V8 Freak

In that case the smaller pipe feeding back to the header tank will probably suffice.

My old 4.6 was plumbed to use the heater as the bypass circuit. From memory it used the bigger of the two pipes in your picture around the left and then behind the engine to feed the heater. The return ran back to a dedicated feed on the main radiator. (Assumes what we see is the front of the engine and the top of the thermostat housing) The smaller pipe ran to the header / expansion tank and effectively gave a way to bleed air out of the plenum arrangement.

Tis a shame..... (Was looking forward to testing it LOL)

My old 110 had one mount on Gearbox and one on T/box. (Opposite sides of the chassis) Same on the TD5 90 i have now.... I don't notice any vibration / noise from the setup.

Ok... Keep in touch via PM... Will probably be late August or very early Sept when I run over there with a 90 full of bits.... Happy to collect and store at my friends farm and even test it on my ramp for you if needed (Only for a few years of course...) Neil

If they can hold onto it for w few weeks and it'll fit in the back of a 90 I may be able to help... My truck is off the road for about a week but I will be running to Dunstable at some point with some things for Dave Ashcroft. I'm just south of Cambridge so getting it nearer for you....

Steve.. What's all this^^^ ??? Welcome back Bish...

Have a look here and see if it helps.... http://www2.dana.com/Expert/wc.dll?hvtss~dedsec~2~13~06~

Just jack on front wheel and turn until the diff flange lines up... Pop on the front prop... Then do the same for the rear.. One wheel is ll it needs per axle.

http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/ In their world it's J-type.... Although they don't to the speed sensor as it's not fitted in their application of the overdrive.

I live and learn..... Still something new each day.... Learn one and forget three is my problem....

Hi there.... I don't know Freelanders but I've seen a lot of hydraulic systems on a lot of cars.... EVERY master cylinder I've seen new comes empty.... No fluid included. By the nature of the system, you will break the pipework open to fit the new parts and then need to bleed the system through to remove air. With that in mind, if the system is not leaking it should only need bleeding if the fluid is old and has absorbed water over time or a change of an element has let air in. Why do you think it needs bleeding?

and if strategically placed to avoid damage coupled with the the mast being removable for off-roading / bushes and obstacles.... nice find Steve...

Originally it would have been placed around the barrel as you suggest so it's always in close enough proximity to the key fob. If fitting the X-eng barrel protector thingy, you can re-locate it to a position under the barrel as that's typically where the fob is anyway. Neil

We think we found the problem. Pressure plate, clutch material and spigot bush all replaced. Reports from Rich last night suggest he got home without issue and the use of all gears!!! I'll leave a space now for him to fill in any gaps for you... Neil (Anyone else need a clutch / gearbox change? Getting quite good at this lark!)

I have one fitted and to be very honest I've not noticed any difference... Last year on a twisty climb out of Andorra at a point where either momentum or a locked centre diff would have normally been used. I slowed and didn't lock the centre diff.... The truck stopped as it would without an ATB. One wheel in the air only on the front axle. Rear axle has an Ashcroft ATB/LSD and front is open diff. Centre diff locked, backed down a little and went back at the same point and rolled on though even though the same wheel lifted. This may not be the intended use and I still only lock the centre diff when i think it will be needed and not like some advocate "always locked when off-road" I don't know if this is the intended use for the ATB but I've no really noticed its there... Not sure i would notice if removed ! Neil

Hi Iain and welcome to LR4X4... The wastegate may be stuck but they are under quite a lot of pressure... Get some mole-grips on the shaft and tug it along the shaft away from the actuator... It should move but may require some force.... If you cannot move it, then try some penetrating fluid on the joint at the turbo end and keep trying to free it off... It may take time and some force but it should move and spring back into the rest position. Jump to 1:44 in this video for a view of what you need to do..

The OP hasn't visited since 9th June so hopefully they have a solution.....

Have you tried formatting in different formats and tested if the head unit can see that card?

Yes.. Hawkeye or Nanocom etc access the ECU's via the On Board Diagnostics port (OBD) Where are you based? Might be worth asking around to see if anyone can help locally?

Where are you based? It might be worth seeing if someone near you has a diagnostic unit they can plug in. I've had the TC / ABS light on mine when one of the speed sensors in the hubs lifted up a little after I hammered a ball joint free. Nanocom showed which corner was at fault. I have no idea if the new Wabco unit needs to be programmed into your ECU's in some way.. Hopefully someone else can advise on that.

What model type is it? Hopefully still a sticker on it... (Something like NNN000120) Then search ebay etc. for one for sale of same model number. Find a friend with Nanocom or similar and then it can be programmed for key and alarm codes etc.

We've got a Golf, GTi TDi (PD engine) and last year it went in for some weird running issues.. Suspected injector.... Ended up being a collapsed follower and damaged cam. While it was in I had the garage change the bottom end shells just as a health check. Engine stayed in the car throughout and head stayed on the engine throughout..... I didn't do the work myself so cannot comment of ease of the job though. Hope it helps.

Stop trying to defend wreckless speeding

Ambient temperature may be cooler here but if you were travelling in the outside lane hammering the 110 today and comparing to another time, the temperature around the exhaust may have been a lot cooler with SWMBO next to you making you slow down and reminding you that you were on holiday and to take it easy.... As said above, it might be the heat just pushing the system too far..... Change master, refresh fluid and stop driving the 110 like you stole it...