DaveSIIA

Looking at the photo's , a production run of 1 is too many! Harsh, I know. Coat on and heading for the door.

Can't comment about the electronic detail of the LS1 into a P38, but my Overfinch 570HSi RRC runs a SBC through a modified ZF 4 speed box. The SBC (and by association LS1) looks like it was made to go in the engine bay. It's a much neater and more compact looking fit than a 3.9 Rover. Overfinch claim to have uprated the auto box to match the engine output (422lb-ft @ 3150rpm). They are unlikely to commit to market without having given this some thought. As the 4HP22 shares its case with the 4HP24, it could be worth speaking with a decent auto box specialist (Ashcrofts, etc) to explore the options. The TH400/4L80E options involve a longer main box and an adapter. What is the P38 like for space to grow the transfer box backwards ~6 inches? The other problem using these transmissions in a RRC is the right hand drop transfer box means the propshaft runs close to the auto box sump. This should be less of a problem with a LH drop on the P38. On the electronics front, I'd be looking at US based web sites as someone is bound to have swapped out a knackered Rover motor. BTW: Right foot control can't be relied on to protect the transmission. There's always the urge to let the engine do its stuff

90's/110's & Defenders all use 3.54 diff's. A SWB IIA should work ok with a 1.2 high ratio and a LWB with a 1.4 on 3.54 diff's. Much depends on your chosen tyre size as well. The LT77/LT230 combination is (IIRC) ~4" longer than the Series boxes. The distance between F & R propshaft flanges is different to a Series. You are into custom propshafts. Also check clearance behind the transfer box to the crossmember under the seat base if fitting to a SWB. Others have done the conversion and you might find a write up on this forum.

Yes, a broad disclaimer. However, the failure was due to the wastegate sticking and boost pressure rising to 13-14psi when it should have been limited to 5-6psi. I measured the air temperature going in to the inlet manifold at 13psi boost and recorded ~160C. I don't have notes for the temperature at 5psi, but recall it was around 60C. A significantly different thermal load. Now there's a big boost gauge (think Fred Dibnah style) in a prominant position on the dash so I don't hit the same problem again. The key points are: It has done 32K miles since diagnosing the cause of the piston failure, and fixing it. Those miles have been fairly hard (there is something wrong with my right foot which seems to make it heavy on the pedal ), generally motorway and fast A roads but also includes heavy towing 2.5-3.5 tons. It has been totally reliable ever since. The engine still starts easily and pulls a SWB IIA quite well, but hasn't been my daily driver for 10 years or so. Everybody told me at the time that it was a recipe for disaster, but I went ahead anyway - more for the engineering challenge - because I wanted more life out of the 2.25NAD. The aim was to match or better the 2.25P without going to a V8. It was fun to do and is different. I understood the risks associated with turbocharging an antique engine, and the consequences of failure were acceptable. Not everyone wants to run a vehicle which is close to its ragged edge. I wouldn't bother with the conversion these days because Tdi's are readily available at low cost. They are also inherently more reliable and easier to work on (particularly the 300). I'm looking at replacing the 2.25 with a 300Tdi when I rechassis the IIA. Most people would just settle with point 4 above as it would satisfy what they want from the vehicle.

I don't know whether there is a low pass filter in the unit - it sounds like it though when tested with a full bandwidth line out signal. To be on the safe side, I set the head unit (mid range Sony) to low pass filter at 125Hz on the sub output. All worked ok with no unexpected sounds coming from the subwoofer.

The RRC subwoofer contains two drive units. These are driven by a power amp that sits on top of the enclosure. The frequency range of the subwoofer is ~20-150Hz. The connections to the power amp on a 1995 model year are:- Light Green / Orange - 12V in, fed from Fuse 3 (10 amp) of the Fascia Fuse Box. Pink / Yellow - Sub amp control (on/off) from head unit. Pull up to 12V to switch on amp. Red / Yellow - audio signal in from head unit. Black (thin) - return for audio signal. Black (thick) - ground. Screen on audio cable - grounded at head unit. I got the subwoofer working with an aftermarket head unit by fitting a phono plug to the Red/Yellow and thin black wires, and connecting the Pink/Yellow to the amp control terminal on the head unit. The subwoofer power amp was sufficient to keep up with a 4x50W head unit.

Oh, I must have missed something - the turbocharged 2.25 in my IIA has done 35k miles. Apart from melting a piston (too much boost) at 3k miles, it has been reliable. I did the conversion in 1995 when Tdi's were somewhat very expensive. If I was looking to do something similar these days then a Tdi would be the starting point.

