reb78

4 and 6 bolt are a straight swap (inc drop arms appropriate for each). My 110 started life with a 6 bolt but it got a bit wandery so i bought a new 4 bolt from adwest in the days when they were reasonably priced. I dont recall doing anything other than unbolting one and bolting the new up.

I run 28psi front and 36psi rear unloaded, 42psi+ if loaded or towing on the rear (depends on what i am pulling/carrying). For me the 28psi on the front took a bit of experimentation - best steering feel and wear acheived at that pressure. Mine are BFG ATs 265/75/16

My amp is in the battery box and I have a 10inch sub mounted into the rear of a custom made cubby box. The front speakers can be specced up in size with spacers made of MDF - this brings them out and so allows an increase in diameter and depth of speaker (I have 4 inch 2 ways in the front) but be careful of knee room. For the rear, those mudstuff offerings just seemed ridiculous - they put the speakers low down and ready to get muffled by luggage and covered in rubbish. So I made speaker boxes to fit into the rear corners of the roof and have 6 inch three ways in there. Its a nice setup. None of the 'normal' speakers are that big so not bassy but the sub does that once you have it setup properly and the fader balanced as you want.

I have RRC seats in my 110, which I think makes it about the same as a 90 with the bulkhead removal bar? I am 6ft. Not sure that helps but they are a lot deeper than the standard seat and I fit in fine. I am not the slimmest and not the biggest person you will ever meet. Decidedly average really... Is that a tablet or a modern head unit replacement in there?

I don't know if this helps, but its almost as if there is incomplete combustion until you get going? I say this as I can get something like your signs if I am running on SVO and I mess around for too long with the engine idling when cold. I try not to do it but on the odd occasion where I do (hitching up a trailer or something), when I do then go to pull away, I create a smokescreen like battleships used in WW2 to mask their exact positions from enemy ships, and then when that clears it runs absolutely fine. I imagine this is burning off unburnt fuel. Its bad for the engine so I avoid situations where it happens when on SVO and try to just start and go (initial run if from home is straight up a 1 i n6 road for a mile so its warm by the top) but occasionally its not possible to start and head straight off.

I am sure I spoke to Pete Bell years ago and he pretty much said not to bother. It was mostly around the fact that I wanted more top end. I have what I want at the bottom end which is where the VNT is most effective. Trade off with more top end is that you would need a bigger turbo and if it is not VNT I think that would have an effect at the bottom of the rev range. So I think what we need for both is a bigger VNT turbo that is properly controlled...

Double Post. Please delete

I don't know. We had a claim with LV one year (other half in the D2) and another with Cornish Mutual (I did a fairground ride impression on a wet M4 in our BMW one night near Swindon and hit everything going but walked away) and both were pretty good. Bought the D2 back but they valued the car at twice the amount I did and I put it back on the road for £400 so we actually made money out of that accident. The BMW... the loss adjuster was speechless that i got out of the car and walked away having seen in it (the roof was the only thing not damaged). They paid up very quickly though, although about £1000 less than we wanted but not a lot I could do about it. All over five years ago now thankfully, but Cornish Mutual premiums have stayed the same with about ten pounds of the previous years premiums for years.

I agree that none are good for you, but i have heard bad stories about 2k nearly killing people

But 2k needs more expensive and involved respiration gear??

Haha. No worries. No sag at all on mine but I would say that if its the backing and not just the liner then i would attach (either bond to the back or even screw) some ali strips across the width of the backing on the side against the roof. Ali wont rot and would be strong enough IMO if supported in the middle by the fir tree fasteners. On mine, just renewing everything got it back to where it was supposed to be.

All he lists are on the same fuse (certainly on 200tdi and TD variants, not sure about others) if that makes any difference here?

I did a write up on here somewhere. Materials used etc. Mine was one of the most succesful interior repairs I have done on my land rover. If the liner 'board' itself is ok then new lining and fir tree fasteners and it will look good as new.

Mine didnt get further than part of a quote. Seemed to struggle with the words Land Rover. I soon gave up. Footman James werent much better.

Where else are you going to route it though? Theres not exactly another obvious/convenient route from the front connection.

Not sure you need to bend it if you can solder. 4x 90 degree bends and some straight pipe should work?

I am pretty sure Gwyns props are Bailey Morris from the ones I have had before.

My National Luna is mentioned somewhere in this thread. Very pleased with it too.

Having read this and dredged up research in my mind when i was looking a long time ago you need the incartec iso adapter and patch lead specific to your headunit.

I domt think the steering wheel will work with that though? I think it needs another lead to patch that in? Pretty sure Ashleighs link will make the steering comtrols work too.

A wiring diagram might help...😐

Its progress (apparently)

I switched to a brass rad plug for exactly the reason you have found with yours. Right size can be found on ebay and theybdont dissolve like aspirin!

This ^^^ copes fine. Can find them on ebay for not too much (by the time you have wrecked three or four cheapies the Wurth ones seem a bargain)

Plus one for that as I am looking to sell mine... as I have too many cars! Haha. I also have a D3 and its a fine car and nowhere near the trouble I was expecting.