Nonimouse

Million mile engine, loads of torque, easy to tune, relatively frugal and very well designed

Frome is in Somerset... Shropshire is in The North Huge difference

That's the stuff

As an aside, I had a Quaife in the front axle of my old RRC and a TrueTrac in the rear. It was a good set up. The only issue I had was, when driving fast in the RR, there is a technique taught in defensive drive techniques (with Disco/RRC/Defender/series/100 series) of using the lift of the inside front wheel to 'spin off' the power to a point where the vehicle settles back on to all four wheels. This allows a 'slingshot' out of tight bends etc.With LSD's etc this gets quite interesting and can involve the smell of adrenaline filling the vehicle

I've steered away form BFG for over twenty years. To much money for what you actually get. I'm no fan of Cooper either (apart from the AT3 which is brilliant) as I've had loads of issues with side wall cracking on them. I reckon for the money Maxxis and Hancook are unbeatable. I run Hankook RTO3's on the Disco now, a mud tyre that is quiet, superb in the claggy stuff, superb on the road, lasts a long old time and doesn't break the bank

The difflock/Hi Lo levers and gubbins are the same on the 300 tdi Disco. However there is a difference between Auto and Manuel (por favor?)You need like for like. So Auto 300Tdi fits Auto Td5

Just join GLASS and get use of TW2 - simples

I buy most of my parts form a local 4x4 specialist. They only sell what they would use on the vehicles they service. Sadly it's getting harder and harder for them to find decent parts

The joy of chasing rust Just a note: Heldite doesn't need a particularly clean environment to work, that and that it's in a funky retro bottle are excellent reasons to use it

Heldtite https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Heldite-Jointing-Compound-125ml.html

No photos but imagine the underside of a Discovery 200tdi bonnet and that black cylinder is exactly what I have a few of... including the clips

I find it makes it all rather relaxing. D low everywhere except downhill 😄

Do you need a decent cover the for the chest? I have a spare you are welcome to, along with a 200tdi air box You could rebuild the damage by using a copper woodruff key and building up around it with weld... The cam/oil way issue is where, when the engine is thrashed within an inch of it's life, after spending 100k pootling about (imagine LR 90 with 1.667 T box and 205/26's doing 80 on the M5) it can move forward in the cam chamber(?)/ This then exposing an oil gallery at the rear of the engine (handily accessed by the core plug at the back) and the oild pressure drops through the floor Only fix is strip to block and drop down to the local engine guru to have new white metal bearings installed and line bored

As Mike said, Cadence Braking is your friend. Although young folk today haven't got a clue what that means

Stick to just rear. The 110 prop is naturally a wide angle and works well on droop. Do fronts later if at all The Iron Man foam cell shock is an exceptional shock. Far, far better than it's poor cousin, the Britpart Cellular foam Raw 4x4 are built in Argentina - very good shock and a nice big body, so lots of oil

have to be next year for me

My only gripe with the Tdi/Td5/Most OM Engines/Isuzu B engines ect is the lack of rev range - too much torque too soon. removes the ability to skate over stuff, you just bury in. TBO, I prefer smaller high revving lumps. In my Suzuki days, running Twin Cam variations of the 1340/1600 lumps, with the rev limiter set to 8k was not only fun, but successful in most off road conditions. My Swift Sport is hilarious and revs willingly past 7k, you just run out of gears. The new Jimny is the dogs hairy bullocks

Interesting idea Type Approval for Santana and Iveco would open up a nice little selection of engines - the 2.5 and 2.8 Iveco IL4 DT's, the Fiat Chrysler 3.0litre multijet.... Fridge - which engine was that? The OM602 wasn't used in the Massive/PS10 and neither was the OM642

It's not a big power hike either and it comes with all sorts of issues - See TD. A good TD is a lovely engine, but a lovely engine with only another 21bhp

https://www.mercedes-benz.com.au/passengercars/mercedes-benz-cars/models/g-class/g-class-professional/explore/downloads/_jcr_content/swipeableteaserbox/par/swipeableteaser/interactions.attachments.0.g-class-professional-brochure.pdf Still available - just saying

I used to rally a vehicle with only 67bhp from factory and a tadge less torque. I squeezed that up to 80+ Tuning NA Diesels is easy. More fuel, more air, more exhaust I would suggest the following: Get it back to as close to OE factory spec as possible, so a proper service, including cam belt. Then set the timing to the factory marks Re-condition the injectors Fit the mil spec oil catch system I would whip the head off and have it trued, then fit a new head gasket, whilst it's off , get the ports blue printed to the exhaust and inlet gaskets and get the valve seats re-cut New water pump Flush the water jacket and rad Tuning: One of the very few times a 'sports' air filter is any use to man or beast, also the same for a cold air induction system The inlet manifold is restricted to hell and back so open it up to match the gaskets, but don't polish the insides as you need a bit of swirl The exhaust manifold requires the same treatment The exhaust is restrictive, so with a bit of careful engineering, adapt a 200Tdi exhaust to fit (2.25" dia) or get a decent 2.5" exhaust made form scratch (and lose the centre box) The pump is a LUCAS CAV rotary pump, so easy to advance or retard. Max advance will achieve 80mph on a flat road, with a 1.44:1 T box, but the amount of smoke produced is ridiculous. However the engine is 'Nails Hard so unlikely to go bang Get the gearing right Lose as much weight as possible from the vehicle Remember a slow vehicle, driven fast is more fun than a fast vehicle driven fast. Once you are used to the handling, grip is actually very good and so is CoG, so keep your momentum up! It's never going to be a sports car but it will be a hoot

Five years after fitting what was later to become The Boom-slang (originally £5 posted form China), I don't think there is an original part. Relays went first, then headlight connectors... Mines on a D1, so actually very easy to improve upon. I make them up for folk now...

In the five years since selling the 110 and buying the Disco, I've noticed in the last year or so that I get a wave from other Discovery drivers, even D3 and D4. I hadn't realised until I attended Simply Land Rover earlier this year, just how uncommon it is to see a 200Tdi Disco, especially one that hasn't been heavily modified, so I've sort of taken it that it's a bit like driving an early series and being waved at by Defender owners But on that, Defender drivers rarely wave. 90/110 drivers do; Series drivers are pretty good

I've moved over to LED solid state lights and trailer boards, as well as an excellent set of super cheap Chinese LED magnetic trailer lights Can I also suggest for You Tube entertainment you try the Welker farms channel - lost of engineering, great photography, big horsepower

that's interesting I've been looking at various set ups in services, trying to see what is what, but without alarming people too much My colleagues over in the DVSA are having a pogrom aimed at trailers at the moment, so they are all a bit busy for a chat