Before sending the shaft back, I would check the fit on the TH400 output shaft and run a vernier/micrometer over the splines to the LT230. Although not your problem to fix, it would give you a good indication where the problem lay - shaft diameter oversize / splines not cut deep enough / spline width incorrect.

What vehicle - 90/110? If 110, then I could do the measurements.

Nothing to lose by trying. If it is a resonance then raising the tickover speed would be better. If lowered then you will have to pass through the resonance.

I understand that the LT85 gearbox was replaced by a ZF unit (think the same as the Sprinter) from August 2005. Didn't recognise the axles though - definitely not LR. Main consumables readily available from commercial vehicle parts suppliers. There are a few around the Peak and the owners I have spoken with are quite happy with them. Still doesn't fix the plastic dash and cart suspension, but they will be somewhat cheaper than an equivalent 110.

Grabber AT2's get my vote. Had them on my Td5 110 to replace a set of BFG MT's. They're a much better balanced tyre for road use and not too bad off road. My 300Tdi 110 has Trac Edge and I have just replaced an axle pair with Insa Turbo Traction Track while I run out the remaining three Trac Edge. Although the advertising blurb talks of the ITTT's being a replacement of the Trac Edge, and the pictures show them to be exactly the same tread pattern, there are some differences in the lugs at the edge of the tread. Although they are marked as 235/85R16, the ITTT's look more like they have been moulded on 7.50 carcasses! I have had no end of problem getting the vehicle to handle properly - think Escort Mk2 rally car sideways with the ITTT's on the rear and noticeable understeer with them on the front Tried different pressures and even checked all the bushes in case that was exacerbating the problem. This highlights the differences between tyre brands. Bottom line is I'm giving serious thought to selling the Trac Edges while they still have a reasonable amount of tread and buying a full set of AT2's rather than run everything down.

IIRC, a restrictive exhaust causes EGT to increase as the cylinder cannot fully exhaust and hence a full volume of air cannot be drawn on the intake cycle. The engine then runs more fuel rich, raising EGT. @steffUK: The term your refer to as 'air ratio y' is the ratio of specific heats and is generally not a tuneable commodity. It has a widely accepted value of 1.4 for air, but this is dependent on the specific characteristics - temperature; pressure; humidity; etc.

As diesels run with fully open air intakes and increase fuelling to increase power, wouldn't the above cause the EGT to be higher under light loads than at full throttle? Quite the reverse of what actually happens! There may be some confusion between petrol and diesel EGT's vs fuel/air ratio.

I bought a pair of Insa Turbo Traction Tracks (to go with 3 remaining BFG Trac Edge) from my local tyre place. They ordered them lunch time and delivery was by 9am the following morning. The local place doesn't stock too wide a range of 4x4 tyres, but can get stuff easily. There will probably be somewhere similar near you. 4 Site 4x4 are distributors for Insa Turbo and have a dealer locator on their web site.

If recon boxes fitted recently enough to be under warranty, then take the problem back to whoever fitted the boxes and let them fix it. Doubt there would be enough space between the idler gear and the case to fit a nut. You would have to remove the transfer box to get enough clearance to fit a Helicoil.

Could be worth adjusting the idle speed a little as the engine may be exciting a resonance in the bulkhead assembly or mounting arrangement.

Why not use a P38 R380 in place of your LT77? That way, the clutch remains a standard item.

Worn / faulty ignition switch? Had exectly the same symptoms with my Defender 110. Changing the switch is easy once the shroud around the steering column is removed. IIRC, one screw holds in the back end of the key barrel.

Lay a straight edge along the gasket face of the manifold. That will show whether it needs skimming.

Chances are that Schuler used a (then) readily available TF727 case and made their transfer box to suit. This pre-dated the 3 speed auto in factory RR's (Aug 82). You will probably find that LR used a different tail housing on the TF, so as to mate with the LT230. There may be a short tail shaft similar to that used with the ZF auto. I don't have a parts book to hand and it's a bit damp to crawl under the 3-speed auto on the drive.

A search through this forum gives "How to replace the throttle spindle seal on a Tdi Injection pump". HTH

Is it my eyesight, or is there a bolt missing on the flange?

Have you had a look at Eliot Mansfield's site? There is a fair bit of information about mating TH350/TH400/700R4/4L80E to the LT230 in his Dakar.

There's something odd as the voltage across the battery normally drops a little as load increases. Assuming your voltmeter is working ok, I would suggest a regulator fault as the 15-20V is too high! You run the risk of damaging the battery with that sort of voltage across it.