Happyoldgit

I used to firmly say I would never buy new vehicles for all the usual reasons. However I am older now, way past the halfway mark in my life, had a full licence and driving since the mid '70's, and whereas some of the first vehicles were far from new, over the past decade or so I've bought various vehicles both old, new, yes brand new and nearly new. Hypocrite? Perhaps but so what, we invariably change as we grow older and no matter how hard we cling to any fortune or property we amass during our life we cannot take it with us when we die. I have grown to rather like having a manufacturers warranty, it certainly beats laying on cold concrete or frosty grass outside fixing something because I just have to use it next day like I used to. That said I'm happy to still do that with hobby vehicles. Personal choice. Personal circumstances.

Disc or drum brake? Can you get the hub off complete with wheel?

Lots of interesting, insightful and informative discussion about the Grenadier here. I have been on their mailing list for sometime and received invites to their various events but as I am still immune suppressed have not been willing to run the risk of getting out and about to this or that event. This means like a lot of us I am having to rely upon the various releases from Ineos, third party videos and what is being said on here etc. With what we know so far about this new vehicle, and with some of the conjecture in mind, I thought it would be interesting to see how many here are contemplating buying one? Me? I was ready to put down a deposit. Was. However I have grown weary of the drip, drip, tease, tease marketing style ....oh and the price. I'm now in my sixties, after my recent and wholly unexpected brush with the Big C recently I would, when the time comes, dearly like to buy a new vehicle that is likely to be reliable, easy and convenient to service - or get serviced, be capable of doing what all the previous Land Rovers have done and be as well nailed together as the pickups I have run and used around my place and elsewhere plus comfy day to day family transport. Despite how some rather disparagingly refer to them neither of which were poorly made, throw away or cheap. So, who is contemplating buying one of the Grenadier's then?

That does seem to be the case. These videos and media releases bring one word to mind 'teasing' which of course can be an effective marketing ploy.

To buck the trend here... My last 3 or 4 Defenders were bought by me brand new and traded in after 4 years back in original condition having had any additional equipment removed. I kept the last 110 Puma XS CSW for only two years as I got totally brassed off with the yo yo-ing back and forth to the dealer's who seemed incapable of rectifying obvious faults followed by a change of policy regarding courtesy vehicles. What should have been a vehicle that I planned to keep a long time turned into a chore to own so it went and was replaced by a 3.2 Auto Ranger which did the job without issue. That vehicle has just been replaced by a new Isuzu D Max V Cross and it's a nice place to be. Years ago my Land Rovers were older so I had no qualms about chopping and changing stuff. If I stay in remission and find a sensibly priced Series in mainly original condition I will probably treat it the same as the ones I owned decades ago but don't plan on returning on laying in the dirt fettling and repairing day to day vehicles at gone midnight as I need it for a job the next day. Those days are gone.

If you have Farcebook take a look at this... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/942157293381001/

Very

Ain't getting involved in a younger v older driving styles thing. Nope, no way...

yes he is a bit of an .... ...acquired taste. yes, that's it, and acquired taste

I can see the logic but suspect clutch components will still wear prematurely. I do wonder if some of the many mishaps at junctions and such are down to the taught urge to get a move on so people are not actually looking and responding to what is there but sometimes missed. Of course it was ever thus but people seem to be willing to pull out in front of close approaching traffic far more these days.

On a broader note. I was amazed how my kids were both taught by two different professional, full time, driving instructors the importance of keeping traffic flowing. How they should not come to a dead stop at junctions if they could help it but rather to keep rolling while you check if it is clear to proceed. How it is important to keep your foot on the clutch and vehicle in first gear when near the front at traffic lights and not to make use of engine braking. They both passed their tests within the last five years and were told that these things and others are what an examiner will be looking for during the practical test. Many aspects are so different how I was taught to drive [by a police examiner] around 46 yers ago so much so that I feel postively uncomfortable with how they drive whenever I am a passenger in their vehicles. Both are good, considerate drivers but the desire to keep shuffling on means the risks of actually not seeing something an approaching vehicle or bike are higher now.

Understood Mike. This is quite a big issue in the UK at present but appreciate it is could be viewed as insignificant when viewed from elsewhere. Interesting to see how quickly day to day normality is disrupted by a combination of various factors though. Anyway, we are in danger of entering into a meta discussion that will probably prompt more OT stuff. Onwards and upwards as they say. I had to go out to pick some items I'd won in the local auction yesterday afternoon. I wanted to get some Derv but not one place around town [south Norfolk] had any.

