elbekko

I'll come get it for £100 Sad day indeed. Hopefully you find a good way to sell it.

The noise in the speakers would point to ground issues. The engine being disabled shouldn't be due to the fob, if the immobiliser is disabled in the BeCM (my fob hasn't worked for years). What could be is that the communication between the BeCM and the ECM isn't always working, again pointing towards potential ground issues.

Good to know, I'll check it out again.

When you draw a square with a hole in the center, and you change the size of the box, it should still be in the center. Simple explanation, but that carries across sketches, features and bodies. As far as I've found when using SketchUp, it just draws things where you tell it to, but links nothing together. I'll check it out, thanks. Looks alright at first glance, except for the cost for anyone other than students.

Yeah, no use spending a lot of money on something that'll equally die when falling constantly. Because the universal truth to a light is that it's always exactly where you also need to be.

Many years ago I taught myself Solidworks on a less-than-legal version, and I loved using it. A couple of years ago I picked up Fusion 360 as they have a free version for hobbyists. I've been trying to get along with it, but it just infuriates me constantly. The history is just one massive jumble of things, the joints never want to work, sketch constraints would rather change the meaning of a measurement than actually, you know, move something closer by... It's probably just me. Maybe I need to learn it. But yesterday I saw that Solidworks now offers a hobbyist licence for €100/year. I'm just not sure it's worth it, but I've spent more to not be infuriated by something. Has anyone tried the hobbyist licence of Solidworks? Does it do everything you need it to? Opinions? Alternatives (must be parametric, I can't stand "stupid" CAD software like SketchUp)? I tried OnShape once when it came out, but it seemed very limited, sadly.

I had a roofer over a few years ago, he just popped out his phone and used an AR measuring app to make an estimate. No need to bother with a tape measure if that is close enough.

As long as they don't give you a list of previous owners, GDPR doesn't come into this at all.

That's really neat. I'd still manage to screw it up though.

That may point to the oil having a bunch of water in it. Sadly that can lead to the oil pump burning up pretty quickly (as I sadly found out myself a few years ago). That would certainly cause the torque converter to slip, as there's not enough oil pressure for it to work properly, until the lockup is engaged.

*looks at the box trailer on his driveway It happens

How "solid" do the shifts feel? I think that could point to either torque converter or oil pump. Does it still go into lockup? And if so, does it feel better then? Maybe the "disengaging kickdown" behaviour you describe could point to that - taking your foot out of the throttle could allow the lockup to re-engage. How did the oil look that came out of the gearbox?

It takes some practice. But it does work well, if you know the frequency it should be set to. We've successfully used it (and in the past, guitar tuner apps) on a few Lotus engines, which spec tension in frequency.

It's funny. I've had similar experiences here and there, but mainly have been well-received. My local Mercedes dealership (which is a big reason I'm on my third Mercedes), has always been very good to me. My first experience with them was when I was picking out a second-hand C-class. My budget only allowed a German import, not one from their lot. But I wanted to be sure the seats wouldn't murder my back, so I phoned them up asking if they had one on their lot that I could sit in. No problem, come by. Of course when there we had a quick chat, and they realised they didn't have anything in my budget, but still let me sit in one of their cars. I then got that car from Germany, and convinced my boss to let me go that dealership for the maintenance. A few years later I was going freelance, and looking at a new or recent second-hand car. Walked in, salesman still vaguely remembered me. Was happy to show me around their cars, and let me test drive a few. Had almost settled on the C-class coupé, when I saw the E-class coupé in the flesh. I went back straight from the Brussels auto show, made some terrible financial decisions, and ordered one before it was even officially presented. All of this while in my 20s, looking rather scruffy. This salesman is now the sales manager at that dealership, and has recently sold me a brand new GLE with a nice discount, while buying back the E coupé at a bit over market value. I can walk into this dealership and everyone knows me by name. I don't think I'll buy another new Mercedes, but that has more to do with the cars than the dealership. On the other hand, I was also looking at Jags and BMWs while going freelance. None of them were nearly as helpful or friendly. Most of them took a bit of convincing I was actually a serious buyer. If that E coupé hadn't been so damn pretty, maybe I would've had an XE or XF... but probably not, because the dealership sucked.

As Bowie says, some cleaning up, especially on a machine that's been in metal dust since the early '80s, can do wonders. I'd try mapping out the different circuits through the switch. When drawn out, it'll probably not be so complicated. Then you can either see about a fitting replacement switch, or if not possible, just have a bunch of toggle switches and a legend that you print out next to it for the different settings? Not idiot-proof, but that just means it needs one of these stickers.

Many timing belts can also be set by frequency. Some manufacturers spec this instead of torque, even. You can use an app like this to verify: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gates.carbondrivecalculator

Colour me very jealous... no way you'd find that around here for that price

Again? From the horse's mouth: https://media.jaguarlandrover.com/news/2023/04/jlr-invest-ps15-billion-over-next-five-years-its-modern-luxury-electric-first-future

Are you sure they're nylocks and not metal locks? They look similar.

By not being relevant to the sub, probably.

A bit like the Wagoneer and similar yank station wagons. Beautiful execution, but yeah, special is the word I'd use

I couldn't get MLS gaskets to seal properly on my 300TDi back in the day... composite worked fine.

From the wiring diagram in the link you posted, it looks to me like the brown wire should connect to the Green/White wire? As far as I understand the description, the blue wire is optional, and used for DRLs or something like that.

Indeed, what Fridge said. Sometimes you can get it to self-excite by revving it over 2000rpm, but just hooking up the light is more reliable

Did you hook up the alternator warning light?