Souster Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 As some of you may already know, I've had a front leaky crank seal on my 300tdi. Anyway I seem to have rectified that now with a new seal and belt just incase. I'm just wondering if having the engine oil about 5mm above the max marker on the dipstick (not ideak i know) would cause the seals to leak. I'm using castrol gtx 15w/40 and since changing the oil about 800mls ago the engine seems to have more leaks. I just don't want to go through all that work again if it is over filled and causing it. Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Where is it leaking from now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Just so you know, when that first seal leaks, it's doing so to tell you that the rest need done also, 5mm not ideal but won't do incredible harm either! Get a list of all seals and gaskets and change them all one by one, they are all about ready, the first one leaking said so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Mine frequently end up overfilled by about that much, never done it any harm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Don't overfill it Josh, just check it regularly and top up as required. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 I've cured the crank seal on the front. But there is another leak which I'm not quite sure where it's coming from, but it all fairness it's all ways been there. However seems worse with the castrol gtx. I don't generally over fill them. But this time unfortunately I did. Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 The oil leak, Front ? Rear ? Side? And it's better to have the oil level fractionally below the fill line rather than above. That said all you risk by seriously over filling the sump is the crank hitting the oil and causing it to foam, and at only 5mm above the line that wont happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 5mm above max will do no damage at all. There's loads of room in the sump with the correct amount in. Don't push your luck though, as excessive amounts of engine oil can cause serious damage. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 are you sure it's an oil leak, or a factory installed anti corrosion feature . P.S Land Rover's don't leak they just mark their territory. Besides if it's still leaking there must be some oil in it, init. Coat.......Door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Cheers boydie Les and Pete hahaa. I'm glad it won't have caused any damage. Even so I'm going to drop some out just incase. I think the other leak maybe the sump boydie, all though I'm not sure. Going to have a proper look tomorrow and maybe drop the sump off and run some RTV silicon round it. It's generally a very dry land rover -shock , and there is oil in everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 The works composite gasket is far better than using silicon, if only because it makes it 100% easier to remove it next time. The only thing you need to confirm is that your sump pan is totally flat on the joint face, if its even slightly distorted the gasket wont seal it fully. My bet is the oil leak will be coming out of the vacuum pump discharge poppet valve welch plug and leaking down the RH side of the engine block. Incidentally Pete, my 300TDi engine / R380 gearbox mustn't be a "proper" Land Rover, it's not leaked a drop since I rebuilt it and replaced the fuel lift pump and vacuum pumps with reliable electric items, Oh, and since I made my own proper cyclone oil separator to replace the pathetic plastic thing the intercooler is almost oil film free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 I took some pictures this morning of the oil leak. Im pretty certain its not coming from the vacuum pump. However the side of the engine is that gunked with years and years of oil and dirt it looks like tarmac. Im not totally convinced its the sump, but it still could be, Where my finger is pointing in some of the pictures bellow is where the oil seems to end up. Any one got any ideas? http://s905.photobucket.com/user/souster4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150501_115346.jpg.html?o=0 http://s905.photobucket.com/user/souster4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150501_115309.jpg.html?o=1 http://s905.photobucket.com/user/souster4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150501_115239.jpg.html?o=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Looks like the oil filter flange, or further up to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Clean it all off (buy a gallon of brake cleaner + trigger spray bottle) then look for the highest point that's getting oily, the draught in an engine bay when driving can fling oil all round the place but gravity is pretty reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Egads Souster, how can you live with yourself ! Get that engine cleaned off. Spend a few bucks, get a few aerosol cans of GOOD commercial degreaser and beg, borrow or hire a hot water pressure cleaner and get the engine block clean and back to bare metal. Its more effective if the engine is hot, but with that amount of external insulation I don't see that as being much of a problem. You might also consider cleaning off the gearbox and transfer boxes off at the same time, I'd advise you purchase some pairs of disposable overalls from your local hardware store - 'cos boy are you going to get down & dirty. Once you have all the crud and carp off it locating the oil leak will be easy, I still think its coming from the vacuum pump but I'd be amazed if you could locate anything with the engine in that state. Oh, and you're grounded for a month ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 Hahaha cheers Boydie. I thought it would keep the engine warm and protect it from rust . I'll have to get off this naughty step and get some degreaser on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 As the others have said - get it clean. I've had very good results with domestic kitchen degreaser products and a cheap cold water pressure washer. I used to use fairy powerspray, but it's expensive so now I'm using Aldi kitchen degreaser, it's the one in the Orange bottle. Get yourself a couple of bottles, spray it on and let it do its stuff, wait five minutes, pressure wash it off, and repeat as necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Boydie said - Oh, and since I made my own proper cyclone oil separator to replace the pathetic plastic thing the intercooler is almost oil film free. This is something I have on my to-do list as I agree the plastic one isnt great. Do you have details please? I had thought about a catch tank system but can see no reason why a cyclonic setup with a slightly bigger volume wouldnt be enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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