Anderzander

This will blow your mind ...... read the guys post, and don't jump ahead to the pictures..... Link....

You'd need pretty much everything :-) If you want it to be as good as it can be you'd want a PTO driven high capacity pump, a good sized reservoir, a spool valve and if you wanted to have cab control a morse lever too and finally all the pipe work. Perhaps 2" from the reservoir to the pump and 1 1/2" for the rest of the system.

Thanks Ian! That's a big help.

Wow, that's a totally different set up! (the llama one) More easily followed though as you are only missing a flat washer the same diameter as your one with a lip.

Could the different length be absorbed simply by the thickness of the new bushes and where the washers sit? If you put the flatter washer at the top, then the bush, then the curved washer, with the curve facing down to facilitate movement. Then slide the pin through the axle, put the next curved washer on, curve facing up, then the bush and then try a flat washer and a nut. The movement will be allowed by the curves and the extra pin length will presumably be absorbed by the bush and washer arrangement. The shoulder on the pin will perhaps act as a stop for the final washer and nut.

I was 170 kg out - having seen Ralph's guess I feel that was quite close ....

What kind of mpg improvements do people get from a re-map?

Time to tell us - and what's the prize for the closest guess?

Good post.

I forgot about the alloy block .... I was just doubling up pipes and cylinders. Never mind there wasn't too much science in there!

I reckon the unladen weight of a 109 petrol motor is 1500 kg Plus 60 kg extra for the V8 20 kg for the gear boxes 1 litre of petrol is 0.7 kg - so 2/3 of a series ((68 x 2/3) x 0.7) = 31. 7 kg 165 kg for person and kit portals 100kg - partly for the robust conversion work done ... 25 kg extra for the tyres 10 kg for the wheels... 1911.7 kg ...

Looks expensive .... ?

I have the same winch as you Nige - have you moved it up already? If so, what did you do with relocating the hydraulic (drive) motor?

If you want me to compare them to standard position I'll have to do it as I'm fitting them and I've a few more bits to buy before I do that .... I will do - but someone may be able to do it quicker if you're in a rush?

Some good deals in Halfords for tools at the moment..

Its a fair way from me - but if the date you set fits I can come and give some time.

Some of those are in the post to me as we type ....

to quote fridge freezer:

Its not healthy to do the sneaky on your Dad though - why not try tell him how the re-chip improves torque and fuel consumption. If he's up for it on those grounds then go for it. If not, then just try and get your mates to follow you down a green lane and see who is in the front then.

My new signature if you don't mind!

Another vote for a proper map. I've come across a few td5's now that have been tuned for top end power and suffer because of it. One of them I would say is now useless at towing. I think sometimes they produce big steps in power at the higher revs so people think 'wow what a difference!' The best drive is a proper map with a smooth torque curve. It'll pull better, give better economy and be far kinder to the engine and drive train. What's that phrase they have in America? 'BHP sells engines - torque wins races'. iirc.

Strictly I guess its a Q Max punch .... link Essentially its a cup and a tube. A pilot hole is drilled in the sheet you want to cut and the cup and tube assembled around a bolt which is passed through the pilot hole. Cup on one side, tube on the other. Its then wound together to press a perfect cut out of the sheet.

Two slots. Imagine 2 22m holes joined into a slot. Well I need to cut two of those slots side by side.

Thank you. I'll have to look into water jet cutting instead perhaps - not sure though what small job costs are like for that.

[gasp] is that the orange logo on your windscreen?