David Sparkes

I'd be surprised if there is more than one way to switch the fuel supply line from one tank to the other. So I'd suggest the Blue knob switches the fuel line, while the dashboard switch controls the gauge connection, and incidentally allows you to see how much fuel is in each tank without interrupting the supply. I think you will have to get under the vehicle with a torch, or, possibly, remove the seat over the control, then a blanking plate in the top of the seatbox, and get visual access that way. Regards.

OK, In the UK the Series ex-military 2 seater vehicles had two tanks, one under each front seat. This dual tank option was also available to civilian owners, the parts were listed in the normal Parts List, it's just that he Military were the most frequent user group. There was always a manually controlled valve to switch from one tank to the other. The bracket holding the valve incorporated two switches which ensured the single fuel gauge was connected to the tank in use. The lever for the valve was either on the side of the gearbox tunnel, (where it became the side of the footwell), or the lever poked through the front of the seat box. I'm thinking your blue knobbed control might be operating a manual valve Regards.

I was going to point to a recent thread on the S2C forum, but rereading your question I think you are asking about a grommet in the actual alloy bell-housing, rather than the one in the bodywork. If you mean the blanking grommet on the LH side of the bell-housing, it's 232604. If you mean the grommet having the shaft through it, it's 236281 Up to gearbox suffix ‘D’ inclusive, or 553262 From gearbox suffix ‘E’ onwards. All numbers get positive returns via a well known search engine. Regards.

For the blue knob, using Google translate ; 'cambio de depósitos' translates to 'change of deposits'. 'izquierdo o trasero' translates to 'Left or Rear'. 'derecho' translates to 'Right' How many fuel tanks are there? In the last picture I see what I think is the fuel filler at the rear of the Right Hand Side, so there is probably a rear tank (in between the main chassis rails). Is there also one under a front seat? For the gearbox generally https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/manual-gearboxes.html might tie in with what you have found; it gives guidance on where to find the gearbox number. I have a vague recollection that the Santana migrated to a single lever gearchange (away from the three lever Land Rover design). This single lever combined the High Low change into the main gearlever. Today, I have been unable to verify this. Heystee Automotive have some information about overdrives fitted to Santanas 'HST SuperDrive - is based on the original Santana GLR120A unit which was designed in the early 1980s in reaction to overdrive problems that occurred with the use of the more powerful 3,4 ltr. 6 cylinder diesel in the 109" Series IV at that time. '. Regards.

Have you looked through Military Mart? I've linked to Bags & Holdalls, but I seem to recall they have a wide range of 'stuff' that might be adapted to fulfill your need. Some of the prices seem to give good starting points for experimenting. I've looked, but never bought, yet. I seem to recall there is another place that will either make from scratch or adapt / personalise with a name or description you create, but I don't recall ... inspiration struck, details in a topic in the Series 2 Club Forum are now out of date. Matt, Guy Ropenall and Counter Rivet are all alter egos of the same person. Having looked a little harder, his website is rubbish, you will be best advised to contact him via an eBay ad and strike up a direct conversation. You will have to decide what you want before anyone can make / adapt it for you. Regards.

Just for certainty, in this image you mean the grey cover that has the number plate attached to it? Naturally I can't help directly, but visually identifying the part may help others to understand which part you are asking about. It should go without saying that if that isn't the part you need then an appropriate picture will help. Regards.

Thank you for the extra information (that I didn't have), it will come in useful. Regards.

Surely the point about the Radford bros product is that it contains the double bends of the S1 style, which appears similar to the S2A style. I appreciate that some of us have the equipment to introduce those bends to the straight S3 lever, so might still save money by buying a S3 lever you link to, but your comparison is a bits apples v pears, isn't it? I'm tempted to bend an S3 style to a S2A, have the correct BSF die, and even have a diagram showing the S2A bend dimensions. However I haven't actually checked whether a S3 lever is long enough to take the indirect (double bend) route, so this could be classed as a 'vapour build' 🙂

Are you fitting it to a S1 or a S2? (Will it fit a S2A era gearbox?) Regards.

