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lo-fi

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Everything posted by lo-fi

  1. There's a good troubleshooting video with the whole drivetrain on the bench on the Rokon YouTube channel. That's interesting, is that supposed to happen? Wasn't mentioned in the troubleshooting video. Pics are fantastic and I kinda want one!
  2. Thanks, that's the first detailed pics I've seen of it.
  3. You'll find some pics of my engine mounts in my 109 thread linked above. What I'd suggest is to keep adding stuff to the engine as you've been doing and checking it clears. Exhaust downpipes are a great example of something that might back you into a corner. Once you're happy the major stuff is in and clear, it's time to bite the bullet and start fabricating! I'd suggest leaving at least and inch between the rad and anything on the front of the engine, the rubber mounts move more than you think. One useful trick to give oil filter clearance etc. up front is to mount the engine slightly higher than it otherwise might be.
  4. If you get the cam bearings replaced they need to be machined to size after fitment, but the need for honing cam bearings when fitting a new cam is much less obvious. That's not one I've heard before. As Fridge says, V8 developments or Turner Engineering will be able to answer that one for sure. Timing chain is a definite: they stretch and there's no tensioner to take up slack. New (genuine) tappets are an absolute must with a new cam too as the old ones will have worn with the old cam and would quickly wear a new one.
  5. Wouldn't hurt to take a set of chocks with you, but they're normally pretty good if you explain. Agreed as above it's probably an accumulation of wear. 6 inches doesn't translate to many degrees of rotation through the drivetrain up to the hand brake drum.
  6. Both the splitters pictured look up to the task. +1 on winding it up and going for a break or tapping the tool. I have some 4" diameter taper joints to split shortly... Even works on them!
  7. It's 10lbft, if I recall correctly, so really not very tight. Just a nip up to keep it all together and squish the felt a tiny bit. I torque wrench is an essential tool, though. Definitely get one
  8. I think Fridge is right, the only major problem there is that you've got the Land Rover flywheel with an adaptor made for the Rover car one, which is thinner. Sourcing an SD1/P6 flywheel will probably make it all work with the bits you've got. I believe I've got one, so if you don't mind a trip up to Basingstoke to my lock up, you're very welcome to compare. As others have commented, you'll lose a little low down grunt with the lighter flywheel, but having driven both I'd say it's not the end of the world. My 109 V8 build thread for reference: I believe the LT85 is a little longer than the V8 LT77, but not by much. Again, you're more than welcome to poke about the 109 to get a feel for how it all fits with the long V8 bellhousing.
  9. Interesting... Having seen worked on a 200tdi with some flavour of LT77+LT230 badly shoehorned into an 88, I'd be trying to save every cm I could scrounge. Had to take the transfer box off to get at the handbrake drum I'm not sure if the V8 is any shorter.
  10. There is a short bellhousing LT77, isn't there? One of the 4 cylinders? Maybe this is the reason for the adaptor: The V8 bellhousings tend to be loooooooooooooong.
  11. I was literally writing "do it already!" when the reply notification popped up. Looks great!
  12. @landroversforever, I'd be interested too please!
  13. Definitely possible, and I like the idea. I have a mate who does all kinds of clever stuff with canvas, sure he'd be happy to do a bit of fettling. Biggest challenge is probably getting it to seal at the bottom at the back.
  14. Very nice! I guess that's where a water cooled torch would be handy
  15. They're actually great at cleaning gasket faces up when used with some care. Good for paint removal on surfaces that aren't flat too - stuff like that
  16. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223194636187 They're a funny flexible plastic with grit in.
  17. I have the same, the Roloc stuff is lovely, isn't it! I like the bristle pads too, they're fantastic for cleaning knarly stuff up.
  18. Yep, the pointer is on top. Not always to be trusted to be accurate, but it'll get you in the ballpark. I usually turn the engine with a socket on the crank pulley nut, only going clockwise.
  19. I think we all live vicariously through other people's projects when life gets in the way of ours for one reason or another... Perhaps a few people can suggest particularly interesting threads, YouTube channels and suchlike for you to absorb while recuperating? To start things off: An excellent series about a Series, ongoing at the moment. http://seriouslyseries.createaforum.com/trains-planes-and-everything-else-anything-of-a-anoraky-nature/my-effort-building-a-live-steamer-locomotive/ A Series owner building a live steam loco. Possible sign up required. Enjoy, and hope you're back on your feet soon.
  20. Another upvote for EAC as an alternative to genuine. All the bits I've had from them have been excellent quality, and I've found that the Ashcroft kits often include their parts.
  21. You'd be surprised how bad that won't look after paint! But I completely understand wanting to make a nice job. Like the project
  22. They're almost universally knackered at this stage in life, so some saving up may be the best option. That being said, a pallet is only £60 nationwide, so location need not be a major issue if you do find a promising one.
  23. Ah, thanks chaps! Think I'll try a pair from bjb and see if I can find some silocone ones to suits and report back
  24. Can't get rid of the annoying quote box on mobile - please ignore! Doing some pre mot checks on my 109 and found a few perished rubber boots on the balls joints. Joints are OK and still full of grease not mud! But that won't be for long if this isn't sorted. I recall seeing replacement boots somewhere, but can't for the life of me find again. Plenty on ebay, but you play the quality lottery there, so looking for recommendations if anybody has any? Many thanks!
  25. What a lovely surprise! Have a good look for wear on the rockers and shafts, they're often worn with the cam. Worth checking if you've got a lovely new cam to go in it Check the head for warpage with a straightedge too, just to be sure it's not that that caused the gasket failure.
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