garymorris

Hi Steve i’ve got a ranger 3.2 auto coming on demo next week and was just wondering have you still got yours and if so how has it performed over the time

I don't , but just ring Gwyn up and he'll tell you , he's a very helpful chap

Try Gwyn Lewis , he has a good stock of OME and he's exceedingly helpful

I only looked at his profile because it seemed like too good a vehicle to break , and then hey presto say his P38 all sign written

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153755960432088&set=pcb.537088193136538&type=3&theater I hope nobody gets ripped off , somebody was enquiring about £2,000 worth of parts

I think he's back trading as 'everything Land Rover' , there's an Edward Barrington just advertised breaking a 130 puma 2008 on a Facebook group , when you look in his profile he's got pics of a p38 signwritten 'No Fear 4x4 Breakers' Seems to much like a coincidence to me , especially with the same first name .

They look like Gwyn Lewis mounts

I bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Dixon-Bate-100MM-Towbar-Towball-Adjustable-Slider-Plate-202092-/221598006662?hash=item3398453d86:g:iKMAAOSwLa9UXJn6 You have to adjust/modify the hole centres a little to bolt to the NAS step

It's works to be fair but the speedglas is far superior imho

I've got a speedglas and a Miller , the speedglas is brilliant , the Miller is not as good for mig , but supposed to be better for tig ( I can't tig , so can't answer that ) Would recommend a speedglas

@ Mike ,o.k thanks for that @ Steve , just read you thread , you've done a really tidy job with great attention to detail , only wish I'd read it before ordering my tubular wings , yours is by far the tidiest solution to get tubular wings whilst keeping the standard shape Thanks Gary

I've just started fitting the panels on a Whitbread tubular wing kit (standard wing shape) and come to fit the original wheel spats and they don't seem to be a brilliant fit ...... Not far away . So has anyone on here fitting they're original spats back on and what did they fit like ? Just checking before i force mine on .... Also what have people done with heater intake , as I can't get the plastic duct to fit in ???? Thanks in advance Gary

Duckworth's Land Rover are worth a try , sometimes have them on offer

I'd change the complete tensioner if I were you , there's a thin plastic type washer ( black in colour) which wears , sometimes you'll see it poking out .

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1351&hl=hybrid

Have a look for Dave Lang's 100" hybrid thread , he's. Landrover598 on here It's a a really tidy build and well documented

No need to apologise Robert , not your fault that I'm daft

I'm with Lewis , this has gone straight over my head the worst thing is I could really do with one of these (I'm a steel fabricator) I could manage the assembly bit , it's the computer/controller wizardry that got me beat

When you use t wash/mordant solution the Galv will go black , you then rinse it off with water , once dried I suppose you would treat it like a normal(ungalved) piece of steel

It's a bit of a fiddle to do , I removed the hockey stick which helps access , I thought the worst bit to do was the piece on top of the chassis . I had a 4 1/2" and 9" grinder , just go steady and remove it in pieces Hth

Try some of your local steel fabricators , small firms will be the best , they'll probably change a bottle for cash . The only problem might be that boc bottles are bar coded (I've read it somewhere ????) I change air products bottles for a couple of people

It won't be worth having a warranty as I've been told marshland are closing because gkn will cease making chassis's

I have the Gwyn lewis mudflaps kit on mine and have to say I'm chuffed to bits with it .

Usually it's the bottom people stuggle with (I think) because the bulkhead has got the gap for the tunnel

If I were you I'd get a piece of 50x50 box section drilled at the same centres/hole size as your bulkhead outriggers and then bolt it to the bulkhead and send it for galvanising