Assuming the rattle does come from the main gear lever, and not the Hi-Lo lever, have you checked the locating bolt that fits in the RH side of the turret? This is to locate in a slot in the ball pivot to prevent the lever pivoting around. By repute the bolt, threading into the alloy housing, has a reputation for coming loose. If so, the rattle could be a very short prelude to the bolt falling out completely. Regards.

I found the old part number 607186. Ebay advert. Item 254646964870. I see they retail for a lot more. Western has a later number, although he part looks slightly different. Take your choice 🙂 Regards.

I see what you did there! Regards.

They look like relays, they might be perfectly OK, and it's the operate circuit that is broken. I think your best is to give people more detail of your 'German caravan' (name, model, etc), in the hope that someone else has details, and can help more directly. Does the 'device' containing the fuses, circuit board, etc, have words on the cover, box, or whatever? (Because the same unit might be used in other caravans, motorhomes, etc). Regards.

Just look at the frequencies involved, both for domestic wireless items I've listed and the remote control keyfob. Then compare them with the frequencies used for WiFi. Wikipedia seems a resource with common standards, frequently peer reviewed. Regards.

I don't have any way of finding interference sources, but recalling reported experiences from 2 decades ago, culprits could be defined as 'any' domestic wireless apperatus, EXCLUDING WiFi and Bluetooth. In the UK this leaves wireless doorbells, wireless baby alarms, wireless external weather stations (that reported to an internal base station), and remote garage door openers. Also indicted as 'electrically noisy' were wireless keyboards, used with PCs, and cash tills that reported overnight so stock could be reordered while the shop was closed. Railway stations on electrified lines were also a cause of problems, mainly for the very strong electrical signal cloud that occured when trains accelerated away from rest. The cash tills and railway stations normally made their presence felt when a car was parked nearby but would not restart. I understand wireless masts (not mobile phone masts) could also overwhelm the weak signal from a key fob, preventing the car from starting. The other point of interest from when I changed my alarm receiver, after parking too close to Milton Keynes railway station, was that once out of the box I could not tell the difference between the old and new reciever. I did look specifically, but as I say, this would be around year 2000. The 'improved' receiver at that time was not listed in the parts list, that only had interim models, the very latest was only in the Technical Service Bulletin. Regards.

After reading the report on the online Motor Sport site I watched the highlights via the web. While allowing that other races in different places might be more interesting, that event was very uninspiring. Given that it's a PR driven event, it became clear that the publicists had been drinking their own urine. Regards.

London seems to me to be a big place, and I understand high prices for buildings / floor area means labour costs are high to customers. What I'm getting at is that if you can be more precise with your whereabouts people may be able to give recommendations closer to your location, even if the garages concerned are outside the M25. I don't suppose you want to be travelling to somewhere the other side of the city. Edit. I now see that you have posted in the Discovery forum that you are in Kilburn, but I still think that you should update your profile to say that, as that location will be shown in every post you make. I can't help with the specifics, either with the vehicle or expertise local to you. Regards.

Just for additional clarity, if anyone values it, clicking the link brought up a black rectangle with a 'broken file' icon in the centre and a 'closure' X in the top right corner. No I don't know why I couldn't see it either, but while I have access, and an ID, to Facebook I don't use it very much at all. In general I can see images other people insert in their Facebook posts, so I'm quite happy to regard this incident as a anomaly individual to my PC and software setup. Just for completeness I checked my Firefox installation, and found it up-to-date. While the 64 bit Win 10 did have some updates available, installing them has made no difference. I did not stay silent so my 'social' conscience is clear, so I'm no longer concerned at all. Thankyou all for your responses, which show no major or common problem exists. Regards

Thanks for the thought, but I'm now retired so the buck stops with me 🙂 I had thought about the Mozilla Firefox PC browser blocking it, but they normally announce when they are 'helping' me from visiting an inapproprite link 🙂 I wondered if there was some way to engineer access without asking the poster, but when I tried to examine the link in 'Page Info' it did not look viable. Omitting the leading HTTPS, the link destination reads '://scontent.fbrs4-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/166970452_1821724807988645_9119371825507198847_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=FO0stuK5uLAAX-0HHDb&_nc_ht=scontent.fbrs4-1.fna&oh=2e8d75d60f0576ecf79117f1daeaa412&oe=608BE260' I decided to 'ask the question' in case I wasn't the only one affected. What browser are you using? On a PC, or Tablet, or Mobile? Regards.

