Anderzander

I presume you need to match the type? I think the ECU has different settings for early and late model ones, from memory 2 position and 3 position pots?

Quite a complex shape really with the curve and tilt to bring it square. Well done :-)

Debate !!? On a Forum !?? who's heard of such a thing !!

I know some Honda's, Mercedes and Audi's use chain driven oil pumps.

They would have been witness to a terrible scene I fear ...

The one labelled 'fuse box / engine compartment' is the one under the drivers seat. What are you actually trying to do?

looking good.... and I usually put the tools down on a day like that, to avoid wrecking something.

This is the wiring diagram for the '99 to '02 Defenders. Wiring Diagram - Defender td5 (1999).pdf

They fitted different fuse panels depending on the spec of the vehicle.... The sticker on the back of my panel was correct and differed from the various manuals I looked at - and when I looked at parts books there were different part numbers for different stickers. Mine is a 2000 TD5 - what is the spec on yours?

So much good advice here it should probably be an FAQ for 'how to sell your land rover'

Looks like you got a good finish with the sparex I've been using the hammerite rust converter stuff - its white and then reacts with the rust, turning blue and finally finishes up black. It seems really good - even if you leave it with no top coat it'll still seem to last for going on a year. So I've been having a roll around underneath finding the corners and crevices. I've also used Owatrol oil - in some places as a neat paint over - though it's easiest to use as a thinners in paint. Its very satisfying work.

The point must be that it's departure angle improves without the overhang.

Great - post up some photos of the engine bay spruce up if you will

Found it ! ....and surprisingly it was the spring plates on both sides of the front axle being loose .... There was no play to be felt by hand, but all four bolts were all quite loose when checked with a spanner. The symptoms was a loud clunk/thunk that from inside: sounded like it was from around the transfer box - and from outside: a noise that was hard to trace except to say that it sounded like it was above the front diff. It clunked when coming off the power when going forwards - and when sharply applying power in reverse. I'm amazed such a loud 'thunk' could be generated by something so innocuous. ...... [sigh] what a relief to get rid of it.

The tank is done! Thank you John :)

Do you unplug them at the tank or the filter?

Cheapest I found on google..

Ahh yes ....

I have seen them. A google shows signs of them too:

pm'd you zim

That's a great post, thankyou. I haven't soaked my felt washers either time and perhaps that is the problem? The last seal I replaced still essentially looked new - so it seems plausible to be my fault....

Thanks - I'll check the breather. I can't imagine the bearing being a problem with it being located behind the seal and having no play in it ?

I've just replaced my rear seal and its leaking again after only a few days. Its doing my head in too! The flange seems good, no signs of play, I did a thorough job of fitting the new seal, new felt washer and nut .... The first seal eventually failed so I replaced it and that one didn't last too long - the seal actually still looked ok, but the felt washer looked like it hadn't seated properly. So I expected that was the reason. Now this one has lasted about 5 days before I've noticed it leaking again

I can take some pictures for you.

Leather underpants?