Peaklander

How did you check the belt tension?

Ok so the belt is sitting correctly, the flywheel slot is directly above the access hole (with pin in?), the cam sprocket mark is in-line with the fixed mark. The engine runs bad with the pump timing pin in but if you loosen and turn the pump pulley clockwise then the engine is sweet but there’s no alignment now to allow the pin in. That has to be poor position of the pulley on the shaft doesn’t it or can the pump still be a tooth out (slack or tight)?

So is the belt sitting better now than in your photo just a few posts ago? I'm confused.

To the experienced people on here, is the following a correct summary? Kevin has got the engine running smoother by adjusting the pump timing further than the pin allows. To me this suggests that the pump flange/pulley is indeed out of position (slightly) on the shaft. This would be a consequence of removing and refitting during the seal renewal. There’s nothing wrong with leaving things like this as long as it’s not forgotten. It might be worth seeing if a smaller pin (drill) does fit in just to make re-timing a little easier at the next belt change.

In his video, Mike removes a shorter bolt from the pump and uses one from an older pump that has the slotted washer. This is a longer bolt and can lock the shaft. He shows how the timing is correctly set by the DTI and then locks the shaft. He refits the pulley/flange in that position, holds it with the timing pin and then unlocks the shaft. He also shows how to be sure that the pump is on the #1 part of the rotation before doing this, if the front flange has been removed without first marking it and the shaft.

My 300TDi has two slots. I think that they are separated within a quarter turn of the flywheel. As I sit here though I think that with the wrong one, you couldn't get the cam mark anywhere near. @reb78 knows far better than I do and he said the same earlier.

I think that bolt / plate is key to being able to lock the shaft if you do need to remove the pulley. If yours has that little washer/plate then you can do what he did (in part 1 of that pair of videos) and remove it. That allows the bolt to be screwed in further to lock the shaft at the correct position - once you have set the lift using the dti. Then you can refit the pulley in the correct position to allow the timing pin in.

I have about the same experience as you. I have changed my belt just once but didn't need to remove the pump. If I was in this situation I would check a dozen times that I really have set the timing correctly and am not a tooth out on the belt. The pin should go into the pump at around 11 o'clock. Once really sure then I would either: remove the pump and take it back to the guy who changed the seal or, follow the advice from Mike on that video and check for myself that the pump shaft is in the correct position for number one port. Then I would re-fit, time it / do the belt tension one more time.

Just to add to that, I added a link to the video. Is that the one that you have watched? The line-up of the front hub/pulley is checked right at the start of the video.

That kit is only going to allow you to set the timing marginally more accurately than you are doing now using a pin in the front. If you have already got the pin in the flywheel and one in the pump then it will hardly alter. Just a bit but not to cure really bad running. It's more likely as has been said already, that the hub hasn't been put back correctly, so it is allowing the pin to go in even though the pump is out of position. Spend time to watch the Britannica video that shows how to put the hub on with the pump in the correct internal position. Then time-up the engine with the pump back in place as you have just done. Here it is: Also check that you aren't in the incorrect flywheel slot (as mentioned earlier) and that the timing mark on the cam is perfectly lined up too.

There was one on the Hessle road in Hull when I went past a little while ago now. Have a look on Street view for it. It's on the left as you go towards the dock, after the swing bridge and just before a roundabout. Edit: couldn't resist and did it for you https://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/plant-locator/humber-galvanizing-ltd/ but they have a plant nearer to you https://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/plant-locator/metaltreat-galvanizers/

To be clearer because I wasn’t before, when I called it a pulley, I was referring to the drive hub on the pump.

I think that in one of the Britannica videos, Mike shows how to be sure that the pulley is put on with number 1 port in the correct position. He basically says “don’t panic if you’ve taken it off, just do this”.

What a great reply. Thank you for taking the time to write it. As you can see from what I've quoted, I was talking about inadvertently spinning the wheels rather than deliberately doing it. If you concentrate on weighing down the side with better contact, I presume that will tend to exacerbate the lack of traction at the less grippy wheel. So then the left foot braking is I suppose the only other tool left once there is a wheel spinning at each axle (or at least not gripping). That and reversing and trying again. Have I got that correct? It does take me back many years to driving a Fordson Major at my in-law's farm. I once got it stuck good and proper. These tractors had a link across dual brake pedals so that they could be used separately. Eventually my Father-in-law came to sort me out. Jumped on (no cab) and very easily managed to drive back out on the throttle and using the footbrake.

A serious question from one who hasn't driven a lot off road. In doing this, did you spin a wheel at each axle at the same time? If so, what happened, did you reach down to some traction to be able to continue? That's the bit that I don't understand with a standard 110 as there is no locker or lsd at the axles. (yes it would be a good idea if I got out more and tried myself 🙂).

Ah-ha. I have taken my trim off! Can you tell? Great stuff Ralph.

They are probably used to apply outward pressure on the upper sides so as to align them correctly with the tub panel below. Mine have been like that since I bought my vehicle in 2015 but judging by the state of the cappings then, the sides hadn't been removed since 1996!

Search for mobile auto locksmiths or similar. There are a lot about and at least before CV19 they responded very quickly and can usually give you an answer and price over the 'phone.

This is where they mount. You’re not far off.

...and also, how far do you need to rotate the crank between the position where the pump pin will go in and seeing the flywheel slot?

When it’s at TDC the pump pin goes in at about 11 o’clock. It goes in a long way. There’s no mistaking when it is correct. The flywheel must be on the correct rotation and you will only find the flywheel slot and the FIP hole in one of two full rotations of the flywheel. It’s very easy to miss the slot. Lie underneath with a good torch and with the near side wheel lifted, in gear, you can rotate the engine to find it.

There must be a resistor in each led circuit and that will limit the current that flows through the led and so through the load (your usb / voltmeter) when the fuse has blown.

It’s because without the fuse you’d normally have an open circuit, but in this case even without the fuse, the led is there allowing current to flow and you therefore have voltage on the output side of the fuse connection. The led is in the feed but it’s normally short circuited by the fuse and so no current flows through it. With the fuse out or blown, the led can pass current and therefore illuminate. You then see the lower voltage as the led drops a little when it conducts. Edit: should add that the usb socket is providing enough load to provide current through the led but I assume not enough to illuminate it.

Be careful and choose the correct one. They offer two; US style push the top and EU push at the bottom. You linked to the US style. Here is the EU one. Sorry if you know this already.

No not him. A few years before S-I-V 🤣