That's good, thankyou. Regards

The link you have chosen doesn't appear to be effective; no image is displayed. Regards.

From comments posted by others on the S2C Forum, 'modern' canvas does not last as long as previous versions did, apparently the older canvas was treated with chemicals that the manufacturers cannot use now. I don't recall seeing a consensus on what a person should do, but it's probably true to say I don't have a canvas problem, because I don't have one fitted. Posts from 2020. Some may recall that I posted some time back about needing a new hood on my 88". Since owning my Series II, over the last 20 years I've put 2 new hoods on it, both from Exmoor Trim (ET). The first one, purchased in July 2003, lasted 12 years and 4 months. The vehicle was outside in all weathers, and I never treated the hood at all. The next one, purchased in November 2015, has only lasted until now - 4 months short of 5 years! Nothing has changed in either my usage or where my vehicle is kept. What HAS changed, is the ET specification. I quote from their website "We use a 100% Natural Cotton Fibre for Exmoor Canvas Hoods and we have a lot of input into this material at the point of production. Exmoor's 18oz Natural Cotton Canvas over the years has changed with many of the old chemicals used in the past, no longer being used. The chemicals we now use are very environmentally based and many are organic, for us this is a big factor and part of our environmental strategy. We appreciate that this does reduce the lifespan of the product compared to the heavily treated canvas of the past." So that explains my unhappiness with my 2nd tilt. Also a very good example of buyer beware. I mentioned to ET when I bought my 2nd tilt, that the hood seemed different, and though I wasn't completely happy with it, I wasn't unhappy enough to return it. Had I known this is ET's policy, I would have gone elsewhere, and I will do so now. The tilt bought in 2003 cost £201.00 plus carriage and lasted over 12 years, the one bought in 2015 has lasted less than 5 years and cost £320.00 plus carriage. A new one is now £351.69 plus carriage. I don't think I'll be buying another one from ET, environment notwithstanding. For the full thread, follow this link. This link connects to more experiences, from different people Regards.

Faced with the same problems I was thinking of a pit under a lift, possibly a large pit so 'half' the height of the lift would be below floor level. I decided that getting a floor pad built to the required configuration would be too much struggle, and thought 'did I want to be walking down into the pit, and up again, every time I wanted to do something?'. If you include a safe stairway at the ends or sides a lot of floor space is lost, to say nothing of covering the stairway over, for safety, when it's not in use. I decided against that configuration. I'm now thinking of a conventional Permitted Development building, with an adjacent concrete pad and 4 post lift mounted outside. Fortunately I have the ground area, but have yet to progress to the 'final solution'! Regards.

I will say I generally enjoyed my ownership of a V12 XJS. As with most of my previous vehicles that I also enjoyed, I am not looking to go back. Regards.

More than 'how much do I want' is how does it get from the UK to Zimbabwe? Within the UK we have access to courier firms where the buyer makes the arrangements and all the seller has to do is print off the address label, sent as an electronic file, then stick the label onto a reasonably packed parcel, and meet the collection appointment made by the courier. That's what I'd like to happen; I don't know what you can work out from Zimbabwe. Off the top of my head I can only think of Hermes, but Parcel2Go might offer a service, as might DHL. Others on this forum might suggest other couriers. For costing purposes assume the parcel will be 600mm long, 100mm wide and 100mm high. Weight including packing will be less than 1000g. The collection post code is DE55, so not an extra cost area of the UK. Regards.