All the farmers around these parts use pickups [not just Japanese] either with canopies or without and seem to manage very well. The last agricultural Defender around here went a while back.

No. Threads develop and encompass current affairs [in the UK in this case].

No Derv to be had in my bit of South Norfolkshire this afternoon.

I heard that interview as well, it highlights how incredibly complex and interconnected this and other issues or crises usually are. What appears to be a straightforward solution potentially impacts in areas removed from the initial problem which in turn creates seemingly ad infinitum issues elsewhere.

I am still interested but it will have to be good and well nailed together to get me to spend that amount on it.

I quite agree, I also think social media has much to answer for as well. Ease of communication to a potential audience of thousands + is one thing but some of the drivel being shared just proves that two short planks are probably more intelligent that some humans.

Yep, put me off. I like the vehicles but I wanted to see clear pricing and just couldn't be bothered to investigate further

If the queues at all the service stations I have seen around here are anything to go by it would appear that the media has convinced gullible Joe Public that the end of the world is nigh in terms of deliveries of petrol and diesel are concerned.

Clarkson & Co.

This has done the rounds some old vehicle groups to which I belong just recently. I take no credit for it whatsoever. Now I am no expert on these matters so if this contains iffy information please don't have a go at me... The great Ethanol debate: A question that is constantly being asked right now, particularly with the introduction of E10, is whether Ethanol based fuel will harm my bike? As a previous industrial chemist and owner of several classic bikes and cars I decided to address this controversial subject and provide answers to many of the questions being asked. Hopefully, this will lead to an explanation on the consequences of using Ethanol based fuel and address what changes need to be made and what don’t. Using Ethanol based fuel basically comes down to a case of damage limitation. Some of the questions being asked right now include: Will Ethanol based fuel corrode my fuel tank? Will Ethanol based fuel corrode my carburettor? Will Ethanol based fuel attack my fuel pipes? Will Ethanol based fuel attack rubber seals and gaskets? Does 2 stroke oil mix properly with Ethanol based fuels? Does Ethanol based fuel increase the risk of engine seizures? Does Ethanol based fuel give the same performance as non-Ethanol based fuel? How long can Ethanol based fuels be stored for? Will a fuel stabiliser work to prevent moisture absorption and increase storage life? Can Ethanol be removed from fuel? Are there any non-Ethanol fuels still available? The main problem with Ethanol is that it is hygroscopic which means that it has an affinity to absorb moisture from the air. It is this water that causes the ensuing damage since it will, over time, corrode many of the metal parts it comes into contact with. Needless to say, the actual conditions required for the fuel to absorb significant levels of moisture must be considered. The greater the headspace in the fuel tank, the greater the chance of moisture absorption due to increased surface area of exposed fuel. Remember that fuel tanks are essentially vented to atmosphere, as are gravity fed motorcycle carburettors. Moreover, the higher the relative humidity, the greater the chance of moisture absorption. Excessive fluctuations in air temperature can also cause condensation to form which is quickly absorbed by the Ethanol. The best way to reduce moisture absorption to an absolute minimum is therefore to keep the tank topped up to the brim wherever possible and avoid exposure to severe temperature fluctuations. Keeping the bike under cover helps significantly here. Now onto the damage caused by absorbed moisture in the fuel. The main question is whether the absorbed moisture causes corrosion of metal parts? If the fuel is used before moisture build up becomes significant then corrosion damage is unlikely. However, if the fuel is left for any length of time then excessive moisture build up will start to cause corrosion damage particularly to steel and aluminium parts. Fuel tanks, fuel taps and carburettors are the main problems here and it is not uncommon to witness significant corrosion of carburettor internals when left standing over time containing Ethanol based fuels. Soldered components such as carburettor floats are also quite vulnerable. Ethanol based fuels should be used within a couple of months at the very most and drained from the tank and carburettors if left any longer than this. In any event, modern fuels do not store very well since the octane rating deteriorates if left for any longer than this. Ethanol based fuels are also more unstable than non-Ethanol fuels. Now onto rubber components. The term rubber is a bit of a misnomer. Seals, gaskets and pipes are made from a wide range of elastomers including Nitrile (Buna N), Neoprene, EPDM, Viton etc. etc. and this is where the problem lies. Whilst some elastomers exhibit very good resistance to Ethanol, many do not. Generally, motorcycle