Nonimouse

Bit short Mo

I'll try and get some pictures - next time I see him

A friend has a 2.25 with a stage 2 ACR head and a supercharger, it goes well and is relatively economic

I have a kenlowe hotstart. It's the 88degree unit. It's plumbed into the heater return hose as per the instructions The mains lead goes into a pull release socket on the front of the Discovery and it's plugged into a timer and thermostatic switch. If the temperature drops below 5 degrees it switches it on, then the timer comes on at 0650... If I forget to unplug it - it releases itself. To be fair, my disco is warm in a couple of miles or ten minutes fast tick-over on the drive, but this makes ti much easier to de-mist quickly and also warms the engine block

https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/ Based in Andorra, tyres come form Germany - I saved over a third on the next best price

The last ones should have it fitted

Interesting thread I'm working on replacing my D1 jest with headlight washers - for a bigger volume of liquid and a bigger bore (because I think the jest freeze up first), added to which I have a couple of pairs spare in the workshop... However I have noticed on my daily commute, in the Mighty Modus, that the fine spray washer jest don't seem to freeze up - they produce a much finer spray pattern than a 'normal' washer. I use the vastly overpriced and less than efficient pre-mix fluid. Mainly because it's supplied for free at work I tried all sorts of the heating type experiments on my 100" - nothing worked

The preface lift D2 uses the same system as the 200 and 300 D1, so an switch feed live to headlights. So the same thing works as on 200/300 and Pre Td5 Defender. Wire in a relay feed to each headlight so you are running 12v +; then fit modern lamps (Ozram Nightbreaker are good). Do this and you can see where you are going and don't need to fit the later lantern

I think the op meant the other way - replace the plastic with glass

I have a 15P ECU, but 😃I'm avoiding projects at the moment; ;thank you anyway

It's a fair point. I was offered a clean, solid 15p vehicle the other day for £450.00 needed a replacement ECU

If you mooch about on Expedition Portal, it's interesting to see just how many colonials are using the D3 and D4. No , ok, they get the better engine options, but all say how parts have come down, dramatically, in price, thanks to the weak pound. One of the EP members runs a company that makes an excellent diagnostic app for D3/4/RRS; that is up to factory spec diagnostics. The D3/4 is an enormously capable motor - check out Andrew St Pierre White's trip up Baboon Pass in Lesotho, in a Standard vehicle. If I bought one, I'd probably still opt for the V8, but I can't shake the concerns about reliability and the problems with simple maintenance issues. I love them as a drivers vehicle and for sheer practicality. However that practicality is no where near that of my own D1 200tdi. I can tow all up weight, whilst also loading the vehicle to all up weight; rare that I need to, but it does happen. What to do when my 26 year old bus finally dies? I don't know. I've looked and looked. D2? No, not unless I change the engine and chassis. There's nothing Japanese that's better or as cheap to run. A long wheel base G would be nice - but £15k for a reasonable start of project, 30 year old bus - nope. Reminds me of an old friend, an ex pat in Spain, who owns a 30 year old RRC 200Tdi. He's inherited enough money to replace it. Upon looking around and doing some calcs, it's staying and he's doing enough work on to last another 20 years So I know what I need to do. But as to advice on what you should do..make a list. What do you need and do you want. What is it about your defender that makes you need to replace it?

Big old Tilley lamp

Or ask Nick - the amount of paraffin he uses in one year must be huge!

Still laughing at 'Hive Mind' A boost gauge is like a 3/8 drive - only really useful when you need it. Having said that I use 3/8 stuff a great deal. Of the 11 200 tdi's I've owned, only 2 haven't had a boost gauge fitted. The last two I have owned, I just didn't bother. I have one in the tool chest, with pipe and T piece attached, to use when tweaking engines. My Td5 disco (much missed and now driving around the Falkland Islands) had a cheap OBD reader attached. It was interesting for towing comparisons, that's about it. Unless you are nailing the engine every time you drive it, why bother with loads of information you don't need? Has the problem started since the tune?

I think I would be more tempted to use grade 2 paraffin - the stuff used for pressurised oil lamps. It doesn't appear to be effected by time. Silica gel sounds sensible, but I would actually wrap in Newspaper - the damn stuff lasts forever and is a condensation soak (useful old trick to remove damp from an engine bay is to place a newspaper into an oven at 200 degrees, bake it until browning, then spread over the top of the engine and leave for ten minutes) I would also knock up a wooden box to keep it secure in

I meant the whole hitch... lets talk on pm

Do you want a brand new spare one? I've three, cluttering up the garage - you are welcome to one Only issue is how to get it to you

2a-Egg - I'm sending you a pm

There's a chap in Weston Supa Mud, going by the name of Matt Neale, he's pretty damned good at 2.25 petrol magic. PM me your details and I'll text them over to him Alternatively Bowie is 33 mins from you

This is a fair and justified point. I believe the original vehicle was a Mercedes 123, so a tadge more refined

Anything North of the M4 is North; and as such grim, dark, satanic and brooding, full of whippets, ferrets and rather pleasant beer

Where in Somerset are you - PM me if you feel the need for secrecy I'm On Sedgemoor and Bowie is in the Vale of Avalon... I'm happy to help if needs be - although you are running the Devil's fuel We have a superb welder/fabricator in the village who's only 20 quid an hour and there's a chap over by Keinton Mandeville who's pretty damn good with 2.25 lumps (although he's off to sandy places for a couple of years in January)