Bowie69

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About Bowie69

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    Permanently befuddled......
  • Birthday 10/05/1976

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    Wedmore, Somerset

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  1. If you ring David at llama he will know what he supplied, he tends to stick that sort of thing in a little notebook
  2. Yep well done, you can join the club of 'I have a GKN overdrive on the shelf' now.
  3. Combustion chamber is much warmer, which is the important thing. I would still give it more ASE and then test over next few days. See what happens. Increase figures in ASE table by 30% and see what happens.
  4. Yep, just knocked off , so I don't slice my hands when getting injector plugs on.
  5. Yeah, quarter inch. I ground a flat blade screwdriver down a mm or so, and use that, fits lovely
  6. What was broken in the diff? Transfer box in neutral? How did you break it?
  7. That's a great link red90!
  8. No, other way It opens a bypass round the throttle plate
  9. Yeah I think the castings are quite variable
  10. One of the things you do when setting up the engine for the first time on MS (and actually on hotwire/Lucas) is set the base idle. You do this by slackening the throttle cable so the throttle plate seals properly, and blocking both hoses going to the ISV. Set the idle speed to around 650 hot using the above grub screw Then you set the idle speed with the ISV using the idle settings in software
  11. Just depends what gear you are in, the governor does the rest
  12. I think I just left the plate in place,... with the pipes knocked off
  13. And one of your WUE table now.... (warm up enrichment )
  14. Yup The one I have been telling you to tweak for 3 pages now
  15. That 37 in your VE table, change to 41, a hole like this in your fuelling can wreak havoc. Around idle you want all the same fuelling, no more than 1 or two different per cell. Do you have a fuel pressure sender???? If not then the figures you suggest are just spurious, and can be ignored. To be honest with you, I would kill the closed loop idle control, you do NOT need it, and believe it to be complicating things for you, a LOT. It can mask the true problem by trying to fix a bad idle, when actually what you need to do is get it idling properly without any crutches from cold, then in the future, if you feel you need it, go closed loop. I don't tend to do closed loop any more, way too much hassle, and can get a perfectly good smooth idle, which reacts properly to load changes such as fans/AC/auto box engagement without the idle valve doing anything. So to go back to basics, I would change your closed loop to 'warmup only' and then open your idle valve to 45 DC for cranking as you have above. This simplifies everything.... if you have too many variables going on, you WILL start chasing your tail. Looking at your graph, the engine is definitely leaning out as it comes down from the surge after starting. Can you post a pic of your ASE table to compare please?