discomikey

I had a look too, maybe they can't do it without the hubs anymore? Shame really. Might be worth giving them a ring and asking about it?

i think water meth injection is a little OTT for this application. and like Carloz states, its keeping it cool under low speed short bursts of hard power (off road, spooling up to overtake, towing etc) that is the most important for me to try and keep cool. I don't have any issues with heat at all once up to cruising speed. I will be replacing the servicables in my engine aswell (injectors included) as i think its not running quite right at the moment. The injectors after all have completed over 250k miles, and quite a few hard miles too!

37 tyres not sure on the wheel size

get a long screwdriver (or socket extension) and put the blade against the suspect component while the engine is running. put your ear to the other end of the screwdriver and listen. it becomes very clear what the noise is coming from if you probe around a few suspect things!

my book states that lifting and pulling equipment should generally have a FOS of 8-9, i realise that doesn't really help with your weight saving but then a block of ali in compression should be able to take a fair load!

The only real way to tell is to anchor the winch to something solid and pull against something solid with a load cell in line till the motor stalls and record the highest load seen. Unfortunately not everyone has access to load cells big enough as they aren't Cheap!Theoretical calculations (in this instance) are only really useful as a validation as there are many factors which they will not account for

I have a very useful engineering reference book at work it features factors of safety for different applications I'll take a look in it tomorrow

Those 2 m10 threaded holes which you will see on that .pdf I sent you

when you bolt it back in, make sure the bolts which thread into the transfer box from the front aren't too long as they can foul on the gear inside creating a lot of swarf in not a lot of time. once back together put the gearbox in neutral and transfer box in gear, and difflock and rotate the output. as you know it should be free and smooth.

fortunately, these days i'm lucky enough to have a 4 post ramp and transmission jack. before that i had to lie on my back and lift it in. not a nice job. easy to damage seals when you are struggling with it. i would highly recommend making or buying a cradle to jack it up with, even better if you have a jack with 4 omnidirectional castors. its the shape more than the weight which makes it awkward. 75% of the weight is within the output portion of the box, rather than around the part which you are trying to align

Ditto glad to hear youre back up and running, you mustnt forget to let me pay you though!

Be sure you have the right seat frames to strt with. you need the softback type seats rather than the ones with a moulded plastic backing. Mine were the plastic backed type and where the kit did fit. and there are no issues with it, it was designed for the softback type seats (most common and most likely what you have) Fitting is slightly harder with the hardback seats, but i still managed it on my own and the results were great. much comfier and more supporting foams not to mention looking 20X smarter

The LT230 should cope fine with 500BHP +1 for a build thread. will be following with interest!

I've been ordering components section at a time. I have the fusebox and relay board set on a scrap bulkhead, all of the lighting parts of the harness are poplulated into the fuse and relay board. and have been laid out in their respective "run groups" with plenty of excess wire. At this point i measured for the multiplugs and cut through each group of wires at the point they go through the bulkhead, then populated the multiplugs as necessary. I have just tonight ordered the majority of the rest of the components required. all the wires for the engine and cab harness. with the exception of some of the dash harnesses and bits im not 100% sure about yet. The new plates to replace the grommet plates in the top of the bulkhead have been designed and sent off for laser cutting from 2mm stainless. the multiplugs will mount to these and poke through. There are no more pictures as of yet as it doesnt look like much. i will take a photo when obvious progress has been made. Current spend tally is around £275. still under what a standard complete harness would be without modifications. I'll be happy if it stays under £400 all in. Remember, i'm doing this properly, not cheaply.

i really want that!

i'd of said that was marine blue, windjammer looks a bit greyer than that. although its hard to tell from a photograph

i have similar symptoms sometimes normally its a dodgy contact on those rubbish glass fuses

Interestingly my door cards (the same) are in excellent nick however the metal clips that are hot glued to the top edge have all fallen off and are not available as a spare part. I'm planning to get a few laser cut when I get the chance to flat pattern one.

Interestingly my door cards (the same) are in excellent nick however the metal clips that are hot glued to the top edge have all fallen off and are not available as a spare part. I'm planning to get a few laser cut when I get the chance to flat pattern one.

Thanks Hoss some useful food for thought there.

He's been dragged abroad with his missus at the moment I think

You're pretty much spot on with the second point. I have available a radiator for cooling a 1.0 petrol engine all day long, it's not that big, but I am thinking of keeping a reservoir aswell so as the volume of water it has to try and heat up before I reach running speed will keep intake temperatures lower.

am i right in thinking for a larger caliper and solid disks (of you so desire) you could get vented calipers and remove the sandwich spacer?

Hi all. I'm looking into rearranging my cooling pack. deleting the air-air intercooler and replacing with a water-air intercooler which should hopefully be a bit more efficient at lower speeds. (you can tell by EGT's the intercooler doesn't do much below say, 50mph) I have a suitable radiator for cooling the water, and i have a question. While i know it is important to use a well designed shroud/ducting/cowling system and it is as important to let air out the engine bay at the back as it is to let it in at the front, I'm not sure of the best way to package the two radiators: Option 1: radiators basically sandwiched together. In my head this seems to be a plus for airflow, ensuring (Along with the correct ducting) air travels well through both/ However will this cause me problems in the mud? will it get tight between the 2 and block airflow? Option 2: Radiators positioned with an air gap between the two, and a suitable shroud made in order to ensure airflow through them both However there will be more airflow losses regardless. And would this be worse for mud? possibly allowing more mud to get on both radiators? Thanks

Might be worth looking into baffle foam. Not sure of the price but its good stuff