fuel pipes are made from neoprene which is extremely resistant to Ethanol so no problem there. However, many seals and gaskets are made from Nitrile (Buna N) which has very poor resistance to Ethanol. Ethanol can cause these seals and gaskets to swell over time whilst some elastomers can become quite brittle. It’s best to swap out any problematic seals and gaskets in the fuel system (taps, carburettors etc.) for a more resistant material, though this is easier said than done since many manufacturers and OEM’s do not state what material has been used in the manufacture of these items. This is a difficult one and it’s often a case of suck it and see. If Ethanol based fuels appear to be causing problems with seals and gaskets it’s best to replace the affected items then avoid Ethanol based fuels altogether. Unless, of course you can identify and obtain Ethanol resistant seals and gaskets made from more resilient materials which exhibit very good resistance to Ethanol. Most modern engine and fuel systems (post 2000) have already been manufactured incorporating seals and gaskets made from more resilient materials. A popular misconception about Ethanol based fuels is that they can increase the risk of engine seizure. There is no real credible evidence that Ethanol based fuels increase the risk of seizure despite the fact that a 10% Ethanol addition will have a slight (2.6%) leaning effect. Moreover, 2 stroke oils mix with Ethanol based fuels just as well as they do with non-Ethanol fuels. The idea that Ethanol based fuels can contribute to engine seizure is a myth that should be ignored. However, it should be noted that the calorific value (energy content) of Ethanol is less than that of Petrol so we can expect a small difference in performance when using Ethanol based fuels though hardly significant with 10% Ethanol (E10). In some countries like Australia where 85% Ethanol (E85) fuels exist this has become more of an issue but UK fuels currently contain a maximum of 10% Ethanol so not really an issue. Another common question is whether a fuel stabiliser will work to prevent moisture absorption and increase storage life? In a nutshell, No. Fuel stabilisers do not work to prevent moisture absorption and do very little to retain the octane rating of a fuel during long term storage. Stay away from them, you are wasting your money! There are some people out there suggesting that Ethanol can be removed from fuel by mixing water with the fuel to soak up the Ethanol and subsequently draining off the remaining fuel layer. This does actually work but it’s all a bit of a faff and then there’s the issue of disposing of the remaining Ethanol/water mixture safely. It’s better to try and source a non-Ethanol based fuel in the first place such as Esso Synergy Supreme+ Unleaded 97 or Synergy Supreme+ 99. These are still to be made available in the UK so I am told. Although the forecourt pumps have E5 labels on them, Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually Ethanol free (except in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). Also, Super Unleaded will still be available for another 5 years which contains only (upto) 5% Ethanol. The less Ethanol the better. I think we’re getting the picture now. Another option, should an owner wish to keep a bike fuelled up during longer term storage is to consider filling up with an Alkylate fuel which is Ethanol free and is very stable during long term storage. This is available and sold under the brand name Aspen in the UK and whilst it does work well it is very expensive. Indeed, there are definite consequences when using Ethanol based fuel in older engines. In summary I would recommend using non-Ethanol based fuel where available or look out for Super Unleaded which contains only 5% Ethanol. Where it is not available, I would recommend that anyone using Ethanol based fuel keep it in the tank only during the active season when the bike is frequently being started and run to ensure that the fuel does not stay for too long in the bike. All the while, keep a watchful eye on any seals and gaskets within the fuel system and ensure that fuel pipes are made from neoprene. It’s easy enough to source neoprene fuel pipe and it’s not expensive. When the time comes to lay the bike up, ensure that all Ethanol based fuels are drained from the tank and carburettors and flush them through with paraffin. It is the lesser of two evils since fuel taps and carburettors are best stored filled with fuel to prevent seals from drying out but not with Ethanol based fuels. If possible, fill the tank with enough Alkylate (Aspen) fuel just to be able to flood the fuel tap and carburettor for Winter storage. Other than that, a light coating of 2 stroke oil mixed with a little paraffin can be used to coat the inside of the fuel tank to prevent corrosion.

I don't watch Top Gear, stopped it when the three clowns turned it into a comedy show. Our views on the vocal attributes of the chap in the video obviously differ, you have your views, I have mine 🙂

Hmmmmmm. Those that passed even the most rigorous test can still lack common sense / act impulsively at times. A qualification does not guarantee perfect performance and behaviour for evermore.

I'm the same but like to call it maturity 😁