Nonimouse

Stephen, without doubt you are a very decent chap

If you have a spare 150 or so quid lying around, find an Arrow Radiators or a Serc's and get it rebuilt

Riv nuts - hmmm. I'm never happy with Riv nuts unless they are in 3-4mm steel at the minimum. It's their unpleasant habbit of not undoing and just spinning around . Although I over maintain my vehicle and lavish Lanoguard on it every year, I just don't want that nasty twisting sensation... I might go with captive nuts, or I might go with a nice bit of 8mm by 12mm stainless bar I have, with threads cut into it I do like my new MoT tester - she's very pleasant and, so far, the only female MoT tester I ever met

Always buy brass/copper - but I haven'tgot a spare one at the moment, because I gave mine to someone in need

It's not a written off block. generally its a new set of cam bearings, an annoying amount of time and some blue locktite. It's relatively simple to check - remove the vacuum and feel in with your finger - you can feel if the cam bearing has moved forward or back - do the same with the lift pump and the breather plate behind the pump. Worth noting the cam doesn't move forward/back, the bearings do - so measuring endfloat doesn't do anything Worst case scenario it's an engine out and block down to the local engine specialist for a line bore - this is actually rarely needed Ask me how I know

That's what I just said and why the MoT lady is happy for me to make it removable - as long as it still retain it's relative structural ridgity - ie - fasten it down securely

The boot floor doesn't but the surrounding floor does. From factory the boot floor is spot welded in, not seam welded. The supporting cross members are part of the surrounding floor, three are sectional

One of the issues with any form of fuel derived from arable crops grown in the UK is the inefficency of the growing process. Last time I looked it's 16kgs of energy to grow 1 kg of food energy I regularly run my 200tdi on Rapeseed oil - in the summer every third tank. We have a press and screens down at the farm. The screens are actually from a Biodiesel manufacturing unit, that was sitting, doing nothing The whole rapeseed idea has now been put into question, because my partner in crime is no longer running OM617 engines in his G wagens - the OM606, 636 and 605 will not run well on veg oil.

Proper ice cold cool Theres a 2Cv safari owners club Ive taken out laning a few times - they have even built there own copies of the Safari. Those nice chaps over the channel, at Renault, also built twin engined R4's - one of which won the Dakar in it's early days

Citroen 2CV Safari was legal on british roads...still is

If you want really good quality bearings at sensible money. go on Facebook and look out for Somerset Bearing Supplies. No one better

If you are really stuck, drop down and you can rob some bits off my spare engine - as long as they get replaced in the long term, I'm fine

Not sure if this will be okay for the MoT lady. She say's 'equivalent to the existing spot weld - like a nut and bolt'

Mines not quite standard, so it does make life easier - believe me.

I hear you, but want to be able to access on a regular basis (yearly) for ease of maintenance...

It sparkles! Hadn't thought of Dzus fastners - good call

Lanoguard is really good - but it's a yearly application. It's just lanolin - melted down sheep. But land rover proved that worked well back in the 50's. I've been using it for about 3 years

I need a replacement rear windscreen. I've tried silver and copper paint - no joy. It's old and knackered. The nice people from Autoglass are coming to replace it for me, and the nice people at NFU are paying for most of it. It'll be a D2 version, so I've bought a nice LED hi-level brakelight to fit

After 29 years, I'm replacing the boot floor in the Disco. It's only just started to get the tin worm, but I'm fussy. I had a chat with the MoT lass this morning, about making it removeable, and as to what constituted an equivalent to spot welding. Self tappers are out, which is good. I loathe riv nuts. So I'm thinking of some 6mm bar, running the length of the floor, that's drilled and tapped, then spot welded into place (just so I can use the spot welder). Comments on anything prettier that's lso rust proof

I have a list in my notebook. Nothing so satisfying as crossing something off

Is your lift pump working?

a generous blob of grease and stick the rollers in one at a time. It's a laugh a minute and rarely goes wrong

If you build a vehicle for a competition, build it to finish

Motorbike headstocks, some chainsaw drive sprockets...

I saw this, earlier in the week...😔