David Sparkes

Normally in these circumstances I would look in a parts listing for the part number of the nut, then see the part number can be broken back to a thread, and therefore spanner size, but I am confused by the description you have given, so cannot research further. You say it's a 'diff pinion flange nut ... at the Front of the vehicle, gearbox (not axle) end', but then say 'I thought this would be ... like the front'. So, are you talking about the diff or the transfer case? Are you talking about the nut securing the front or rear diff / transfer case prop shaft flange? Regards.

Which type of Range Rover is it? The type of engine would be useful information; if it is a diesel engine is it turbo charged? De quel type de Range Rover s'agit-il ? Le type de moteur serait une information utile; si c'est un moteur diesel est-ce qu'il est turbo ? Regards / Salutations. Translation was by Google Translate. / La traduction a été effectuée par Google Translate.

Sent via PM. Regards.

Thank you, I thought the remit extended beyond S2s, but I wasn't certain of the extent so didn't mention the possibility. Regards.

You have both supported the contention that I tried to put across, that what worked 30 or 7 years ago is unlikely to apply 'now'. The S2C Vehicle Registration Officer (VRO) is involved 'now', building experience and contacts that give the best chance of success. Manage expectations, 'best chance of success' does NOT mean 'guaranteed success'. Regards

I'm not going to answer your question, because there is a better person around who handles these sort of situations for Members of the Series 2 Club, membership will cost £21.00. (vro@series2club.co.uk). I appreciate you are not talking about a Series 2, but the experience with the DVSA has been hard won and is invaluable. For instance, you may well find your Gaydon certificate is only suitable for wall decoration in the smallest room in your house, or your man cave, whichever you feel is most appropriate (after the event). The general advice is 'don't try this yourself'. One false move will not just burn your fingers, but burn your chance of achieving what you want. Regards.

Jones Springs make their own complete multi leaf springs, so have the facilities to make a single leaf, and the necessary fox clips to hold the spring pile together. Whether they want to take on the job is a matter for discussion between you and them. I suggest you take some pictures before you contact them. Remember to specify the wheelbase of your vehicle, and to say if it is a front or rear spring. Regards.

When it comes down to it, I only recall fully rebuilding two engines, but on the first one I lubricated the bearing running surfaces, tightened the nuts gradually, checking the crankshaft rotation after each tightening step. At one point the crank locked 'solid'. I slackened the nuts slightly and the crank rotated OK. I then tightened the caps again, but this time I rotated the crank after each cap was tightened. I noticed that, while the crank was slightly stiffer to turn, it eased as the crank rotated. My conclusion was that if 'too much' oil was present it could not easily be 'squeezed out' simply by tightening the nuts, some rotation had to take place to allow the oil to flow out. I followed the same practice on the second engine and all was OK. Regards.

A file photo of an installation may help, although it isn't of my vehicle so I cannot be certain it matches your configuration. Regards.

The fix was a steel rod bolted (with rubber bushes) to a bracket mounted on a cross member. The engine tie bar 504606 was part of the kit associated with the fitment of an eight bladed fan, commonally installed to increase air flow in hot climates, or while the vehicle was stationary with the engine running to charge batteries used by radio equipment. Regards.

OK, thanks.

I don't doubt what they say about the dowels. The picture appears to show clear air space between the flywheel teeth and the pinion teeth. Regards.

I cannot say anything with authority about dowels per se, but I think I see a problem with the starter pinion gear ever engaging with the flywheel ring gear. If the flywheel is incorrect it throws any current questions about dowels into the long grass. Regards.

It seems the same plunger was used for the earlier engines, they list the ball as a separate part, 3748, if you want to add one. I have no experience of the 200TDi Edit. Having now found my '200TDi' manuals I note that the parts diagram of the oil pump shows the ball BUT it is not numbered or identified in the text. The workshop manual, covering the reassembly of the oil pump, shows the basic plunger and spring, but NOT the ball. This suggests to me that, for some reason, LR did not include the ball in the 200TDi. Perhaps they wanted 'some' oil flow, even when the plunger was held closed. Regards.

How can people give any sort of sensible or appropriate recommendations when there is no location in your profile? Regards

I'd suggest that isn't Black with colour tracer, but rather colour with Black tracer. I'll go futher and suggest the colour might be faded purple rather than pink. While I can't think what might be Pink or Purple with Black, in general, Colour with Black tracer normally means it's the feed to something that has an Earth the other side of it. Typical examples are circuit breaker points and horns. Regards.

