Peaklander

Thanks Ralph. My concern is/was the final pressure drop once the oil gets up to final temperature. It’s then <2Bar (28) when driving and at idle the value is <1.5Bar (21).

Well this won't be much help but my hazard switch (now using a Carling Contura V) has the following connections: G - IGN switched +12v P - Permanent +12V GW - to RH side indicators GR - to LH side indicators LGN - to turn switch common LG - to flasher relay plus an earth and illumination Not sure if your switch will easily swap in.

I'm sure you are correct. I did check the earth path with a meter at the bulkhead earth and the sender case. I know that isn't quite all of it but it eliminates the threads at the ports and the engine earth strap. I don't know why I didn't buy a two terminal sender; maybe it wasn't available in 1/8" NPT thread option. I guess I'll get used to it and it should give me a little more warning of impending doom than just the low pressure switch.

A latching switch does what it says and latches in the ON position until it is operated again when it goes back to OFF. So no, a latching switch wouldn't run through a timer relay. These have a MOMentary switch that just pulses a signal to them in order for them to click ON for the timed period.

I'm continuing this thread as we talked about oil pressure and viscosity earlier. After lots of works of various kinds on my vehicle since the start of lockdown, yesterday I drove it for the first time in weeks. It is only a few hundred miles into life with new piston rings, honed bores etc. I fitted a VDO oil pressure gauge and matching sensor and I did wonder if doing this would open-up a can of worms. I picked the 0-5Bar VDO vision gauge, a Tee piece with 1/8" NPT threads at each end and M10 at the Tee. So the pressure switch came out, the Tee screwed in with the pressure switch moved to the other end and the VDO sensor went in on the Tee. I moved my clock to the Mud console so that the gauge would be easier to read. So to my experiences of the oil pressure and then a question. All looks ok at start-up and for the first 20-25 minutes of a drive. My water temperature gauge reaches the normal operating point after 10 minutes and then stays there - it aways does, whatever the work rate, height above sea level (max 2,400m) or the ambient temperature (low 40s C). Watching the oil pressure, at cold start its about 3.5Bar so just under 50psi. This drops to around 2 Bar (28psi) once the engine is hot. However at some point after that, so by now I've been driving for 15-20 mins, it drops more to 1.5Bar when working, perhaps a tad more, and at idle it is 1 - 1.5. This idle pressure is a little low as the spec. is 1.8Bar (25psi). I'm more concerned about the fairly low pressure when operating though. What do you think? Has the oil taken more time to warmup than the coolant? Am I seeing oil that is too hot and hence lower viscosity? I could measure the oil temperature as I have an infra red camera attachment for my iPhone. Perhaps I could jump out and measure the pipe temperature at the oil cooler (bottom pipe?). I knew fitting a gauge would throw-up questions. 😀 Edit: forgot to say that the oil I use is 15W-40 SHPD.

I saw at Bridlington last week that they clean the sand with a tractor towing a "surf rake". It's a little like a round baler with a big sieve, scooping the top layer and then letting it fall back out through the sieve. It is driven at walking pace and does a great job quite quickly which is just as well as there's a fair area of sand even above high water mark.

What a lovely place to take it. I spent many hours on that beach years ago and Marine Drive is something else in bad weather. We are here this morning, all waiting for pictures of your finds!

The thread was resurrected with a 1st/2nd fear jumping problem. It was me who introduced reverse and my cause wasn’t the idler but a worn selector fork, as I said. I just offered it as a possible cause. 😀

I saw the report on the news last night of the Reading park deaths and couldn’t believe the lack of social distancing outside the school where one of the victims worked. The Head was reading a statement and pupils and teachers were standing very close together. I think police officers were too.

I had the same problem on my 88” in reverse. The cause was the selector was worn around the arc where it engages with the selector ring ( is that the correct term?). This made it thinner so it didn’t push the ring as far as needed to engage the gear correctly.

I bought my BFG ATs from Tyreleader five years ago and they were significantly cheaper than anywhere else at the time. The fitter at the local garage had a battle to get them to seal on the rims. He said that they appeared to have been stacked incorrectly or for too long and as a consequence they were squashed. I think he used the brake fluid expansion method on some of them.

Have you used the site at lrworkshop.com? I have a log-in but otherwise no connection. It's really useful and has some "crowd" input to develop it. Here is the diagram posted above...https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/2.5-petrol/thermostat-housing_53276 There are links to some vendors, not all of them but is is very handy.

