edwardatherton

Oi, that's no way to talk about jules!

I like the ancientway idea - I would go with something historic-sounding rather than anything with mud in the title. Something like ancientway or (just come up with this idea - historicroutes) sounds better to me - doesn't bring up image of the off-roader/mud/damaging lanes type of thing.

Errrm, so-called WHITE LED's produce a very blue light which is blocked by a coloured lens. Coloured LED's work better because the same-coloured lens allows the light to pass through!

LED's produce a very blue light, so a coloured lens blocks that blue light, reducing output.

What about black tyre paint?

Hear, hear. I don't like spending money, even when I need to! I have run my 88" S1 on unleaded/LPG for about 8000 motorway miles so far since October and everything is still fine...

I always solder them. I have never had a soldered connection come apart, whereas the crimped ones on my wife's Fiat 500 are rubbish and we keep having to redo them. I have a Solder Pro 70 (or might be Solder Pro 50) which is excellent. No warm up time, refills from standard fag lighter gas and has lots of different tips for different jobs.

That's not all you'll get if they actually use some of the 'suggestions' on this thread...

I have recently put such a system in my S1. Brilliant for reversing! The camera is 270,000 pixels, water/shock proof and has IR and a microphone on it! It is mounted on a mag-mount. The idea is that it can be taken off the LR and put onto the Sankey or any other trailer if needs be with an extension cable. All linked up to a 6" TFT/LCD monitor in the cab. This has connections for two cameras, AV in/out and the usual image normal/reverse functions.

Why, they got triffids?

apologies - can someone edit that bit as well, so his spelling is correct please?

This bracket is already on the engine, and I suspect is the original dynamo bracket... I have this bracket which I think is an alternator bracket... and I think it needs to go here after taking the other one off so I can fit the alternator... Correct?

While trying to decide how best to get the front crank oil seal into the 2.25 petrol I am rebuilding, I found that the 'wrong' end of the box spanner fits just right round the edge of the seal. Only trouble is, it doesn't do the business end of the spanner much good, hammering the seal in...

That's a fantastic story!! Sounds just like many cities actually, and as for umbrellas, I hate them for exactly the same reason! Good tip - if you wear a baseball cap and someone comes towards you with an umbrella, you can often sort of flick it with the peak of the cap. If you time this right, their umbrella will tip water on someone or tangle their umbrella with the one passing on the other side. By the time they have apologised and sorted it out you are well out of the way... Did you know what OAP stands for? Old Annoying Person. They have to take a test when they get old and get points for getting in other people's way in various different ways. Well, at least I think thats why they do it, can't think of any other reason right now.

No, it is a later axle - fully floating. There were 4 shims but now there aren't any! I simply swapped the whole diff across from one axle to the other.

Right, last weekend I swapped the rear axle from the S1 type to a 2A SWB axle. Everything was cleaned and rebuilt, and I swapped the 4.3:1 diff from the old axle into the new one and bolted it all up. First day was fine, but over the last few days the whining noise has got so loud that you couldn't even hear the engine on the way to Blackpool Friday night! I took the rear prop off and it drove back home perfectly quietly. Symptoms... VERY LOUD whining under load (definitely the diff, not gearbox, hubs etc.) Hot front of diff (nice for warming your hands while removing prop in Blackpool!) Loads of play at the pinion. What have I done that could cause this...? I took the front cover plate off and changed the pinion oil seal while swapping the axle as well. I have been fiddling just now, and took out four shims from behind the front diff roller bearing. This removed all the play at the pinion but on a test drive it is still damn loud! Does anyone have any idea what I might have done/what has happened to my diff???

I should set my Dad on you for talking like that Les!! Anyway, I hope you weren't charging the cutomer labour time while you were taking these pictures...?

I have got some modern rubber ones and also some metal/leather type. Is one type better than the other, and if I use the leather ones should I soak them in oil first?

Just tie it down tightly all round and soak it for a day or two. It should go back to normal!

I have two cork seals and two rubber T-shaped seals that appear to be intended for the rear bearing cap, but which is best/worst, or can/should I fill it full of silicone and ignore these...?

DVLA Online Enquiry... The enquiry is complete The vehicle details for SY05 ZRX are: Date of Liability 01 07 2006 Date of First Registration 14 07 2005 Year of Manufacture 2005 Cylinder Capacity (cc) 4197CC CO2 Emissions 374g/Km Fuel Type Petrol Export Marker Not Applicable Vehicle Status Licence Not Due Vehicle Colour BLACK Vehicle Type Approval M1 The information contained on this page is correct at the time of enquiry. Vehicle Excise Duty Rate for vehicle 6 Months Rate £90.75 12 Months Rate £165.00

Yes, that 150-piece set is great. A friend of mine got one years ago and nothing has broken yet. We have even had 6-ft bars on the end of the ratchets and haven't broken anything yet!

OK, its sorted now - two 30-amp relays on a specially made bracket (aka bent bit of metal!). What a miserable evening it was yesterday, the wind kept blowing the soldering iron out, and it was raining so hard I was wet through

What sort of dipswitch should my 1957 88" have? Obviously floor-mounted, but should the wire connections point downwards or sideways...? As I have high-power halogen bulbs I want to put a relay in, but do I use one relay for low, and one for high beam, or is there a clever single relay to do both?

Labels? It doesn't have a fuse label... What's the point of labelling it, when there's only one?