Anderzander

Here’s a picture out of the planar installation manual showing the room it says it needs:

Here is the excellent thread I referred to earlier: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/17756-tubed-and-tubeless-wolf-rims/

Just the same as the tubed rim except for the extra lip to hold the bead in place.

Thanks - that’s helpful. Sounds like applying common sense is the lesson.

At the other end of the scale - I noticed that the planar fitting instructions cite needing 50mm of space at the intake end and 150mm at the outlet end ... but I’ve seen a few air heaters installed in seatboxes where the outlet has the tiniest length of pipe to bring it into the footwell.... what do you think that’s about? Is it to so with how hot the unit itself gets?

I have one more diesel air heater question - what’s the best way to mount the intake so it has some chance of surviving wading?

I thought they could be quite quiet ?

Here’s a set that’s been on eBay for a little while: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152354677668 Not the cheapest - but if you want white they may work out a similar price to blasting and painting a more worn out set.

I’ve recerly bought some late Defender steel wheels, which are tubeless. It was a bit of a hunt to get them - but they are out there and are almost indistinguishable from Series wheels. If you do a search on here there is a thread with pictures of how to identify them, which is really helpful if you’re looking through eBay adverts.

I’ve recerly bought some late Defender steel wheels, which are tubeless. It was a bit of a hunt to get them - but they are out there and are almost indistinguishable from Series wheels. If you do a search on here there is a thread with pictures of how to identify them, which is really helpful if you’re looking through eBay adverts.

Hopefully this is legible .... it was in June 2011.

In the series one club magazine - do you want me to try and photograph it?

My details are still the same online at the moment. After I sent it off with the engine receipt etc I read that vehicles in the historic class don’t need to ... it was something the FBHVC helped bring in.

They’ve had mine over 2 weeks now and no sign of it coming back yet...

No 0 - 100 left to right

65amp - so the needle should be in that comforting position of just past the middle 😊

Riding a motorbike helps.

That’s fantastic news - thank you !

Are the old military Cav Ammeters, which I think are 24v, alright to use on a 12v set up? With my Series 1 being converted to alternator it will put out a lot more than the 30amp ammeter has - I want something period looking and there are quite a few Cav 100amp units about, but I don’t know if they only work in a 24v system.... I’m thinking that Ohms law means it won’t ? As the current is proportional to the voltage?

Shows what I know - I’d just try and start it .. 😱

Just heard my first woodpecker from the woods over the road this morning . Like Mo says though - it’s cold. The ground is frozen despite the warmth from the Sun.

Thanks for your reply 😊 I’d also get a lot from any write ups and photos you have ... ? Maybe you could also join in on the current camping thread and share what kit you use?

Would it increase the stress on the motor? Do they not just spool up a bit quicker making the power curve a bit smoother ?

The engine number isn’t on a plate - it’s stamped into the block..

😂 😂😂😂