Easy thing to try, that I usually do. After taking out the key, turn it 90 degrees and give the lock barrel a good poke. It should then pop up so it's slightly proud. Anything less might be keeping systems awake.
You can always just hang a pickup hose into a jerrycan, there's no pump in the tank anyway. Then you eliminate a lot of unknowns.
Also definitely replace the fuel filter when it's had water in it.
How much of said water was injected into the cylinders? Hopefully not enough to hydrolock and damage things.
That molten isolator and starter are scary. There must be something causing it to draw a ton of current.
For my Mercedes, I ordered in January last year, car was built in July, arrived in Europe (American-built) in September, then stood around waiting for a truck driver until December.
So a bit of wait isn't unheard of these days, unfortunately. Apparently it's getting better again now.
I had the invoice for my GLE in hand when I ordered it, to be paid before registration. It waited nicely for many months until the car was actually nearby
I recently bought this: https://www.vevor.nl/elektrische-lier-c_11304/13500lbs-12v-electric-synthetic-rope-winch-3-stage-planetary-gear-train-roller-fairlead-p_010676218521
Haven't run it yet, but it looks and feels like good enough quality. Especially for the price.
They have some smaller winches as well. And a UK site, but I couldn't immediately find tge winch on there.
Roll cage makes it safer to send it.
Lights make it easier to see where to send it.
And that's probably exactly what you need to do in a Frontera, to be fair...
Grind out all of the cracked material, clean up the edges properly (you may have to boil all of the oil/coolant out of it), grab a sheet of cast iron, and braze it in. Preheat with a torch and let it cool down under a bunch of fire blankets.
At least that's what years of watching people do it on the internet has taught me
A lot of the EAS signals also go through the kick panel connectors. Worth cleaning and checking there.
A failed compressor wouldn't cause all of those faults.
Interesting. Guess we never got far enough to see that part of it. I just remember floating nicely, hitting a soft patch with one front wheel, and it just instantly digging in - game over.
I think the MaxTrax are lighter than a waffle board? Never held one though, but my back aches just thinking about the 50mm waffles.
I would think a small peristaltic pump would work as well. They're usually made to be on 24/7, although I have some doubts about the longevity of the flexible hose.
I guess. I saw the inverse happen in Russia when Mouse's locker failed. One of the wheels hit a softer spot, spun a little (this was damn near on tickover too), and dug a hole.
So, conclusion: tool in the arsenal, and depends on the exact terrain.
When turning, sure. In a straight line? Way less chance of breaking through with the lockers engaged, otherwise the least bit of traction loss will cause a wheel to spin. A lockable ATB would be ideal, I guess.
That's strange, maybe they've updated their policy? Pretty sure @Escapewalked in with a broken 1/4" ratchet bought at a flea market, and they replaced it with a newer model. I've personally walked in with that exact breaker bar broken in that exact way, and got a new one no questions asked.
I'd be happy to try exchanging it here.
I agree. Would bring some class to the street.
There's actually one like that parked a few km away, still makes my head turn.
Potentially a house in Sweden... where I'll need a Mog for plowing and mowing and and and (no?)
https://www.rbauction.nl/idp/1986-mercedes-benz-unimog-421-4x4-utility-truck?invId=13737355&id=ci&auction=meppen-deu-2023299
/twitch
I don't have room for it. I have better things to spend money on. But damn if I don't want that.