V8 Freak

I watched the professional change mine just over a year ago.. He failed to get the old screen out without damage, although he could have cut the old surround if he had been worried about preserving the glass. Putting the new screen in, with new rubber he said the secret was to not rush, not force it and take all the time you need... He gently slapped the screen with his open palm when it wasn't dropping in fully... If dropping a new screen in, my advice would be to refresh the paint on the screen surround. Mine started started leaking a while after the installation and it was the corroded metal around the screen rubber causing a poor seal on the edges and effectively acting a bit like a wick transferring water from the outside to the inside. If you have a chance, fit new onto good fresh / clean surfaces and run sealant around the seal between frame and rubber to be sure....

I wonder if there is enough information in the thread for David Ashcroft to be able to advise if its a problem with the gearbox internals.. @ashtrans - David.. Does this sound like a gearbox or torque converter failure based on the information above or can you advise of an additional test the OP can do to check before considering removal and replacement? Thanks in advance....

Ah.... Yes.. That's probably not an option... James is a good person so I'd hope he will be able to make suggestions once he's seen pictures.

I spoke to Griffin when I fitted a system to my 90 as the arch over the rear axle was too tall and would touch / vibrate against the floor. I met at a facility half way between their site and my house and they removed the exhaust, made amends and kept going at it until I was happy. The guys at the facility he used worked on it for nearly an hour in the end... Moved mounts, shortened tubes, added in another joint for ease of positioning in the future if needed. No charge to me. I've since gone auto and because it's so well made I was able to delete the mount near the front cross member and it still doesn't move at all ! Like others said, call them and talk it through.

Where are you based?? The loud pump when initially turned on probably suggests either an air leak or fuel bleeding back out of the system somehow and needing to be pushed back up to pressure. Can you clarify when it last ran and if it’s run at all since changing the injector seals etc.? It really sounds like it needs bleeding through and it should run. Mines a later td5 with the purge facility, but occasionally when I’ve released the fuel from the system even after a few purges it needs some cranking with the throttle pedal held down until it catches and then usually sorts itself out. Any chance of getting a decent boost from another vehicle while cranking with the pedal down to see if it does eventually catch?

It may be similar to a problem I had a few years back.. Full tank of diesel and all worked fine, down under half - quarter and it stopped running and gave the impression of being out of fuel. I took the fuel line off the filter and pumped into external cans for storage and the pressure the pump could deliver at different tank fills was amazing. Changed the fuel pump and all was well....

Definitely change the injector loom while the top is off. Get Genuine Land Rover injector seals and O-rings if you can...

Don't attempt to disassemble the actual injectors. very specialist work... If you are referring to getting them out of the head, I use a long 5mm Allen key. In just the right place you can lever them out. Slide hammer is the Land Rover way but I've read of this damaging injectors too...

Now that depends if the ones you have work.. My vehicle at 148k miles and still working.

Once it's all back together rotating by hand is good to make sure, but one or two should suffice. Wise to disconnect the impact sensor on the bulkhead and crank on the battery to build oil pressure before starting. Crank until oil light goes out. Then reconnect. Also make sure battery if fully charged as you will need to run the purge cycle at least 6 times to push diesel into the head. Since the injectors likely to be empty too, you are likely to need to crank with throttle open too when you want to start to help get fuel into injectors and get it fired up. Use new seals on all injectors. Adjust them correctly. Plenty online about how to do that but if not sure pleas ask. Make sure to follow the correct head bolt tightening proceedure. Neil

Hi Roberto, The head should stay in the right place but as you can see in your picture, the bolt is not a tight fit for the gap in the camshaft, so timing will be out ! (Yes, it's that specific) With the head off and nothing in the timing hole in the bell housing, you can turn the engine, just keep the timing chain elevated a bit but mine didn't catch or jump off the bottom sprocket. When it comes to putting it all back, turn the crank until you have timing mark and bright links at the top... Get under the truck and see if the timing gap on the flywheel has lined up with the hole in the bell housing. This is mine not quite lined up.... The gap needs to be dead central in the hole for the engine to be on TDC #1. When this is lined up, timing sprocket mark at the top, bright links at the top all will be good to put the head back on. When you get the head back on, attached the sprocket and loosely fit the bolts. Make sure the bolt is central in the camshaft timing gap.... Refit the chain tensioner in side of the casing and then tighten the three bolts that hold the sprocket to the camshaft. Remove to bolts one by one and add threadlock. Timing "should" be set.... Neil

