Peaklander

Ah OK thanks Ross. The winch rope slides around it, as it's pulled in and the other is a fixed length. Nothing at all like the manufactured picture then.

Come on then, enlighten me. For someone who has never seen any recovery, other than with an old fashioned tow-rope in the olden days, what is the doughnut thing supposed to be used for?

Yes. If you look at the circuit diagram, the RW is fed from RO which from Fuse 16. There is a connection from RO to RW in the binnacle at connector ref C223 - C332 pins 5. (see the circuit diagram). This picture comes from the Defender Electrical Library publication. You just put C223 into the search and up pops these details...

When you test for power on the supply side (the +12v) you obviously put your voltmeter black onto a ground (0v) to complete the test circuit. That doesn't mean that the instrument circuit has a 0v connection. See the path on the diagram below. You need to ensure that the black go through that header joint and onto the earth stud C556 which is on the other side of the bulkhead from the instruments, high up, engine side. The earth header is here...

Are you following the circuit diagram? Fuse 1 is permanent live (from brown through fuse to purple) and feeds the hazard switch and the 10AS. I don't know how that can go to 0 volts without blowing the fuse. Fuse 3 is a key selected switched feed (white) and so should be on all the time that 'ignition' is selected. When you say "Cleaned that lot up and put back together and the sidelights now work fine.", what did you clean exactly? Edit: The Defender Electrical Library document has a good write-up for indicator and hazard circuit logic.

Why can't I see that photo unless I click in the white space? I sometimes re-possess stuff at our local recycling - as long as there isn't a jobsworth on duty who is keen to point out all the cameras.

The reverse light is fed from the switch at the gearbox , which itself has an ignition controlled +12v (green). If weird things happen elsewhere when reverse is selected I think it must be a fault at the back corner where the reverse lamp wire runs near the others. Maybe an intermittent short there. Not sure really.

Also does the interior lamp work when you put the switch to 'On'? Obvious I know but that would confirm that the fuse is OK.

My 300TDi has an OBD port at the front of the middle seatbox plate, under the cubby. The interior light is controlled by the 10AS when it is switched to 'door' position. When it sees a door open it turns the light on by taking the control wire to 0 volts. It also puts the light on when the alarm is unset and kills it when the ignition is turned on. It isn't directly connected to the door switches.

What’s the number of the fuse that blows?

You hadn't mentioned that bit 😀

That is the elegant solution!

There's no point worrying or even thinking about the spider or general immobiliser stuff until you can set the alarm. To do that you must have the input conditions right. The internal sensor thing isn't needed (I don't have it now) but the switches at the doors and bonnet must be working. In my experience the bonnet switch can move down and so isn't 'made' with the bonnet closed. So check that with a bit of chalk or something. To really test it, you need to probe the 10AS unit where these switches connect but I think as long as you are sure they work and are connected to the loom, then it's a good guess that the 10AS can see them. Once it is happy with those circuits and it sees the button press on the fob, then the lamps should flash as it sets. In any case you can press 'unlock' and I think they flash anyway. My battery is disconnected so can't check which way round it is for lock/unlock but one is three flashes and the other is one long one.

Clearly! I could do with a red block.

For next time, the Elring gasket has ‘Top’ embossed on one side. It doesn’t jump out at you but is there if you look.

Isn't the tab supposed to be further along, near #3 and #4?

That SGS trolley jack is the one I have. However I found it in a reclamation yard with one broken wheel. Bought for £10 and got a new wheel and a pad from SGS. Excellent device. I have stands from them too but the pin ones. Not sure of the rating without looking but they are probably these https://www.sgs-engineering.com/js1-5-axle-stands 3 tonne ones. Maybe the ratchet type give you more height options.

That lights-on warning lamp is key I think. If that doesn't illuminate with the stalk in the first click (sidelights) then it can only be the switch, it's connection or fuse 16. You can see the circuit in this diagram. Forget the complicated look, just find SWITCH-LIGHTING (S100) and follow that red to the fusebox, through it (thin black) and out of fuse 16, then on Red Orange to INSTRUMENT PACK (J100). The 0 volts side of that looks to all end at earth terminal C556 (RH side of the drawing) and this is at the RH side of the bulkhead (on the engine side). That is also worth checking for brightness on the ring terminations.

If you mean the dash green ‘lights on’ warning lamp then yes I think it’s stalk related. Check the connection first maybe.

The green warning lamp on the dash that shows 'lights on' is enabled by the headlamp stalk through fuse 16. It should light in the first position and the same circuit goes to the RH sidelamp. The LH lamp is fed from that switch through fuse 15 but the warning lamp is not. If neither side lamp is working but the dipped beams are then it must be a fault with the stalk switch and specifically one contact in it. Or maybe you have lost the connection to it on the red core (side) and not the blue (dip)

Yes just a little bit - it's a very small mass. The WD should just shock it cold again. That ought to work...

Have you warmed it and used PlusGas with a careful twist too?

I left mine in the ‘natural’ state and can’t wait until I replace the corners too. The replacement front doors also match 😳

The front and side are working, so that eliminates the hazard. The split to the three lamps is after the switch, at the header I referred to.

The pictures come from the Defender Electrical Library manual which is labelled as 97MY so yes it is later. However I have found that the circuits and connectors in it that are relevant to mine, a 96, are correct. It has others which I do not have but they seem to be additions to existing, rather than it all being different. Yes that header is in the middle of the dash sort of behind the radio, rear wash bit. It's a horrible place to get to so I would try to find the Green/Red wire after there, where it goes through towards the rear. That's because at that header the feed splits to the front and side lamps. If they are OK then I doubt the header is faulty. It is labelled Header joint (K109) in the diagram. I realised that I missed the intermediate connector C376 - C390 which is shown in the diagram below. That is the one on the engine side of the bulkhead, left side as you look in, near the clutch slave pipe. Try to check the voltage there on GR.