Steve King

I have a 2002 110 TD5. I recently replaced the instrument mounting binnacle for a Raptor one, because the original one was cracked and falling apart. At the same time I replaced the centre switch panel for a Mud Stuff double DIN one. Now it's all back together I have the following issues with the central locking/alarm: The indicators no longer flash when locking/unlocking - changing the fob battery had no affect. With the ignition on there is a constant loud ticking from the front nearside. If you try to lock the vehicle with a door left open, it should beep twice to warn you - it doesn't. Deliberately triggering the alarm sets off a relay somewhere (I can hear it clicking), but there is no siren or horn. I checked all the fuses and found no problems, but to be on the safe side I replaced fuses 6 and 27 with new ones. I have taken my Defender to two garages (the last one was a local independent LR specialist) and despite plugging it in to diagnostic equipment they can't find the problem.

I bought an Optimill Number Plate Light with built in camera and have run the wire from the dash to the camera. I now need to tap into the the reverse light. Seeing that the supplied loom has the wires for the reverse light near the rear, I was thinking of conecting the wire near the reverse light itself. However the wires and rear of the reverse light are tucked away behind a panel in the wheelarch. Would it be better to extend the wire and attach it to the reverse light switch, or do you reckon I should stick to my original plan?

Just received a text from the NHS saying that they have identified me as someone at risk etc. I'm not surprised at that, however they don't even want me to go outside of the 4 walls of my house!! I certainly will not go to shops, but I will go to my garden and garage!

Is anyone planning to spend their time improving or rebuilding their LR or other car(s) whilst "social distancing/self solating"? All of us are in at risk, as my wife is diabetic, I have severe asthma and our 11 year old has complex health issues including heart issues. I've decided to spend a bit of time on my Defender and have a Mud Stuff double DIN switch panel, double DIN head unit and sub-woofer to fit! When that is complete, I'm going to fit a GORE fuel filter housing. When I've finished the Defender, I have a 53 year old Riley to get back on the road!

I'm also looking forward to seeing the Ineos in the flesh. Hopefully it will be more like what we know. Defender to be than LRs replacement! Whether or not the project is commercially viable is a different matter, and sadly I am pessimistic.

Meanwhile in Wales... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-49733291

I read through various legislation and got a headache! i need to transport a partly restored car from Wellington (Somerset, not Shropshire!) to home (Worcs) - it is MOT exempt, but not yet roadworthy! Unless I'm mistaken I am going to have to hire a suitable trailer.

I thought A Frames were only legal to recover a broken down vehicle, not to transport a vehicle.

I've owned very few vehicles compared to most people! Previously I have owned: 1972 Austin 1300 GT Bedford Midi Van (can't remember the age - I've tried to forget this as it was the most unreliable vehicle ever!!) 1996 Defender 300TDI 2006 Ford Fiesta l currently have: 2002 Defender TD5 2012 Ford Fiesta 1968 Riley Kestrel mk1 (currently being restored)

My 2002 TD5 110 Defender has just developed a small weep from the radiator core. I'm going to replace the radiator soon, but I'm amazed at the price difference between suppliers! Is this too cheap? Has anyone tried one of these?

If you can't find a supplier of a connector to fit, then fit a pair of new connectors!!

Try taking the dash apart and look for the connector that plugs into the panel. Check that the connector is fully pushed home and whilst it is apart check the earth connections. Also check the brake light earths.

Clutch master cylinder is useless! It went bang after about 60 miles leaving me stranded in one way system and my lower hlaf was liberally covered with hydraulic fluid!!

These are slim and very bright: https://www.wish.com/product/550bdab43fca100d871162bd

Not that many around now. It was last driven about 30 years ago by me, when a mate who couldn't drive due to MS bought it to restore it. I ended up chipping in on the purchase price and initial restoration costs. Since then things slowed down to Dave moving to Somerset and me moving to Worcestershire, and then sadly Dave's MS returning big time and leaving him totally incapacitated and unable to speak. Some progress has been made and now the Riley is nearly a rolling but non running shell with some interior trim fitted. Sadly Dave passed away late November. Hopefully I'll be able to complete work on it in a few months and bring it home (just need to persuade SWMBO!) It is a good little example of BMC badge engineering at it best!

A Defender garden ornament from my stepson and an IAM course from my wife., Oh, and it appears that I have inherited a MK1 Riley Kestrel (1100 - ADO16)!

After messing about for a few weekends, I replaced the lock assembly and now the door latches and opens really easily.

Land Rover replacement pads are hideously expensive - try Exmoor Trim. Don' t think they sell part sets though, probably still cheaer though!

Partial success! I got bogged down with various other tasks and wasn't able to spend much time on the Defender. However, Eightpot's suggestion of a thin bladed screwdriver worked and the door popped open with the second prod! Owing to fading light, I have locked it again! I will try to spend next Saturday having a good look at the linkeages with the door card off. I suspect from the feel of the locking button that something is out of line or bent.

Mudstuff sell a piggy back wiring loom that makes wiring in the sidelight bulbs in the headlight a doddle! https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-stuff/mud-piggy-back-wiring-loom.html

Thanks for your replies Guys, I will try Eightpot's suggestion and will attempt to open from the inside with a thin flat bladed screwdriver when I get a Chance (waiting for a weekend, owing to a littl'un going to swimming lessons and Brownies etc and dark mornings!) My attempts to remove the door card have failed; I have removed the trim around the locking button, but can only unclip the door card from the top and a little way down.

Thinking about it, I reckon you are correct! I replaced the strikers with X-Eng ones a few years back and I seem to recall the nuts were captive a plate.

I have a 2002 110 hardtop with central locking. The passenger door recently would not close and I had to give it a bit of a slam. The lock now will not open with the remote or from the inside. Interestingly the key does not fit the passenger door either! The key is the ignnition key and this fits the driver's door and rear door without problems. I've tried removing the door card, but can't get very far with this and fishing around in the gap with bits of welding rod and flat strips of metal has achieved nothing. I have a cunning plan however: As it is a hardtop I can see and reach the bolts holding the striker plate: I'm thinking of taking the nuts off the retaining bolts for the striker plate and then cutting them as close as I can to the pillar - hopefully bearing in mind Defender build tolerances the door should open with the striker plate still atached. With the door open, I can then properly remove the door card and sort out whatever is wrong with the actuating rods (or whatever) Whilst I have access to the innards of the door, I'll see if there is any number on the lock barrel and then get a key for the passenger side as I think this would be a lot cheaper than a door barrel!

My drive slopes downwards from the garage - parking my 110 nose facing downwards stops all water ingress whilst parked!

There was a link in our own Tech Archive, but it no longer works! Try this: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/defender-water-ingress-manual.310782/ Happy reading! The windscreen "Blocks" (look like hinges) are a common source of water ingress - a good coating of sealant fixes that quite quickly.