FridgeFreezer

That's an impressive crack!

Is it running lambda sensors? Without those it can't run closed-loop and self-tune. Also not sure how the hotwire would adjust to altitude other than by the AFM seeing the lower mass of air passing through, not sure it "knows" anything about altitude. Had a quick search through my library; You probably know this stuff: Perhaps more useful, a factory technical bulletin refers to some of them as open-loop (no lambda sensors): Which means it won't correct the richness or "learn" your engine (if 14CUX ever did?) It's possible you've got a dodgy coolant sensor, worth checking that as it's a simple and cheap fix. Can't find any info on actual tune, although the WITH cats one should be richer as you say, being open-loop is going to run blind and I guess erring on the side of too rich (and assuming it's attached to a 3.9) so it might be worth the experiment for 50p's worth of resistors. ...or, y'know, megasquirt it

TBH mine have come from VWP and been fine - they're not fancy, but they're the right thing for the job and have cost ~£30 a pop ish (one came in the econoseal kit). I've got one for insulated, one for non-insulated (EG relay/fuse housing) and one for econoseal pins - it really does make a difference! I also have a decent quality non-ratchet one which is good for nipping the odd thing up / adjusting uninsulated ones that don't quite grip right. Proper crimps make a big difference too - VWP don't sell junk but their crimps aren't as nice as genuine Tyco/Amp ones bought from the likes of RS/Farnell although again that gets pricey quickly when you have to buy bags of 100. I've had others just fall off despite being properly crimped - look for the 2nd smaller tube/sleeve inside the end, only the good ones have it. If in doubt, give the crimp a good tug after crimping, better it falls off now than on a rainy night on the motorway! There's a million very cheap Chinese copies of crimpers that look identical but it's a bit of a pot-luck thing, they might be the same or they might be far worse quality in the flesh.

Been there done it on the 127 and the 109, write-ups with lots of piccies below; 109 Wiring re-do with modular fusebox starts here: 127 engine loom / MSEFI install starts about here: If you buy all the right wire colours from VWP it will add up surprisingly fast and £650 will start to feel like a fairly good price TBH, if I had a standard truck I'd probably consider paying it. Bear in mind a 90 is ~4m long and it can take nearly 10m of wire to get from the tail light to the switch behind the dash by the time you've routed it round, put a connector or two in and allowed some slack, I don't buy less than 10m at a time of anything for that reason, it's never worth saving 35p to find you're half a metre short having spent hours rolling round under the truck tucking it all in! There's blade fuse holders that bolt almost perfectly where the old glass fuses were if your truck is old enough to have them. You need a quality ratchet crimper and quality crimps - cheap ones WILL fail and fall off. You need at least one bag of 1000 cable ties and ideally a cable-tie tensioning & cutting gun to cut them flush so they don't slice your arm later. I use cheap party packs of assorted colours (EG 10 colours in one pack) to temporarily hold groups of wires together and then finalise the loom nipping it all up with proper black ties and cable wrap as required. White cable ties are not UV stable and will ping after a few years. Glue-lined 3:1 ratio heat-shrink is the dogs danglies. I bought the VWP party pack Amp Econoseal selection box with crimper and that's a nice thing for making sections of loom unpluggable. Freelander 1 earth commoning blocks are a very handy thing - 8 spade terminals into a single bolt with a plug-in connector.

That's not right, got a picture?

Surely the axle can hit that? Bump stops compress so design it as if the bump-stop wasn't there and the axle could hit the chassis.

That's definitely not right - aside from Steve's suggestions are your wheel bearings OK?

You're doing it all wrong Dave, what you need is a shagged out lump that's done 150k with minimal servicing and a FIP that's never been serviced or set up and then just wind the screws up until it's propelled along the road on a column of unburnt fuel - maybe throw a £5.99 eBlag brightly coloured air filter on there for an extra 10bhp down the pub

We need photos of the revised project!

This argument is fallacious and dangerous. https://www.wired.com/2013/06/why-i-have-nothing-to-hide-is-the-wrong-way-to-think-about-surveillance/ I'm no expert but I'm a lot more familiar with how all this tech works than the average joe and it's a huge problem that everyone is ignoring because they're too smitten with their social media and mobile phones. If you've got nothing to hide why not post your full name, address, phone number, credit card, bank details and internet browsing history here for us to see? Also, going back to "why don't they track people with drones" etc... every mobile phone from a 2G Nokia 5110 upwards can be tracked and the police can fairly easily see that, if it's powered up and within range of a cell tower the network knows where it is, it has to for the thing to work. Unlike China, our police generally only do that sort of thing when they have to and mostly they're not tracking who's who, they'll just be looking at broader data like "how many people are in the park?". Same with our CCTV systems, they're surprisingly simple and usually end up on a video wall in front of some police staff rather than being fed into some sinister national face-recognition database. Honestly I'm more worried about Facebook or internet-connected video doorbells than our public CCTV systems.