Hi Rob (Or is it Bob), At some point you will need the two timing pins to set this all up properly. Basic timing preparation... The head has a small hole just behind the timing chain on the top. This is where one timing pin will need to go and holds the cam ready for #1 at TDC. There are two "bright" links on the timing chain. When #1 cylinder is in the right place, these will line up with the mark on the chain wheel. Note: The system is designed so that the bright links and timing mark only match up after something like 26 revolutions to reduce chain wear, so you may be rotating the engine for a while to get the bright links and timing mark on the chain wheel all lined up. I did all this with the head off to get the chain lined up and had the pin inserted in the head prior to fitting so it was in TDC position for #1 from the off.... With chain, timing marks and then cam all ready, I then bolted the chain wheel to the end of the camshaft, but left loose. Under the vehicle, there is a threaded hole (Drivers side) where the second pin goes in. Only when #1 is at TDC will it go in fully... Once you have the head back on and torqued down etc. and the chain tensioner back in, with both pins in place your timing is set. Only then should you tighten the three bolts holding the timing chain to the cam. (Don't forget to add threadlock to these.) Hope this helps... Neil

I'm no expert on TDCi's but have seen a lot written about improving their performance, and don't recall anything about a specific torque limiter for specific gears. Many companies are offering re-maps for the vehicle. IRB, BAS, JE etc... Just depends how deep your pockets are. http://jemotorworks.co.uk/power-performance-defender/

I put a laser measure between front and rear of Mo's front wheel rims at the weekend and he has 1mm of tow out. So the string method when done well is still good...

I know it's a different length of vehicle, but this was mine with centre box removed but pipes basically in the same place. It was closer to the Transfer box than I'd have liked. When i switched to a Griffin exhaust with a few amends we aimed for the centre gaps in the mounts.... Neil

Dan, I went SMF and it was an amazing setup. Really smooth and amazing clutch grip etc.. No issues towing my old Golf on a trailer etc. The only issue I had was there was a rattle on tick-over in neutral that annoyed me. Basically without the DMF the gears in the gearbox (R380) rattle and chatter on tick-over. No damage is being done but I found myself dipping the clutch and sitting like that when stationary to stop the noise. I've since converted the truck to auto and that problem seems to have gone away. I still have all the Rakeway setup but you should be able to get a DMF, clutch and pressure plate etc. for less that I would sell it for.... Standard setup is very good on a TD5... Edit: Thinking on your noise... An old / worn DMF typically rattles when the clutch is depressed or released... Basically you are putting the rubber bond under or releasing tension doing this and hence the rattle is noticeable. Other than that you may hear a rattle, or more of a knock, when it knocks to its full rotational limits. (Under heavy torque loading in lower gears.) Looking at your picture that does look a lot closer to the mount than I would like.... The simple way to test that would be to fit a block of wood in that gap and remove the movement for a short test run. If the rattle is gone, then unclamp and reset the position of the centre box so it's weight and location help to settle the exhaust further away from the chassis mounts.

I recently converted my Td5 Defender to auto and I cut the orange / black wire, fitted connectors (So I could re-connect quickly if needed) and that relay / connection is now controlled by the Compushift ECU... If not in Park or Neutral the ECU won't power the relay and therefore won't let the car crank. I'm assuming this is what your alarm will be doing too... Neil

Hopefully these will be helpful. Defender MY2002 Wiring Diagram.pdf

Hi and Welcome to the forum... Blue wire.... The relay for the starter is in the main fuse box in front of the gear lever... The feed wire is orange & black (Relay is usually 2nd from the left) White Wire.... There will be a wire on the key barrel that remains live for cranking... Can't remember the wire colour off hand but I'm sure a grown-up will be along to advise. (Try looking for a white / brown and testing with a meter....) Hope this helps.... Neil

When I dropped my first 3.9 into my old 110 (Replaced 3. on carbs) I seem to recall that it pretty much needed a switched live (Fuel pump) and an earth to get Hotwire to work. (Needed to change the fuel pump for higher pressure pump in my case)

Less parts and faster to build the truck on the production line.

It'll be pretty obvious Garry.... If it heats up real fast and then when thermostat opens it cools off noticeably on the temp gauge then you will need the heater circuit. Is it a stock temperature gauge with a 50 degree fudge factor to keep it nice and central on the dial or something more accurate to help you keep an eye on things?

I was thinking back after seeing this diagram Garry.... I had issues with my RV8 when my heater matrix was blocked.... (Not that I knew that was the cause initially) My engine used to heat up from cold, get a tad too warm too quickly and then the thermostat would open. This would result in loads of flow and the cool water from the radiator would effectively mostly close the thermostat again causing another hot flash in the top of the engine. I tried drilling holes in the top of the stats to various sizes, running with restriction plates instead of thermostat etc. to calm these peaks of heat. When I thought it through, it pointed to not enough water in the bypass loop.... So I changed the heater matrix, went back to a standard 88 degree thermostat and all my troubles were gone. Remembering this, I'd be worried that you too wouldn't have enough water flowing through the plenum to allow the engine to warm up more slowly and you may get the hot spikes like I used to.... Heat is not a friend of RV8's....

Apart from the octopus thermostat housing, that's pretty much how I had the 110 plumbed in. Thermostat was in the top of the plenum and piped direct to the radiator. Heater return went into the top of the radiator. Throttle housing I plumbed out and took the feed direct to the expansion tank.

If you cannot find Kenlowe replacement, why not try X-Eng / Foundry 4X4?? (I would normally just post a link but the board software seems to be prohibiting this at present....)