Allowance for in cab winch wiring

[WesBrooks]

Hello all,

I'm currently planning my dash and wiring layout. I'm planning an enable and in/out switch for the winch. Would they be unusable if they were momentary switches? Anything else that might be worth considering other than an internal cab mounted isolator and remote socket?

I realise that the motor feeds will require some substantial cabling.

Thanks,

Welsey.

[honitonhobbit]

in and out and in needs to be momentary, enable needs to be a standard on and off - it just needs to impede the on/off/on but can be wired to a single HD solenoid permanent live shut off (a' la Warn) but it needs to be a big mother of a solenoid if you intend on using it for emergencies

[Cynic-al]

I had an on-off-on switch on the dash which selected if the inside or outside controls were to be used which a lot of people consider to be over the top but I didn't want the risk of a cross connection. A momentary on-off-on on the dash for winch in/out (although i wish I had put this either near the gearstick / handbrake for easy reach or near the window for if your trying to look at your wheels whilst winching. There was a similar switch on the grill. Then next to each switch there was a red light to indicate that switch was live and a green light to indicate that the winch should be doing something. I then put an isolator near the winch, I couldn't decide if this should be on dash, near winch or both so went for near winch as I figured it could be a panic thing if your winching in from the cab and someone gets their hand in the winch? Later I swapped this isolator for a big anderson connector with a loop of wire between the terminals as the isolators kept getting full of mud.

All the switches illuminated with the side lights although I guess a red light on the dash could achieve the same thing.

Over the top? Probably

Where are you mounting fuses?

[WesBrooks]

I've thought about the fuses a fair bit. I'm considering a 200A fuse and will see what I can get for that. That's a touch under 2.4kW all day or 3.2hp in old money. I'm not planning on doing winch challenges, just using it for self recovery while green laning or pay and play. If I get a winch close to that then a blown fuse will be a good sign that a block is needed!

I'm more in favour of the overkill approach myself too, particually when the seperation of potentially huge fault currents and petrol aren't measured in meters!

[edit] Potentially miss read there. Where? I'm building the dash from scratch so will burry the fuses inside the cab, but easy to get too if need be. Batteries are likely to be in the rear tray just forward of the rear arches.

[honitonhobbit]

What winch are you using?

[honitonhobbit]

Only ask because some winches draw over 400amps prior to stall

[Cynic-al]

Yes sorry I didn't mean a fuse on the winch, rather where are you going to mount all your related fuses if your building a new dash. I put mine under the bonnet which was a huge mistake and ended up moving them into the cabin. I don't know how tidy you want the car to look but the easier to get at the better for me

[simonr]

Although it seems a bit expensive perhaps, Here is what I use as an isolator.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TE-CONNECTIVITY-KILOVAC-EV200AAANA-RELAY-/301839864344?hash=item46470ed218:g:xqwAAOSwymxVN2gB

The key thing about vacuum contactors is they are guaranteed to disconnect at least once under full load (500A). In practice they will do it many times, but only guarantee once.

It's highly likely with an ordinary contactor that when the contacts open, the electricity will arc between them, melting and likely welding them together. This gets more likely the higher the current.

I wanted something that I could rely on if, for example I was tangled up in the cable and the main contactor had jammed.

Si

[GW8IZR]

You have probably already thought this out but I wouldn't bring anything but control wires into the cab - put the isolator and fuses as close to the battery as practical and if you are using the isolator as an emergency stop ( I always include that function ) you can operate it with a Bowden cable from anywhere you need to reach it.

Reading through the numerous forums I see far too many unprotected high current cables brought into the cab area of vehicles, often through unprotected holes in conducting panels, much like the trend of fitting un switched Anderson jump lead connectors on the seat box - frightening.

HTH

[WesBrooks]

Not picked yet, currently just working on a big spec sheet for the loom and was on the picking switches stage! I was running from memory. Looks like the fuse will need to be about 400-500A. The winch may not get bought until sometime after the truck is on the road but wanted to plan for it.

I'll be looking for a pull of twice vehicle weight. I'm reasonably sure my build will be less than 2000kg, so this puts it in the 8,000 - 10,000lbs territory. I've seen series wond motors are preferred. Weather proof would be a bonus.

I don't want to get into high performance winch trials style kits (think they're on hydrualics now aren't they?) so recomendations for makes that don't break the bank but are reliable would be well recieved!

[WesBrooks]

Got a few replys while typing there! Thanks for the link for the contactor, that looks perfect.

I'm hoping to have very minimal unprotected cabling. I've seen some fuses that are integral to the terminals which look near ideal. I seem to remember thinking fuse discrimination between the battery and winch fuse would be iffy.

[elbekko]

Although it seems a bit expensive perhaps, Here is what I use as an isolator.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TE-CONNECTIVITY-KILOVAC-EV200AAANA-RELAY-/301839864344?hash=item46470ed218:g:xqwAAOSwymxVN2gB

The key thing about vacuum contactors is they are guaranteed to disconnect at least once under full load (500A). In practice they will do it many times, but only guarantee once.

It's highly likely with an ordinary contactor that when the contacts open, the electricity will arc between them, melting and likely welding them together. This gets more likely the higher the current.

I wanted something that I could rely on if, for example I was tangled up in the cable and the main contactor had jammed.

Si

That looks like an excellent solution for a remote cut-off switch. Will need to keep it in mind!

[simonr]

That looks like an excellent solution for a remote cut-off switch. Will need to keep it in mind!

They are usually a lot cheaper from the US. I bought a job-lot of them from there - and the whole lot including shipping cost about the same as one full price in the UK.

[Cynic-al]

I found my champion tds was very reliable for the money (I paid under 300). Obviously you can't get that from champion (warrior) now but it's the same as the good winch. Not the fastest but it always worked despite being under water several times. I stripped it for the first time after 5 years and the grease was very clean, looked a little bit immulsified but no dirt in there. You can get parts and upgrades as you go along if you need to.

[WesBrooks]

Thanks again for the information and links. Any more make recommendation will be greatly received. Now onto my lighting question in a new thread!

[honitonhobbit]

I would second the TDS Goldfish/Champion Warrior as being a good buy. They aren't fool-proof, but near enough. Parts are readily available. Very efficient motors as well. I wouldn't bother with a bow motor 2 upgrade - it's good but then so is the standard. The 12k is worth a look. It's just a 9.5 with lower gearing, so much less strain.

T Max are okay, although spares are not so easy to find. Also it has an internal brake

S/h I would also look at the Superwinch EP9 and EP9i - like a lighter weight TDS but still strong and simple

[Anderzander]

Can I piggyback a question - where do folk buy their 35 mm^2 cable from ?

I want to re do some of the wiring on mine and I'm aware that some cable is more flexible than other.

[Jon White]

35mm welding earth cable is what you want, from your local welding supplies place. This the rubberised really flexible stuff that is a lot more abrasion resistant than standard cable.

Jon

[western]

instead of having in cab switches & associated wiring, why not go for a Lodar radio remote, can be used inside & outside,

http://www.lodar.com/webfiles/w11%200%2000.05.pdf

the full catalogue http://www.lodar.com/catalogues/LodarCatalogue2014_English.pdf

for my Husky winch, outside there are 2 of the standard remote wander lead sockets & also fitted the earlier Lodar 8000 radio remote, I tend to ust that most of the time.

[Anderzander]

Thanks Jon ?