Anderzander

I take your point about sensitively deviating from the track to make progress. There is the third option though, that given the lane is a deadend, is to turn back. I think my thinking is complicated by having seen vehicles take that route last year and cause quite a bit of damage to the surface and (summer) foliage. I also know that the local parish council have petitioned LDNP with photos of off route driving (some of it pretty horrendous) and are pushing for action from them. The TRF are saying the damage is water caused and promoting the idea that responsible users stick to the track. LDNP don't really make use of volunteer repairs and have no budget this year - So I'm just worried they'll get closed unless their use becomes a lot more sensitive.

Quite a few. Good pics - though it looks like you went off the track on Parkamoor

They have blades and these larger ones:

Thanks Paul ! I like the grey one. I'll have a count up of what fuses are actually used on mine, its a fairly basic set up (with no ABS, electric windows, or seats etc) so I might get up with one row of blade fuses and one for a pair of relays. It would mean replacing the standard type large fuses with blade fuses - but I don't see a problem with that ? Stephen

I've put up a thread in the for sale section to see if the parts I have might be useful to someone.

Well if flash42 is interested maybe I could split it and sell those parts to your friend and him. I'm actually using the pto motor from that picture to drive a milemarker.

Wow Paul ! Somehow I missed your reply. Fantastically thorough - thank you very much Something I'm thinking of now - is changing that under seat fusebox for one that would fit flat onto the bulk head. Can anyone make a suggestion of which fuse box to use? I like the discovery td5 under seat boxes as it appears to be flat backed, has the right type of fuses and I could also house the under seat relays in there too ... Drawbacks though are that they seem to hold good money, and look larger than I need .... Any fuse box suggestions very welcome.

The probelm is finding one on it's own - I have this set up that includes a H14 hydraulic motor: But breaking it up probably ruins my chance of selling it all.

That's the same as this pic I saved to my hard drive a while ago ... very neat :-) Love to see installation pics of that.

It's a digression and it's fm - but look at this cheap diddy player I fitted - cost all of £16 new. FM, SD and USB.

Wow - still looking, but what a trip

If you're not in a rush, and like it that much, then wait! You'll have it on for a lot longer than you end up waiting I'd think . . . ?

Space, time and fab skills are the prerequisites I'd think ....

Re Trim kits .... ?

My advice would be get it remapped by having the ECU altered, ie a chip inserted - rather than buy a plug in box. A plug in box is never going to be optimised for your engine - where a proper re map will be. If you have a proper remap done - I don't think you'd be wanting to 'sell it on' anyway. So take the plunge is my advice. On mine the ECU part number is NNN000120 - ie the later flashable ECU, although its a 99MY EU2 engine. My only guess is that mine has had a new ECU supplied by Land Rover, and they fitted the later type. When I realsed all this, I was concerned whether they had used an ECU with the necessary EU2 files on it .... it was fine though. There are two specific types of files (and these are the ones for the earlier engine) : Config. tune ID:sttlp009 Fuel tune ID:sthle022 I found a lot out buy searching this and other forums. Porny on here wrote an informative post iirc all about it not being really worth swapping a later ECU onto the earlier vehicle - though if the right files are on it it will run right. You're not that far from Porny - he's bloody hard to get hold of, but my advice would be get in touch and take a drive down to see him.

Thank you - it's a great idea regarding a thicker bottom plate, though sadly its not a custom built one. John Saley just pm'd me a price for a custom built one and it's a bit more than I can really afford to spend at the moment - so I'm looking to see if I can use what I already have. If yours has an integrated guard it would be interesting to know the measurements for a normal civilian one - that will take an aftermarket guard.

Can anyone measure how far down the fuel tank protrudes below the sill level please? I'm looking to fit a hydraulic tank under my seat and am wondering if I'd be able to use an off the shelf fuel tank guard. Thank you!

Have you rearranged your Photobucket site? Most of your pics have disappeared.....

I love it round Morzine - skied there a lot of time, never been on the bike yet though and never driven. Fancy driving there though - are the tolls really that much? Its more than I expected.

Have you removed the case? Some of them have a manual lever inside I think.

I bought them from Mudmuncher on here - I've gone back to him and he's said the wide angle props are all for lifted vehicles ..... which isn't quite right of course as the wide angle is used for more than accommodating a lift. However though - it points to him having bought them as an off the shelf item rather than as a custom made prop. I'm not quite sure what to do now - I had half thought MM might offer to take them back with them not seeming to be the fitment I'd bought them under. He said sell them on here - and I have put an add on. I'm also thinking now that perhaps I should send it to the prop clinic and have it shortened for £40..... JJB when yours arrive would you measure yours please?

Wonder what that means for me then ....

Incidentally - I think I have figured out what the small jump in the front prop is ... I am at standard height but have the +2" turrets - so I have more compression travel on the suspension. I think that when I stab the brakes the extra travel means the prop slide joint is no longer able to absorb the movement and so jumps a little as the UJ flexes to absorb the movement. I'll look into addressing that by perhaps having a prop altered to put the slider joint a little more open when in the neutral position.

A small update: I removed the front prop and ..... its fine So - i popped it into diff lock and went for a drive and my clunk is still there .... I'm now leaning to it being at the front of the rear prop. Whilst the prop was off I took a moment to check for play in the front diff flange: Which I believe is very good, with only a small amount of movement? There was no play in any other plane. I also stuck the box in gear and tried the front transfer output flange: Which again, I believe is very good ? I was told to expect a dreadful amount of back lash with the front prop removed but it was actually pretty good to drive... So the search continues.

I'm a bit minimalist in mine. Most people seem intent on adding a centre dash so that can fit more switches and dials - I'm wondering what I can take out or how I can fit what I have in to the most basic and spacious dash.