Les Henson

An auto gearbox doesn't have a flywheel (the torque converter does that). You would on a lot of engines have to swap the flywheel housing, but it might not be removeable and is part of the engine block and this would mean that you can't fit it. Other things, such as differences in the block casting for things such as linkages, differences in exhaust mounting, and starter motor locations might also be different. Les

I used to buy Bearmach stuff all the time when they had a place near me. Never once had a problem with quality. Les

You should get a compression check done on the engine before you buy anything. I recently replaced the turbo on an '07 transit that had run away, and even though the owner knew what to do and stalled the engine it was too late and he had to replace the engine as well, as it had revved beyond it's limits and broken the rings and scored the bores. Les.

The difference in thickness is 1/10th mm. You will not notice any difference in performance. Les.

Air in the system or faulty lift pump. If the valves in the pump are weak, then fuel drains back into the tank. It starts because residual fuel between the lift pump and injectors is not affected and so the engine briefly starts. Les

Grit blasting generates heat so the plastic coating goes soft and is murder to get off. The time spent doing it will be expensive. Wire brushes, flap wheels, etc, will do the same thing. I did an A-bar once and just burned it off. Les

Same thing as far as I'm aware - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=54796 Les.

I've used it for about the last 20 odd years. Les.

A whole pack is less than £20 and replacing the whole length is quite often unnecessary as you then run the risk of extensive fluid loss (and subsequent difficult system bleeding), removal of other components to do the job, breaking retaining clips, etc, etc. My flaring tool is hand held so I can do the job under the vehicle. You can make the replacement pipe first, so no fluid loss until you make the cut in the original pipe. People tend to think that an Eezibleed just connects to one of the tyres, but there's a pressure limit (20psi ?), so if you connect it to one of the tyres on the vehicle, then you run the risk of damage (such as a burst fluid reservoir for example). Les

If the brake pipe is only corroded at the end (near the rear wheel for instance), the exisiting line can be cut where it's clean and a replacement length can be added. Buy a pack of cupro nickel brake pipe (about 20ft in a pack). Male and female connectors are about 15p each and you will need 3, Thread is 10mm fine. No need for a pipe bender as the new pipe can easily be bent by hand but be careful not to kink it. You will need a flaring tool, and a cheapy one will do the job as long as you are careful. There'll be plenty of pipe in the pack so practice a few times before tackling the job and remember to put the fitting on the pipe before you flare it or you'll have to cut the pipe and start again. Female fittings have a flared pipe end (like a trumpet), and male fittings have a mushroom pipe end so that there's a seal when the two are pressed together by the fittings. Les

Anybody ever replaced these please? Looks as fiddly as hell. Thanks. Les

Yep, that slight variation is nothing to worry about. Nice and high too. Les

You need one of these - http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-torque-angle-gauge-1-2 Les

Clutch slaves quite commonly suck air before they start to leak. You may find that when you remove the slave it will have a small amount of fluid inside the dust seal. Les

Could be that the clutch plate has stuck to the flywheel/clutch cover. Starting it in 2nd gear and repeatedly pressing the clutch pedal usually frees it off. Les.

It does sound typical of a broken cv. I experienced this same thing on my own vehicle and a Disco that locked up and hit a gate as a result. The broken parts had jammed the front wheel which caused it to lock up. Les

It's not really terminal - you just need to replace the pistons. No engine out, just head and sump off. I had this same engine in my 109 and I replaced them twice. Les

£1800 is a bit steep though Les

2.5TD engines are prone to pistons cracking, which is indicated by oil in the air box. Les.

P gasket replace (includes water pump) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7547 Les.

Few things can cause this. The worst being piston blow-by. To check this just remove the oil filler cap and see if the pulsing stops and then can be felt through the filler cap hole. Other thing is exhaust/inlet gasket leaking between exhaust and inlet port. Valve not seating/cracked/chipped. Head gasket compression leak to the camshaft side of the engine. Les

If one or more of the glow plugs are not working then you'll get quite a large cloud of black smoke out of the exhaust when the engine finally starts. You can test them individually, but they have to be removed in order to do that. Glow plugs are rather delicate and can snap off quite easily. They come out easier if the engine is hot. Les.

I used Bearmach parts for many years until they closed their place in Swindon. Always good quality in my opinion. LES

"I'm changing the head gasket on my 300Tdi because it is/was blowing out the back of cyl. #4" :) Les

A blowing cylinder will get a build up of carbon as the burn is weak. The orange and black flaky bits are bits of the old gasket. Otherwise it looks like normal gunk and mess to me Les.