reb78 Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I'm just about to start reconditioning a set of calipers that i have. I want to use stainless pistons and, ideally, a genuine seal kit. Where have you guys bought stainless pistons from? I've found here: http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Brakes/Discs,Calipers-&-Drums/stc1280st-c-piston-repair-kit-stainless.html They also sell the pistons singly for £8 each. They also supply the rubber washers that go between the caliper halves. Are the stainless pistons worth using? Would you use the seals provided above, or go for genuine. Now, i've read Les's thread for a caliper rebuild ( http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2851 )and plan to do more or less the same, but just have a few questions: 1. Would i be best off painting the caliper before i remove the old seals and pistons? 2. Woud petrol be ok to clean off the grease and flush the inside of the caliper through to get any carp out? (or would you use something else?) 3. I'm sure i've read about a special grease to lube the pistons up with before putting them in. Do you use that on the bore before fitting the new seals? 4. Did anyone ever confirm the torque figures in the rebuild thread for the bolts that hold the caliper together? (how likely are these bolts to shear when i'm undoing them?!) I'll use threadlock on these when i do them up as in the thread. Sorry, there are loads of questions there!! TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Reb, I bought mine from here: http://www.zeus.uk.com/land-rover.php and so far they've been excellent-I bought them about 6 years ago, they also supplied the seal kit-which was a genuine kit from what I remember for the upgrade too, I did'nt split my callipers but i did have as we all do a problem with the metal retaining ring for the outer dust seal which made me buy another seal kit to replace the damaged ring HTH John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 3. I'm sure i've read about a special grease to lube the pistons up with before putting them in. Do you use that on the bore before fitting the new seals? you can get Castrol red brake grease in tubs from ebay or a good motor factors. you will need these too, seals caliper body fluid channel 17H8764L 2 per caliper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I'm just about to start reconditioning a set of calipers that i have. I want to use stainless pistons and, ideally, a genuine seal kit. Where have you guys bought stainless pistons from? I've found here: http://www.shop4auto...-stainless.html Paddocks do them for 7 quid a pop plus VAT. Here. OEM seal kit is here. They also sell the pistons singly for £8 each. They also supply the rubber washers that go between the caliper halves. Are the stainless pistons worth using? Yes. Would you use the seals provided above, or go for genuine. OEM will be fine. Don't go for Britpart (they are extremely difficult to fit if they are not exactly the right size, not Britpart's strong point). Now, i've read Les's thread for a caliper rebuild ( http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=2851 )and plan to do more or less the same, but just have a few questions: 1. Would i be best off painting the caliper before i remove the old seals and pistons? No, you'll have no chance of extracting the old seals and pistons without damaging the paint, and the brake fluid which leaks will probably take the paint off. 2. Woud petrol be ok to clean off the grease and flush the inside of the caliper through to get any carp out? (or would you use something else?) I'd use brake cleaner (the clue is in the name!). Much nicer to work with than petrol. Either way, wear rubber gloves - none of these solvents are good for your skin. 3. I'm sure i've read about a special grease to lube the pistons up with before putting them in. Do you use that on the bore before fitting the new seals? You need to use the special red grease which is formulated to not attack the rubber in the seals. DO NOT use mineral oil grease. Smear a bit on the seals and the pistons will go in a lot easier. 4. Did anyone ever confirm the torque figures in the rebuild thread for the bolts that hold the caliper together? (how likely are these bolts to shear when i'm undoing them?!) I'll use threadlock on these when i do them up as in the thread. I'm not sure this number is quoted because you're not supposed to split the calliper. Well tight, with thread lock, should be fine. It's not rocket science. You are unlikely to shear them - they are fine thread high tensile bolts and the threads don't generally rust. Your bigger problem may be avoiding damaging the heads - they can be a bugger to get undone if the hexagon have rounded corners. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Thanks to you all. Very useful. I'll get a price off of Zeus tomorrow (i drove past Honiton last week!) and then decide from there. I may try not splitting the caliper and flush the insides out with brake cleaner (provided that wont damage the gallery seal in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I'm just about to start reconditioning a set of calipers that i have. I want to use stainless pistons and, ideally, a genuine seal kit. Where have you guys bought stainless pistons from? I've found here: http://www.shop4auto...-stainless.html I bought my pistons from them and they're good. I also got genuine seal kits separately. The story of the seals is here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71627. I split the calipers also and used their gallery seals and red rubber grease. I've heard you shouldn't use petroleum based products/degreasers and should only use brake cleaner(!) or meths on any part of the braking system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
task Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I used Zeus pistons when I rebuilt the calipers on the CSK, good quality. Hasn't really been on the road long enough to tell how long they last but I do know that genuine seals are the only way to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I went for Zeus as well. On the dust seals I filed a slight lead on the sharp edge to help. I didn't split mine, but it is wise to free the old pistons using the car brake system first. Then air pressure will pop them out. But be carefull as it is a finger trapper and the air aerosols the oil ! I wouldn't do anything to the old calipers finish wise until you are sure they are good enough to take new seals. My old ones were rotted out at the dust seal seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Ref the seals, I've used Britpart, which were utterly useless and frankly don't fit, Bearmach, which are better and can go in ok but take a bit of care (filing the edge of the seal retainers a tad as above helps), and Genuine Land Rover which always seem to go in nicely - definitely worth paying the few bob extra for genuine. It's very easy to damage the outer seal retainer, especially once you've done a few and get cocky, so might be an idea to order an extra seal kit. I get the pistons out using a tmax tyre inflator - take the valve head off and then just put the rubber hose over a bleed nipple - hit the switch and mind your fingers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 The trick to getting the dust seal rings in first go is explained here. I generally use AP/Locheed seals, it is they who make the callipers for LR. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Another vote for the Zeus pistons. Been in the Discovery calipers for over 10 years and no sticking brakes at all. Definately worth the effort. I also machined a tool for pressing home the seal retaining ring (and split the calipers to do it, makes things much easier) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Just ordered the pistons from Zeus. ~£15 cheaper than if i were to buy them from my original link above too. Will let you know how the swap goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 I cant understand why LR say not to split the calipers. I was cleaning a secondhand (unknown history to me) one up tonight that i was going to refurb to replace the ones on the 110 and i couldnt get the brake cleaner to flow from the bottom of the caliper on one side through the gallery between the halves to the other side. I split it and the channel between the caliper halves was full of black rubber goo and completely blocked! If i'd not looked that closely and replaced the seals and pistons, i doubt the brakes would have worked properly and there was no way i was able to clear it without splitting the caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I think that it is general advice, not just Landrover. If LR do say not to split callipers then it will be because AP Locheed tell them that, as it is APL who make the callipers and will have done all the design and testing work for LR. No doubt someone better qualified than me gives the advice! My best guess would be that not all callipers are as easy to get back together right as LR ones, and that unqualified* personnel may not realise that they have not got it right, potentially causing an accident. I guess that finding the calliper gallery blocked is one good reason why reconditioning should be carried out by suitably qualified* personnel. ...and if someone were to be so slap-dash as to miss something like that then would you want to ride in a car where that person had split and rebuilt that calliper??! * - I use the terms qualified and unqualified to refer more to competent and/or experienced persons as opposed only to formally trained and certificated persons. I aspire to being the former. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 I think that it is general advice, not just Landrover. If LR do say not to split callipers then it will be because AP Locheed tell them that, as it is APL who make the callipers and will have done all the design and testing work for LR. No doubt someone better qualified than me gives the advice! My best guess would be that not all callipers are as easy to get back together right as LR ones, and that unqualified* personnel may not realise that they have not got it right, potentially causing an accident. I guess that finding the calliper gallery blocked is one good reason why reconditioning should be carried out by suitably qualified* personnel. ...and if someone were to be so slap-dash as to miss something like that then would you want to ride in a car where that person had split and rebuilt that calliper??! * - I use the terms qualified and unqualified to refer more to competent and/or experienced persons as opposed only to formally trained and certificated persons. I aspire to being the former. Chris I agree. I could just see it happening too easily though, wipe out the bores, blow out the dust and muck and fit new pistons. I'm anal about this stuff though, hence my perseverence to get the cleaner to flow between the galleries. I ordered new gallery seals last night so i can put the calipers back together knowing there are new seals in there too. I need some sturdy pipe cleaners now to run inside the galleries to make sure the bores are clear of this rubber muck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Back when i was a youngster I did work experience in a motorcycle shop. One day a bloke comes in with a hardtail chop (type of bike) that he had just refurbed the calipers on and it was leaking fluid all over the place and he couldn't work out why..... After a quick check the mechanic asks if he put new gallery seals in (as it was leaking at that joint) ... turned out he hadn't put any in at all when he put the two halves back together. So as Chris said, we're told not to split calipers to protect us from people like that...... As an aside he had also altered the steering by cutting off the headstock and welding it on at a different angle ........ hmmm his welding was like his brake assembly .... and that sir is why IVA etc were introduced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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