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Is it running ok or overheating?


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I had an issue with my converted 200tdi.

basically aux belt snapped but I stupidly drove it home.

head cracked between 3-4 and 5-6 valves. So fitted another head.

after fitting the head I fitted the following:


-airtex water pump fitted
-genuine LR stat 
-new radiator
-TIM electric temp gauge
-full system drain including block. Back washed with hose until clear
-just water in the system no coolant.

17 mile run which was 10 miles country roads, 3 miles urban roads, 4 miles bypass at 70mph

at idle for 45 mins sat at 70 degrees
On a run pretty quick to 90 degrees then for rest of journey it sat at 95-98 degrees. Tim gauge goes from 80-100 and it never reach 100 it was just under it.
Popped bonnet and rocker is very hot, top hoses are hot but a can hold just. Top of rad is hot, bottom is cool, bottom hose is like warm / cool.

Slowly opened expansion tank and water erupted so closed quickly. Hoses are hard, really hard actually.

So what do we think??

Is it all good

 
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Anyone who can help on this, I only have a week until I'm meant to be away in it and it just doesn't seem right.

wondering if problems are still with head gasket and the head. It was straight and no visible cracks, but could it be cracked internally?

i don't know the history on the head it was an eBay purchase

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Latest update:
20 mile run from cold
2.5 mile - 70 degrees
3.5 mile - 80
4.5 mile - 90

Rest of journey 90-98 but mainly around 95 degrees I would say.

Pressure in bottom and top hoses where if I squeeze as hard as I can I can half squish it if that makes sense.
Heater runs hot and would say when I put it on engine temp went up a degree or 2.

After returning 20 mins to cool turned off, still pressure in pipes. Opened expansion tank and pressure and out but water did not erupt and pipes are soft. No oil in water that I can see and no water in oil.

 
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Kenlowe electric. It wasn't coming on though but it was sensor wired and I think the sensor wasn't working as I took it out of the top hose and put it in boiling water and it still didn't come on. Plan to wire it onto a manual switch in next day or two. 

Sonas it stands... No fan 

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Where is the temp sensor? After engine or before. If its after engine then 'higher' temps are expected as the coolant is doing its cooling job and removing heat from the engine. If its the temp going INTO the engine then that points to the radiator not functioning correctly as the coolant should have shed a load of heat on its journey through.

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I've put in two gauges/sensors on the system, one each side of the radiator. On the 'before' side its running around 85-90 deg, and on the after side has dropped to 70 or so. Lots of variables to consider, but on long steady runs the out (of engine) temp sits around 87 and the in temp around 80, with occasional drops to 70. No idea whether this is good bad or indifferent, but its steady.

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you really need to get some coolant in there. the hot water on its own will be attacking everything at a fast pace. Have you washed out the radiator since you back washed the engine. there is a chance you washed something into the radiator and blocked parts of it.

 

 

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It still seems pretty consistent. I fully washed all before fitting rad including removing block drain plug and washing block. I will wash all again before I add coolant again which I will do tomorrow.

there are no cold spots on rad

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antifreeze/summer coolant .stops the engine freezing in the winter and stops it overheating in the summer.  so if youre still running tap water. i'd refill the system with the correct mixture and do the checks again. waters boiling point is different under pressure. as we all know boiling point at atmosphere is 100'c but different at different pressures.

 

 

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15 hours ago, stephencdavies said:

antifreeze/summer coolant .stops the engine freezing in the winter and stops it overheating in the summer.  so if youre still running tap water. i'd refill the system with the correct mixture and do the checks again. waters boiling point is different under pressure. as we all know boiling point at atmosphere is 100'c but different at different pressures.

 

 

I think you are wrong there, pure clean water will conduct heat better than a glycol mix, though if water wetting agents have been added then maybe the anti freeze mix is better.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html

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Just pure water, when my fan ties arrive I will drain it and put in a 50/50 mix, attach the electric fan to a manual switch and try again.

 

ill report back. Swaying more to just going for it and praying that it's ok.

the main thing that concerns me is the hose pressure, they are hard, when I squeeze hard I can't fully compress the hose, only about half compress 

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The rad pressure cap could be as high as 1 bar (1 kg per sq cm or 15psi in old money) so the cooling system is really a pressure cooker which is why it boils as soon as you release the cap and equally why the hoses are hard.

My 200tdi does similar things to yours but generaly only with a loaded trailer on the back.

Best of luck.

David

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Sounds like a happy 200tdi to me... My coolant runs at a steady 90 degrees when cruising around 50-55, when oil is up to temp 80-90 degrees, the engine will generally keep itself above 85 degrees when tootling at 30mph between traffic lights etc.

The system is designed in such away that when the water gets near boiling the system keeps in the pressure, with an increased pressure the boiling point of water is increased (physics) - what someone has already brushed up already.

You want to start to worry when the engine is mega hot and the pipes are soft. - if you've no antifreeze in there too you might find its pressurising the system a little more than usual as the anti freeze also has a similar effect in reducing the boiling point of water by itself.

On the black reservoir tanks there is a small relief valve that goes at around 1 bar (as per manual).

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