discomikey

Unfortunately it sounds like your diff, try driving it in diff lock (disclaimer, try it on grass so you don't wind up your drivetrain) if it goes away, it's likely to be the center diff bushes as said above. Fortunately though the Lt230 box is simple and the diff can be removed with the box in situ, although it's not much work to take it out completely nd give it a good going over!

the 2 bolts that go through from the front side into the transfer casing (bottom center and in the gap between mainbox and front output housing) need to be 2 or 3mm shorter than the rest. if you have put the wrong ones in their place (easily done as at a glance the bolts are "the same" if thats the case the bolts will be fouling on the gears inside the transfer box, i doubt any real damage will be done but its something to look out for!

not Ashcrofts either. puzzling!

Just playing with you mate I'm not after an argument

Horizontal band saws are a must have for anyone who does more than the occasional bit of fabrocation! Great things, shame they're not normally cheaper!

an interesting read! may be worth trying a few out myself! my box is due a change now its done a couple of miles

does anyone know the AJV8 crankshaft bolt PCD? i bet it is the same as something LR, after all they are the same family

on another note, can you fit a private plate to a Q plated vehicle? (normal private plate age rules permitting)

16.5 seconds? sorry, my diesel is quicker 10.8 on the smaller tyres, around 11.8 on the taller set

now that is very smart! but $99,000

good shout steve, when i changed my rear crank seal i realised it was the gasket that had failed and not the seal!!!

Also be careful as the 2 bolts that thread into the transfer box from the gearbox side need to be shorter than the rest, otherwise they will do up fine but will be touching gears inside and create swarfy mess

I managed to pull my flywheel housing off whilst the engine was in the vehicle, although mine is a conversion.

that bread trick is incredible! definately trying that one next time i have my gearbox out!

i measured the length at ride height, then set that length as mid-travel on the slip joint. ideally, you should measure the length at full droop and at full bump although this isnt quite so easy to do with a leafer.

how about something a bit like this, but more better proportioned

that one hasnt gone just yet but its a discovery version so different length input shaft

i could have answered 2 or 3 weeks ago, unfortunately not now though

i rather quite like the mountains, reminds me of the discovery 1 mountain logo they used to do! if a generic LR could be somehow (subtly) added to the foreground maybe to the left of the URL that might work nicely? its (to me) the least "tacky" of the lot, (not meaning to offend!)

PM'd, also do you know when my supportership runs out? i forgot when i need to renew

get yourself one of these, they tell you within seconds whether your battery is good or not. you can get them cheaper too. if you can't afford that, using a voltmeter to measure the battery voltage while the vehicle is cranking will tell you the same thing, anything more than a 2 or 3volt drop and its a duffer.

good to see poeple making an effort to share the code around Chris!

Poeple tend to ignore the big rotators more than strobes too

I explained in the paragraph above the text, we were travelling in 3 seperate convoys roughly half hour apart, There was a breakdown which bunched us all up at that point. 20 mins later we were all setting off again and waited at a nearby pub before the next lane

I, III, and IX cover me And V