If he gets it performing OK then in a 90 it should pull a Disco/RR transfer box (1.222:1) which is about £1450 cheaper than an overdrive unless you are regularly towing heavy loads and need the low gearing AND the cruising. We've got the 1.4 LT230 + OD combo in the ambulance and it's glorious but thankfully didn't cost anywhere near full price. I find bimbling along behind the trucks gets pretty tedious after a while, especially if you've got 1000 miles to cover.

Just a warning - if you use cool white, it turns the workshop into a "Vegas cube" where your brain doesn't realise it's late-o-clock! Sometimes this might be desirable, other times not so much

Have you measured it? By how much?

I meant the original kit you referenced is injection-moulded, hence the tolerances will be waaaay tighter than a 3D printed version - and the plastic type will lend itself to snapping together far better than PLA.

I'd say that's way off the mark - OP's problem seems to be far more basic, either his 90 has something basic wrong with it or he's just over-sensitive about the awful noise a TDi makes at high speeds Pretty much any old 90 should be able to hit 70-80mph on the flat unless there's something wrong with it - and bearing in mind the age of an average 90 there's loads of stuff that can hurt performance after 20+ years. Maybe a damn good service would restore it - it may have never had the tappets adjusted since it left the factory. If it can't pull 80mph in 5th now it likely won't pull it with an overdrive.

VWP do one for £20: https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-636-heated-rear-window-timer-relay

It's quite nice that they're not faffing about with idiots like this and charging them to set an example - in the states they're charging people with assault & terrorism for coughing on people or produce.

The airbag-simulator devices I've seen are basically a resistor of the correct value to fool the system into thinking the detonator is still connected. No I don't know the correct value - maybe try a selection kit.

I paid for the whole speedo, I'm going to use the whole speedo I reckon OP's problem is just tyre size and the fact it's a rattly old TDi A TDi in good shape should pull 80mph but the laws of physics dictate it won't get much further due to (the complete lack of) aerodynamics. Also second actually measuring the speed with GPS, LR speedo's are not exactly precision instruments!

I rekcon you'd be better off changing the design to suit the material, a tight clip-together thing like that from a precision injection mould is going to be hard to replicate to close enough tolerance - but there's likely other ways of doing it that would work just as effectively. One thing I'd like to try is lost-PLA metal casting - print the thing and then plop it in sand, pour in molten metal and have a very solid part.

@Arjan apologies, copy & paste failure! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303531627233 just an example @andy _1 the housing is just thin aluminium bent & bolted together.

From what little I've done, setup is everything - getting the thing square, the bed level, and having a rigid printer - a lot of designs seem to assume that unlike a CNC machine, there's no load on the head so it doesn't need to be rigid... wrong! You can see wobbles and inaccuracies in the print layers. Also there's a lot of fine-tuning in the settings that can make a huge difference, but take a lot of farting about to dial in perfectly - and can change when you swap filaments.

Yes, it's in the post: That was literally the first one that popped up on eBay - there's hundreds of them, and you need to look carefully as they all look similar and make very similar claims but some have better or worse features, check; - Single, dual, quad core + amount of RAM fitted - Operating system & version, some run Android 8, some run 5, some run Windows CE. - Some have Wifi, some you can cast your phone screen to them, some need a 3G dongle (but often don't mention it) - Most of them claim DAB, but they almost ALL need a dongle which is both more money and rubbish. - Most have steering-wheel controls - Most have bluetooth but the features & phones supported can vary, especially for fruity phones - Reversing camera / aux video input(s) and outputs, recording (dashcam) to an SD card - How many front & rear USB / aux connections, depending how you want to set it up. In my Jag I replaced the cig lighter with a USB + AUX socket which goes into the back of my unit, very neat... but not all units have those connections

There's a lot of chinese "mechless" single or double DIN head units which have no CD mechanism so are very thin, I fitted one into the ambulance in a simple panel that sits behind the dash: Stereo cost £15 delivered, a pair of cheap Halfords 6x9's mounted in the cab ceiling, it's not going to win any awards but in a Defender at 70mph you don't notice - it's got radio, USB, SD card and AUX input. I've got one a bit like this in my jag, again they can be had for dirt cheap and are thin enough to get into a Defender dash quite easily. Most of them have USB, SD card, Aux input, reversing camera, GPS and bluetooth connection - I added a DAB dongle to mine which was a total waste of time, reception is terrible.

Yeah but portals and small tyres don't half look silly... Acceleration is quite something though