I’ve had a lot of luck with Halfords’ spray cans. Epsom Green and the clear lacquer. They are a good match.

My daughter got off the trans-Siberian train in mid winter on the way to a job in China. She had a nine day trip around Mongolia in a Uaz 452 with a few other people. It seemed to go anywhere. I don’t think they used many roads at all. Obviously the ground was fairly frozen 😀 so perhaps not that demanding really.

90 or 110? I have some photos of a 110 CSW during chassis swap.

How old the thread is, is irrelevant. There is still useful information in an old thread - we have the Technical Index on here for a start. What's even better IMHO is when people cross-reference one thread from another. That makes them even more useful, even if they are ten years old.

Yes it is but so are a lot of things. How many people travel to football grounds week in week out? What about F1 for example - they fly around the world, as do plenty of spectators. How much fuel is burnt by the total attendance at say Silverstone over four days? Once you start picking on one polluting car it's hard to stop.

Is that with a boost pin in?

I'm not surprised! Having done a fair amount of process mapping and operational improvement work over the years, I can see that both of these could be correct. Some organisations get so wrapped-up in their KPIs that they pull all sort of stunts. One place said that they handled evidence bags within 24 hours of receipt. This they did, if booking-in and putting on a shelf is classed as 'handled'. The same bags then sat on the shelves, sometimes for weeks and even months in some cases.

Ok well I'm almost out of advice and comments now. I have learnt a lot by reading this thread and watching videos and thinking things through. However I seem to get more confused when I read your updates rather than less 🤨. I still can't work out where you are with yours. When you say the pin clicks in at 1.54, I assume you are using a spring pin at the flywheel and that you still can't get a pin into the fuel pump at that position. If that is the case, I think you are still at the point suggested, either the pump flange is mis-placed or you have fitted the belt wrong. What you do now is up to you.

I hope you don't mind this but I don't think that you have thought through just what is happening when you set the timing. It's not a matter of putting it back or leaving it where it is before you start. When you set the timing you will alter it. When you do this there are two aspects. 1) The pump is put into exactly the correct position within the injection cycle for #1 cylinder The pump should be correctly set when the pin is put through the hole at the front but only if the flange/pulley is correct on the shaft. If it isn't, then just because the pin goes in doesn't mean that the pump is in the correct internal position. That's what the dial gauge can be used for. When the pump is in the correct position (1.54mm of lift as measured with the dti) the pin should slide in. Look at Brittanica's videos again. It is clearly shown. If the pin won't go in when you have set it to 1.54, then you need to decide if you are going to re-position the flange yourself or take the pump somewhere to get it done. It sounds as though you tried to pull the flange off and couldn't. If you do go down this route you must be able to lock the pump when it is at 1.54mm using the bolt at the side. Then the flange can be positioned to allow the pin to slide in. Mike shows all this in the video. You can check the 1.54 and the pin going in with the pump on the engine but to adjust the flange you would need to remove it. 2) The engine is put into the correct position for the pump setting in 1) above The second point is all about the flywheel slot being exactly in the correct place. Have you got a pin for that? Also the cam sprocket being correctly aligned with the fixed mark on the engine. Then with the pump correctly set with the pin in the hole, the timing belt can be fitted and tensioned correctly. If it doesn't run properly then you will have made a mistake somewhere. If in any doubt, send the pump somewhere to have it set up again.

How did you check the belt tension?

Ok so the belt is sitting correctly, the flywheel slot is directly above the access hole (with pin in?), the cam sprocket mark is in-line with the fixed mark. The engine runs bad with the pump timing pin in but if you loosen and turn the pump pulley clockwise then the engine is sweet but there’s no alignment now to allow the pin in. That has to be poor position of the pulley on the shaft doesn’t it or can the pump still be a tooth out (slack or tight)?

So is the belt sitting better now than in your photo just a few posts ago? I'm confused.

To the experienced people on here, is the following a correct summary? Kevin has got the engine running smoother by adjusting the pump timing further than the pin allows. To me this suggests that the pump flange/pulley is indeed out of position (slightly) on the shaft. This would be a consequence of removing and refitting during the seal renewal. There’s nothing wrong with leaving things like this as long as it’s not forgotten. It might be worth seeing if a smaller pin (drill) does fit in just to make re-timing a little easier at the next belt change.