it's pretty straightforward to change, I have done 3 now and have always lifted out as complete as possible, swapped the bits over off the car then replace it, to do this you need at least 2 big friends as the fully dressed bulkheads are heavy and extremely awkward to manoeuvre!
that seems extremely steep! IIRC it's about £850 to swap a whole chassis so 1200 for a bulkhead is a lot. I have done a couple now it takes an easy weekend with a couple of mates. I paid £70 for my last bulkhead, £40 for blasting, £40 for electroplating and £20 worth of paint
what about using the central locking kit solenoids to move dead bolts into the lock and hinge sides? you could probably get a rigid wire up the door frame to fire one into the roof, may be a little pointless because they'd just break the glass! how about Perspex instead of glass, you can't try and smash it without turning the car into a big booming drum!
The other thing to think about is that a lot of the 2 pack paints are cyanide based and require specialist equipment like an air fed mask, I know some people use a normal filter, spray outside and hold their breath but at the end of the day you only have 1 pair of lungs! I got good results with synthetic enamel paint from auto paint St. Helens, it's very tolerant of being applied by a chimp like me and dries harder than a Glaswegian skin head!
I always just used etch primer on galv then brushable seam sealer
Mike
Hi
Would like to fit my eberspacher in my 110, apparently the TD5 defenders and discos have a heater take off on the fuel pump that a special pipe JEI100030 attaches too, problem is it doesn't seem to be available any more
does anyone know of a suitable replacement / how has everyone else done it, seems a shame to hack into hoses when there's a take off!
Thanks
Mike
Buy a 130 every time, will save lots of trouble now and in the future when you try and insure it! unfortunately stretching the chassis would put you in the realms of an iva test etc
Mike
Hi
Super quick question, I'm swinging past Costco later and need to pick up some oil for my new (to me) td5 110 1999my what grade oil does it need, I'm not anywhere near the car or my manual!
Ta
Mike
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=150985701990&kw=150985701990
Maryland laparoscopic forceps...
or try Tilleys Forceps much cheaper (I normally use these for getting various things put of toddlers ears/nose)
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=160978723213&kw=160978723213
Crocodile forceps
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=160946093959&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=13384804306
There's lots of surgical instruments that are useful for working on cars, I have a small stock of expired and used instruments!
Mike
I simply chopped the jacking point off the dumb iron and used nuts on the bolts, makes a horrendous job easy peasy
I have jacking points in my winch bumper though so no bother to lose them!
Mike
my wife rang me in a panic once to tell me the 'engines caught fire' light was on in her metro (it was a while ago!)
the actual 'fault'
she had switched the heated rear window on
ROFL!
my britpart door locks didn't fit into my britpart handles LOL also I bought some series door bottoms that went rusty in my garage!
I avoid now if possible
I have an optimate that I got for my bike, it's excellent but a bit pricey, also if using on car batteries it can take a long time to charge/resurrect, I now use that and 3 halfords chargers plugged in permanently to keep the bike and the 3 landy batteries charged, the halfords ones are excellent and very good value for money
Mike
I bought a good one off ebay for about £100, it cost £40 to get blasted then another £40 to get electroplated, no worries about warping and no excess zinc to clean/drill/re tap etc
The advantage of not repairing yours is being able to take your time refurbing the new one and then swapping quickly
Mike