Peaklander

I don't think that Ross has suitable workshop facilities or the equipment to do simple cuts of sheet aluminium. Grabs coat ...

Doesn't it depend whether or not you are on your own? If you are with another vehicle or can call them back on the radio, then it can't be quite as important as when you are alone and reliant on someone you don't know and possibly can't converse with, eventually driving pat and offering to help. I have never yet put myself in a situation where I might get bogged down (apart from Peak District snow) but I have been in reasonably isolated places with no back-up (Albanian alps, central northern Greece, Bosnia). It's not Africa or Mongolia but it does make you wonder what you would do if you couldn't extract on your own.

How odd. I bought an 88” chassis directly from them roughly ten years ago and was very happy with it.

Marsland told me that they buy them from GKN and then modify as requested to allow 300 TDi mounts, metal fuel tank or V8 variants. They only ever manufactured the Series chassis and for Series 3 that was eventually using the original jigs when LR offered them. I don’t know why or exactly when they stopped doing that.

That video is beautiful. What a great way to start my day.

Hi Roverdrive, I am a little confused by this thread (I know I helped confuse things by talking about the wrong solenoid). Are you referring to a 300 or 200TDi? You say that the drawing you have doesn't show a starter relay but my 1996 300TDi certainly does have one. The drawing I use is for a 97MY vehicle but even the oldest 300TDi drawing I have for a 1991-94 vehicle shows a starter relay.

The alternator will supply enough current to power the loads even if the battery is discharged and enough to charge the battery too. It takes time to recharge though and it could be a few running hours. With less load (no headlights, wipers, heated screens) then the alternator has more of its output available to push into the battery. The multimeter will give you a much better indication of what's happening but there is no harm in checking the earths anyway. Just don't invest in a new alternator just yet.

Sorry I got the wrong solenoid. I have had my starter relay (300TDi) bypassed for five years and switch the starter solenoid off the ignition switch on a direct cable.

Sorry the thread went weird and I didn’t see the reply. The earth point I’m referring to is a connection to the transfer box case. Undo it, clean all contact surfaces to shiny ( there’s two ring terminations I think, plus the bolt into the case), coat them with a smear of Vaseline and then reconnect. The strap from engine to chassis and the cable from chassis to battery negative is the rest of the circuit.

Oh OK, I missed that! Yes the little solenoid at the FIP will be smaller than the one in the relay, so it's no problem.

The starter relay coil is inhibited from energising, by the 10AS alarm unit behind the instruments. So the alarm must not be set. The switched output from the relay is then routed through the immobiliser which is at the front of the battery box and on to the starter solenoid at cranking (if the coil is allowed to energise). At the same time the immobiliser also sends +12V to the fuel solenoid. You can bypass this relay. The two signals that you need are a +12V at the IGN switch cranking position direct to the starter motor solenoid (spade terminal) and a +12V IGN ON at the injection pump fuel solenoid.

@cackshifter gave a very comprehensive reply which is all valid. The reason that I was specific about that particular transfer box earth point, is that my fuel gauge (1996 300TDi) started to go haywire, especially when I pressed the brake pedal. After cleaning the other earths that I was aware of (chassis strap, bulkhead earth ring stud near the pedal boxes), I found the other one on the transfer box and that was definitely the poor one which fixed the problem.

Check the earth point on the side of the transfer box. It’s on the right side underneath the driver’s side on a rhd vehicle. You can see it from underneath. Also you can’t assess the state of charge without a voltmeter.

Nick, there's a place in Worksop. I'll get the details...and post back on here. I haven't used any of these. the last I used in Rotherham has since closed. This is Worksop https://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/plant-locator/worksop-galvanizing-ltd/ but there's one coming-up in Rotherham - http://ysgl.co.uk/index.html and this in Stoke - http://stokegalvanising.co.uk

Fantastic pictures. I guess you have a telephoto lens.🤣

Hee Hee, that's the sort of project where if it was mine, it would never look good but I can tell that this will. Great stuff. Please keep the pics coming.

However you did run the engine after that though. I'm a bit confused and feel as though there's something for me to learn here. 😀

I have previously pulled the shorter side off as a whole and I have just enough room to pull it right out I think. On the longer side though I'm not sure. On that side of my garage I do have the width if I use the underside of the workbench which is 'open' but I'd be faffing around with the weight whilst bent double underneath the bench. So I might try to rest them on small stands as Dave suggests.😃 What I didn't mention is that I have found a 'hidden' Series 2a with full tilt from March 1964. I don't think it has moved for many years as DVLA say untaxed since 2011. It might be one of those that the owner says is "going to be put back on the road" but I would like to approach him. The only problem is that Mrs Peaklander is not really understanding my pleas of "it would be an investment anyway, even if I don't get round to doing it".

Land Rover related, I have a lot of little jobs to sort on my 110 300TDi. I am fitting a Spafax mirror to replace my broken MudStuff XL where the plastic snapped inside. I though it would be straight-forward, as I removed the top hinge at the door side (to thread the wire back in) but I found that the hinge pin as a slack as a slack thing. So waiting for a new hinge which will need painting. I am going to remove my front diff as I am sure its worn. That will be a first for me. I also need to reduce the noise from my Eber D2 heater which is disturbingly noisy on start-up and for as long as it stays on full bore heating. I don't know why it is so bad but I am going to experiment with exhaust position relative to the pipe it's connected to. Have the MOT booked in a couple of weeks but that's straightforward nowadays.

Brilliant. It was diesel then, so @Red90 was on the money. How did that push rod get bent? Do you have any idea?

As I have discovered after fitting an oil pressure gauge to my 300TDI, it takes a long time for the oil to get to operating temperature (indicated by lower pressure). It is much longer than the water temperature takes to get to normal. My water gauge is normal within about 10mins but the oil pressure (temperature) follows after about 30mins and even then when the vehicle isn't worked hard the pressure remains higher. So I agree with the learned ones, that a much longer drive might help.

The voltage variation that you are seeing is exactly what we had with our 300TDi when the fault was the diode pack. It is a very cheap fix of around £10 and with ours the alternator was left in position. There is a thread somewhere on here I think that describes how to do it. The key part is when refitting the new pack, the brushes have to be held in the up position to allow it to be put into position on the alternator. This is done with a paper clip pushed through a tiny hole, which is there for this very purpose. Once over the rotor, the pin is removed and the brushes spring down into the contact position. Edit: I hope this is the same alternator as yours...

Does this mean that you might not bother fitting any doors to save weight? 🤷‍♂️

I'm still hijacking... this is my snorkel. It doesn't have a spigot as you can see. Are you meaning that a watertight seal is possible between item 2 in the diagram and the 'non-spigotted' face of my Safari? Sorry about the size of the pics, I can't get them smaller. Usually it's no problem doing so.

I can’t work out who they are. That first pile was at the overnight stop in the first pic. On the otherside of the road is a big burn and it was between the road and water. That was an amazing place with no light and as there was no moon I got a stiff neck gazing up. Virtually no traffic either after dark. On Kintyre, people had made fires on small areas of turf instead of a few steps away in the pebble beach. They don’t remove the turf and replace after as a good Boy Scout would do.