The 'starter solenoid gets hot' has given me an idea. The starter solenoid has two coils, one takes a lot of current and is powerful enough to move the pinion into mesh with the flywheel. The second coil takes a lot less current, but is still powerful enough to hold the pinion in place once it has been moved by the first coil. The electrical changeover takes place after the pinion move is complete, because it's at this point that full power is passed to the motor. What appears to be happening is that the high power operate coil is energised, but either it doesn't move far enough or the big meaty contacts that power the motor are not making good electrical contact. The constant operation of the high power operate coil is why you feel the solenoid is hot. As the starter appears to operate OK once warm (during the day) I'd suggest it is not a catastrophic failure, but curing it will involve removing the starter motor, stripping and cleaning the solenoid, pinion mechanism, and the big electrical contacts, which may be damaged by any arcing that has taken place. There may be a couple of hours work there, more if you aren't used to it. Regards.

It's not unknown for suppliers to mismatch nuts to Ubolts - That's assuming the nuts were included with the new Ubolts. I suggest removing a U bolt then try a nut to see if it is a thread clash, or something else. 2nd thoughts - are you sure the head of the single central bolt is correctly in the hole in the spring seat. Regards.

No I'm not going, but your repeated mentions of the show keep reminding me of one aspect. The last I'd seen you have mounted your rooftop tent, and your visit to the show is associated with your future use of this tent. I am reminded of a forum topic some years ago when people went to a public show with their new roof tent in place. When they returned to their vehicle the vehicle was still there, but with a damaged roof where the tent had been roughly removed. That was possibly at Billing, which had a 'rougher' reputation than Peterborough, however I just wanted to caution you of the risks involved in leaving a mounted roof tent in a open car park. Overall I'd rather be alarmist before the event than leave any comment until afterwards. Regards.

Personal choice of course, I've just seen a USA person enthuse over a S3 based fire engine with a rigid roof, on the basis it would make a good camper. My reminder is that any LR with a chassis underneath will have a very high floor. If any adult user is near to standard height, and never wishes to stand up, then there will be no problem; otherwise life will seem a little cramped. Regards.

I don't know how much you have paid, but judging from the small information you have the vendor didn't 'sell' it very well, so it's probable you have done well. Especially as the advert says Bits4Landys are out of stock. I'll attach some pictures of one installed, in the UK, but don't ignore the details in the advert; the passenger side wing will have to come off to install the box. Another relevant comment I have on file is "Don't know about fitting one but the lid is fairly easy to get on and off when the box is in position. My 109 2A and S2B FC , both ex military, had them fitted. I do not know whether it is normal but both of mine were not waterproof. The water channel at the rear of the bonnet dumps its contents onto the boxes and some used to get inside.". Regards.

Those do not date from the Series era, although they could be fitted to one. The true Series rear Lift and Tow eyes are D rings, but larger than the ones fitted to the front bumper. The rear rings are on a 'squarer' base plate, whereas the fronts have tapered base plates. The rears also need shaped spacer plates, which can be home fabricated, to facilitate over lapping the bodywork mounting tabs on the rear cross-member. They are included in both the Lightweight and Defender Parts listings. Note that the ones shown by the OP are for the rear, whereas the ones shown by Stellaghost are for the front. The rears have the attachent face relieved so the unit will overlap the body mounting tab on the rear crossmember. I will attach two files from parts listings. The 'Military vehicle' is the lightweight. The other diagram, from the Defender, shows in better detail howe the eye overlaps the body mounting tab. In addition, if you want bumperettes, for the civilian Series 2A, you need ones made for the Defender, NOT ones made for the Lightweight, as the crossmembers are different shapes. Regards.

Sorry, I couln't resist .... Looks like Trailwise ID NU0249-01, roughly between Bear's House and Sea House, south of Berwick-Upon-Tweed. I note in passing that TW2 now allows photos to be added to their Comments reporting use. The Northumberland Definitive Map doesn't use plain English terms such as BOAT, calling it '203/006' instead. Well Done for taking the trouble to find, and drive it. Regards.

The Barter Books car park can be a little tight if driving a larger vehicle, or one with restricted manoeuvrability. Having driven in, you may have to reverse all the way out again!! Just saying 🙂

2 questions, mainly to eliminate the obvious ... Do you have the key for the lock? If so, why do you want to remove the barrel? What does the other side of the lock assembly look like - any clues there? Regards.