steve b

No problem, have you gone genuine or OEM? I fitted an OEM to a D2 last year and it failed/lost calibration within 200 miles so this year on a Defender TD5 I went Genuine (6 months ago) and all is fine. Steve

Another clear indicator of the rapid reduction in manufacturing and material quality of later original Defenders , much like the alucrapium used for rear bodies. That friction weld process was started with the first RRC back in the late 60's and worked very well . No amount of retro-bolt in brackets is going to keep the failure safe enough to be stable Steve

What is the cab/front end from? Steve

...I was thinking the perfect work truck with either a 6BT or at least a 350 SBC . Looks built and I do like that, was it factory or is it someone's dream? Great spot Mike. Steve

Very nice and very subtle. I like it. Steve

you've asked before , I need to do a deep search of the house and find the build photo's which are all pre-digital and somewhere in my large collection of roll film prints , then copy with the DLSR and then I'll have something to show of the build . As @Stellaghost can confirm it's looking a bit untouched at the moment waiting for me to have time to sort out gearbox and transfer box plus a few other things.... It may have been a mistake to buy a temporary car when it failed.... Steve

Built by Bill VanSnorkel , an outstanding bush Engineer who has posted on here several times , it has a super low crawler gear with the portals built from bits of Series transfer boxes with fabbed casings . ...This balanced articulation is something many strive for and some achieve An amazing build. Steve

It could be an intermittent fault with the air flow meter - it does show symptoms just like that. Unplug it and try it , less top end but good pull away and if it's consistent then it's unlikely to be turbo related. Steve

It's 6.5" wider and with a standard height screen it had to have 4 wipers , they are a bit slow when it's not soaking mowing on slopes or where there are slopes is not easy, you're lucky the deck didn't get involved. You need one of these keep the healing going ....and the build Steve

off-road tyres don't mean you should , speaking as a Lawn mower design engineer ( in a previous life) I'll dig out some pic's of my series 109 on coils with a wide body and share with you , this is an interesting build. Here you are Steve

A bit short notice but there is a Land Rover show at Stonham Barns centre in mid-Suffolk on the 9th October, the first LR specific show there. (they hold classic car / motorbike /Custom car etc. shows through the season). I'll probably take a look so keep an eye out for an old beardy bloke Steve

Yes , most definitely, a cheap and worthwhile upgrade. Steve

Dual rate springs can be spec'd for longer travel without dis-locating, maybe not challenge levels of travel but for road going and off road it's probably plenty. Not forgetting the front and rear winches and possibly diff-locks... The D2 isolator with studs for the front fits Defender/RRC/D1 . The isolator is quite thick - 20mm ish. Steve

Welcome to the forum, The first question: is the red lever in neutral ? If it is in high try it in low or high FWD - remote chance a rear half shaft has sheared? Steve

Hi Tony I'd imagine the seal land is 2.500" too , an email to Turner Engineering should confirm that. Measuring a new two piece rear main seal ID might be useful too. Steve

My WSM only has main bearing diameter listed- 2.500" std with undersize in 0.010" increments to 2.460" max. If I need info that I can't find , a quick call or email to Frida at Turner engineering usually provides the facts. Steve

It was done in 2008 by a british farmer in a very similarly built 110. I assume this new attempt is in the one shown in Richard Hammonds workshop that they painted and landlord Hadrian fabbed the float system. A challenging trip , the Bering sea is not the friendliest place... Steve

On the wheels , I use a lever bar between the BJ securing bolt head and the axle mounting face to try and lift it up. Can you mount a video camera underneath to view the rear axle nose from the side and and rock it forward in gear then back in reverse? If the nose is going up/down then it will be the A frame joint or bushes or the trailing arm bushes Steve

hockey stick to axle bush(es) ? A clunk is not a noise the R380 makes? Output splines on the R380? Steve

Not that different to the Tdi I'd suspect. That is very light indeed , you need some soft ply tyres to suit now. Shame ATV/Mule tyres don't come in your size Good result Steve

That's a very tidy job you've done Tom, panels look good quality too. Steve

A plastic bag over the reservoir neck and replace the cap reduces drain out Steve

Yes - any free dirt/rust will damage gears and bearings . As FF says mag drain plugs are very worthwhile to collect any free metallic flakes but starting with clean internal surfaces is a must. If it's off the vehicle and stripped bare you could take it to a local HGV yard - most have steam cleaners Steve

Removing the diff and everything including the stub axles will show it's true state. A good pressure/steam wash would sort it or a 5" stove flue brush and plenty of brake cleaner by hand, finished off with a rag ball on a string to wipe any residue out followed by lots of oil checks and changes as needed. Replace all seals and check the seal lands for scoring while you're in there. Also clean the diff gear set then clean it again Steve

I would agree with this. Unbolt the MC from the servo can and inspect the piston end and bore for fluid. No pipes need to be disconnected to do this and with a small G clamp the piston can be pushed in to see more bore. Drum or disc on the back? Steve