no more than 2", I was thinking more that a body lift would or at least could double my gain even fitted early? It allows wheel clearances now for current wheels and also, if and when a suspension lift comes I don't have to fit extended bump stops and can let the wheel travel fully in the arches. Was looking at some 35" tyres today, maxxis treps ♡♡♡ The more I think about this the further away from any sort of answer I'm getting..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Think you are at the point of deciding for good what your truck will be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 You can keep standard bump stops providing your shock and shock mountcombination will allow that much up movement. Also assuming the chosen spring will physically allow it as well as all the joints... My body was chopped a lot but I'd rather do this than a body lift. Obviously doesn't work so well if you keen on your interior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Extended bump stops were to stop the front wheels from bending the top of the inner arches upwards any more, I already have a kink in the tiny bit of strengthening running along the top of the inner wing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 bodylifts are designed by people who are too lazy to cut the wheelarches. They are of very little use, as you chassis stays the same height. I lowered my body to reduce cof g and kept cutting the wheelarches untill the wheel fitted at full bump. extended bump stops (and shock droppers) are of similar use to a bodylift and in my opinion the work of the devil, for obvious reasons. A previous post, the one about what you actually want from your car is valid here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I'm with Daan, I vote cut the body to fit the tyres and terrain Also, you need to be serious about evaluating what use your car will have - you've been driving it for two years with no complaints and now two days of off roading makes you want to fit 35's and a body lift. Do you really need to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Wasn't laziness that made me fit extended bump stops, was the silly idea of fitting 33's (which actually measure more like 34"), wanting to retain only a 2" lift, and to still retain the RRC lines. It works for me, does what I want, and more capable than I need, so each to their own I guess. One thing to note, lifting, dropping and chopping is pretty different on a Disco/RRC compared to a Series or Defender.... especially if you want to keep 5 or even 7 seats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Body lifting is far far easier on a disco or RRC than it is on a defender! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Agreed! Until you already have a roll cage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Just need an angle grinder and some 4x2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Daan, I see your point but for me, the Disco needs to stay full bodied, trimming or rear arches at most!!! The ability to swap out nut and bolt parts to get back to standard a priority, I have no idea which EU county is next but some get tetchy over little things, no need to give scrutineers something glaringly obvious to find fault with. The one car needs to do absolutely everything from groceries to mud plugging, in this particular EU county I simply cannot afford 300E/month tax and insurance + diesel for one toy and half as much again just to have a eurobox burger bakkie +fuel(remember I am not in the UK, you pay for a whole year what I pay per month on road tax, and insurance is incredible, 5X what I paid previously in the UK for higher spec vehicles!) Lewis, the Land Rover dominates the UK offroad scene, something I used be quite into from mid 90s to 07ish, here, unless you go for LR club events, then I have honestly found Land Rovers to be minority vehicles, especially people driving full bodied RRCs and Discoveries, like I said in a post in my members vehicles thread, 35" tyres seem to have become the norm and events, courses etc, are built to suit those size tyres. Yes after 2 happy years driving with minimal complaints and several days off roading, green lanes to pay and play days I was mostly happy with the Disco, still am, but I am also recognizing that I want to participate more in the heavier terrain rather than just watch, a great many Defs here run the same size tyres but with suspension lifts, not that many folk bother with Disco's here as they simply cost too much as toys, Belgium is a country where they are abused as commercial vehicle tax is cheap, also some are now turning 25 so get old timer status so even cheaper!!! In Holland unlike the UK a full bodied RRC or Discovery is not a vehicle of choice for offroading, they cost too much to keep on the road and export value is 10X scrap/parting it out in terms of hassles! Defs around here are driven off road but I do more daring tracks in a diesel fiesta than some of them Besides, if you can afford a Def around here you are most likely to polish it every Sunday than off road it, new prices are tripple that in the UK and second hand prices for good clean ones will surpass new prices when the stop is finalized. Oh and no, for as much as I see the 35" treps and think YUMM!!!! In reality I can't justify spending 3000E on diffs etc to enable fitting them! Food for thought though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Whilst I agree with daan/lewis on a series/90 on a disco the gains from a simple 2" suspension lift out weigh the negatives. Yes cog is worse but most everything else is improved. Body lift is point less approach, ramp brake over and departure angles do not change plus cog is worse so the only gain is tyre clearance. At the end of the day it's a daily driver not a challenge truck. Just my 2 pence worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 I only 245/75's on my Disco. I run a front locker and decent springs on the rear. I avoid the ruts made by people with bigger tyres. I find ways round or straddle. Or pick a different route. The bulk of folk with bigger tyres tend to cut out deeper ruts due to overly high gearing. So the options are: Run with the crowd - build a vehicle with 35's and take the issues on the chin Build a toy to run with the crowd Make your own way Or do what I'm doing and do 1 and 2 My Disco is just too good for fooling off road. It's a travel vehicle. So having inherited an ex HOFS built Auverland A3, I'm sorting all the crappy/bodged bits and running that for play... all on the super cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 I find the biggest ruts tend to be at the top of a hill where people start scrattig when they belly out. The problem with straddling here is if your back end slips and walks around you end up with the back wheels in one rut and front in the other and stuck sideways on the hill. I run a play thing, it suits me as no tax, mot or insurance reduce your costs and give you more freedom on the day as your less concerned about how your going to get home. There are pitfalls though, your restricted where you can go and what you do and you have the added cost and space requirements of a trailer and big tow car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Don't forget that you can't just raise the suspension or the body mounts on their own. You will need to plan your orange beacons very carefully, getting them balanced is critical although additional multiple front spot lamps will be useful in setting the equilibrium. Additional off road driving aids such as 'one life, live it' stickers, rigger boots and camouflage trousers may be required. ? HTH Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Mo, you forgot the most essential item for all hard core off roading - the LED light Bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 LED light bars are for the posh folk. The rest of us just have to badly paint our truck fluorescent colours to be seen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Blimey, must dasy to "amber beacons "R" us" and get me hooked up, along with LED lightning rods for them 50" mega bars with 5 billion lumen on a cigar lighter plug. Serious question, are go faster stripes back in fashion yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 No. However, ''If you can read this roll me back over'' and ''You can go fast but I can go anywhere'' stickers are a suitable substitute. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I always thought a bonnet pod was a subtle yet effective styling modification. And don't forget if you can't afford uprated parts then simply painting the stock ones an offensive colour improves performance. In the words of the fast show... "let's offroad!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I recon an old armoured fluorescent tube and holder would do the trick. Paint it black - then wire it to an inverter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Rolling Stones ? ... I'll get me coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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