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Homemade Defender Dash


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Some time ago I built this out of mdf and covered if with black carpet tile:

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Shape wise it was fine, but the carpet gave it a 70s tacky look!

Having lived with it for a while I decided to make a new face for it. Started with a frame for the top:

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Then plates to cover the top and hold the gauges:

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Painted black and mounted and this was the result:

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The bottom section where the radio is is currently just a thin metal plate folded over the wooden frame, but I'll replace this in a similar style to the top. The very bottom is free at the moment for more switches, an egt gauge and a second fuel gauge when I get round to buying/fitting the associated bits.

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That's very tidy, but for what you have fitted, why did you not stick with the gauges and clock in the lower dash with the stereo in the standard mount? I presume you plan to put a lot more in, given the size of the console, so what are you going to fit?

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Thanks chaps. It was just something to play about with really and give me a bit of practice with the welder and plasma cutter. It wasn't a good use of time really, as it took me days of fiddling to make it! I just kept looking at the raptor dash and it didn't appeal.

If anyone can recommend a hole saw that will cut 52mm holes in metal and work with my pillar drill, that would be helpful. As it was, I had to cut a wooden template at 60mm diameter and then run the plasma cutter round the inside. The actual diameter of the holes in the metal sheet ended up at about 55mm, so the gauges were difficult to get tight and central in there!

Snagger, I plan to add a second fuel tank and it's gauge and an egt gauge, so these will get added to the bottom section. Eventually, I will fit a series seat box in the back and then add a second battery and aux fuse box there. After that I'll add a few other electrical items - heated screen, lights on the side of the vehicle (a bit like Mike has for camping), and these will need switches that will go in the bottom section that is currently blank. I also need to relocate the switch for the rear wash/wiper as that's just hidden away at the moment as the wiper doesn't work.

I might try and squeeze a CB in at some point and also a tablet mount, ipad sized - the structure is sturdy enough that I can use the self tapping screws to attach the frame too.

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Yep low rpm is key , std pillar drills are way too quick , a handheld with low gear and speed

control trigger does the job. Needless to say holding it square to the sheet is also important to

avoid breaking thru on one side of the cut first.

I have snap on and bahco holesaws and they are both good .

nice dash btw

cheers

Steveb

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Rich, I used a nibbler that fits onto my cordless drill, but you need to drill a hole first and need to use 2 hands to guide it, so the steel must be held securely. I got it from Accord Roof Sheets in Kingswinford, about £25 plus p&p.

Tried it on steel and rolled brass and its pretty good and you can guide it to cut pretty intricate shapes. Not as accurate as a tank cutter but I think you could get within 1mm, if this would be close enough.

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I use the bosch powerchange holesaws, used loads of them and cut through 13mm steel with them but they wouldn't do a perfect 52mm hole in thin steel tho, same here low rpm and I use water constantly on them yep not ideal but its cheap and works :)

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