FridgeFreezer

Why do you care? Sequential has almost no benefit apart from emissions at idle, and firing at the back of a closed valve is actually beneficial, it cools the valve / charge, vaporises the fuel and allows it to swirl.

Reminds me...

Can you save dosh by running the cable yourself and just getting the spark to connect the ends? Or just get him to install a 2nd consumer unit next to the meter for "future use" and do the rest yourself?

My experience was they come up with all this stuff (on a regular basis) and then nothing actually changes at the coal-face... unless it gets worse!

Some genius at my previous employer (or more likely, a conference room full of them) unleashed the company "values" of "Straightforward, Helpful, Inspiring, Trustworthy and Heart" and then got very upset when we set our e-mail signatures thusly: Straightforward Helpul Inspiring Trustwothy We thought it was very apt

^ This, also a 2ft power-bar is not good either. Alloy deforms, you need the RIGHT torque which is often surprisingly LOW. Decent tyre places use a torque wrench, if you see them tightening nuts with a windy gun walk away.

^ As Sigi says, it should come on with the ignition ON and the engine OFF, once the engine starts it should go out.

Having seen the video of how they do the swab test I'm staying at home, it's like the nasal probe from Total Recall!

Only certain grades of stainless stay shiny - 316 AKA "medical" grade is the common one, it's not that the other grades are "cheap" they just all have different properties, some grades are a barsteward to machine or don't like being welded etc. etc.

I thought stuff like Nitro-Mors etc. you washed it off with water, might be a bit safer (and more effective) than setting fire to a chassis full of gunk?

It's no problem getting the bits, it's if they're different from P38 to D2 - as I said, they appear to have subtle differences in the front cover/ancillaries and the exhaust manifolds I know are different, could be the odd difference in a gasket or whatnot as a result.

Surely not?

Just 'cos I got bored and googled it, there's any number of driver chips that do this - DRV120 or LM1949 first on the list.

ISTR the front cover / ancillaries are different on the Disco due to engine bay space... also the P38 clutch is a thing all of its own.

Looks like a badly-translated auto-generated advert for a random part number using a generic stock photo. Wouldn't buy anything form that sort of seller as it's likely to be wrong or utter cack.

If the guys who built can't get it to sit straight I'd be asking questions, spacers are a bodge.

It's very similar to the injector current limiting circuit on the Megasquirt, not surprising as injectors are just a solenoid. There's probably a driver chip that will do it for you TBH, although you've got the microcontroller and LR have given you a timing diagram so it's not hard to mimic that at all.

What you can do is slot along the tube with a grinder and squish it smaller, so it springs out inside the tube you're welding. It's mostly just to keep alignment but it can also help bridge the gap with weld, if you chamfer both ends down you still have the inner tube to hit with the welder rather than a gap.

@landroversforever Ross see you can just fabricate some axles the right width you lazy bu&&er

Everyone's got a different definition of acceptable If you build a half sensible bulkhead with some bracing along the bottom as Steve suggests, so the body is a fairly rigid standalone cage on its own, then it's going to take a fair bit to detach it from the chassis and TBH you're unlikely to be worse off than you'd have been in the donor vehicle (minus any airbags, natch) as long as the seat belt mounts etc. are good. The Defender body has all the stiffness of a wet paper bag in a crash, it's only because there's the chassis and heavy drivetrain acting as a battering ram that it comes off best - if you roll one, draw a line from the top of the bulkhead to the head rest of the seat, that's where the roof will come to!

TBH unless you're doing a comp safari that setup will probably be fine, in a roll it's going to do better than the LR body. Bit like my spec to Dan when he did my cage - low speed the driver and truck should be fine, high speed the driver should be fine, that's about all you can really ask for unless you go crazy.

Excellent, glad you got it sorted! AE is tricky to get bang-on, and the TPS/MAP/VE balance can help in a bouncy old Land Rover, I only discovered a problem with mine originally because I was driving at night at noticed every bump in the road lit up the accel LED on the front of the ECU as my foot bounced on the pedal

Should be a white wire with a brown trace I believe, and it should go to the oil pressure switch on the engine. Quite impressed you've never noticed the oil light doesn't come on

sid -I hadn't spotted those but I can see both sides, as a kit I guess this bolts on to the body mounts and therefore avoids IVA type complications etc. whilst being at least as strong as the OE aluminium box, but what it clearly isn't is any sort of proper roll cage that would pass scrutineering. As a kit I have to say I quite like the look of it, if I had a crusty Disco I'd be tempted as a fun runabout.

Second the suggestion of clamping in piece of angle iron. Also I've seen people sleeve tubes with a smaller piece or even just an offcut of flat bent into a circle to form a bridge across the join.