Anderzander

I've just replaced the propshaft on the rear of my Td5 90 with FRC 8393, which I think is the 300tdi / R380 one? I had the same dilemma about what make to go from, but found an ex MOD NOS genuine item for sale. It was just over £115 - so about the same as some of the cheaper options .... might be worth exploring if you can find anymore ?

Mine is still running.

(can't resist...) What reputation for reliability is that sorry ? 😊

That's pretty much what the video says - Shared platforms and minimised costs is their direction of travel. It was simply about profit.

This is pretty much my opinion on it:

I've never seen one on the net up and running. The conversions seem to either stall because of the gear lever clash or the instruments, which talk to the puma ECU through CAN I believe? Heres a finished one that used Td5 guages and a Disc3 cubby/gear set up: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/defender-tdci-bulkhead-on-a-300-tdi.269654/

Well crikey ! I've been away a couple of days and had no idea I'd get 2 pages of suggestions ? I have thought about the twin battery route - but I wasn't sure if it wasn't huge overkill for charging a tablet whilst we sleep in a tent .. the other scenario being my 5yo daughter has plugged her tablet in and I've not noticed. Though that's harder to legislate against. What I seem to be taking away is that of my battery is in good nick - I should comfortably be able to charge a phone overnight. A split charge will gurantee I won't have misjudged the health of my battery / the drain of my charging device - but costs a lot more than an external battery pack to charge it ... The other idea was to run a timing relay in there. That sounds interesting - l'll have a look at how that might work. Thank you everyone though - I'll have a read through again and make sure I haven't missed anything.

Would anyone explain the calculations I need to do to see what I could leave plugged into a permanent live 12v feed, before I reach a point of not being able to start? I'm just thinking of leaving phones or an iPad charging in the Land Rover My 90 has the standard battery and I'm tainted by the experience of having run it down a couple of times so it didn't have enough left to crank the starter over. That was mainly traced to a faulty Parrot head unit, where it looked like it was switched off- but the GPS and blue tooth was still working away in the background. Couple that with leaving my side lights on seemed to flatten the batter quite quickly. So, if anyone would take the time to help me make sure I don't end up not being able to start it miles from home ... I'd really appreciate it. ?

As Fridge Freezer would say:

Paul ! Not heard from you for ages ? Thank you all - it's all up and running. I'm very pleased with it.

Thank you - that makes sense! and is hugely helpful. i did think about splitting it from the switch ... but didn't expect the resistance in the coil to be significant. Thank you again - your help is greatly appreciated ?

Here's the standard wiring and here's a sketch of how I've wired it up.. So with the relay in: the circuit with the coil isn't working - but the switches second circuit is.

I wondered if some kind soul could point out where I'm going wrong with something ... I've been attempting to modify the circuit on my Td5, so that the rear washer switch becomes a rear wash/wipe switch using a m 4-pin relay. The washer switch is a momentary live-switching switch, so I've used the live output from this to power a relay, which switches the earth from the rear wiper relay. The plan was that this would replicate the function of the rear wiper switch, which is a latching earth-switching switch. But it's not .... the wash wipe works off the button - but the washer jet doesn't. The relay is switching, and if I pull it out and bridge the wire pairs into it then I can get the washer to work off the button - as I'd expect - and the rear wiper works just from bridging its pair (as it doesn't pass through the switch) - so that works too. I'll post again with wiring diagram pictures...

What do people think of the new show now? I'm enjoying it!

Sorry James - the stud walls?

What sizes screws did you use on the stud work James? I'm going to replace my garage doors with a stud wall and a single door now the weather has turned.

Funny you should say that .... I get quite a few hire cars through work, and the Vauxhall's always put my back out? Even the ones with adjustable lumbar support seem to adjust the wrong spot.

I thought you meant a pre-pro classic - I got all excited !

I'll have a look tonight ??

Mo I fitted a pair of blue/red HD springs to the front of my blue 90 when I fitted a winch - and they were too hard for it. If they are still in the garage - then you are welcome to them to try and keep if they work for you? FOC. Stephen

Retro, would you consider starting a thread with a write up on how you mated that all together? I think it would be of interest and use to people ?

Turbo - do you have a thread with details of what made you go with the Td5 actuator?

9.2kw? You'll be working in your underpants .....

It's heating an area about half your size - but if I was to really stoke it up it would overwhelm it. the pedestal has another advantage - you use less flu pipe :-). I just used building blocks. What is important on a woodburner is that you get good air control. Once it's up to temperature you can slow it right down and really maximise it's efficiency.

with the old gas fire in the background.