DaveSIIA

I have a few (LR) projects on the go at the moment, and a couple involve swapping transmissions. I'm looking for something easier than balancing the gearbox on a couple of jacks / stands and wrestling till everything lines up. The easiest way would be a four post ramp and a proper transmission jack, but I have neither. The next best solution seems to be lift the vehicle on ramps / axle stands to give plenty of clearance (~18-20" under the chassis rails) to skate the transmission out, once lowered. The lowering bit would need a trolley jack with a very high lift. Also, it would need a cradle that attaches to the the transmission like those in factory manuals - easy enough to knock up. I have an old but sound 2T trolley jack with a 15" lift which I could cut the lifting arm and extend, also extending the cradle stabiliser bars, to give ~24" lift. The base frame would also have to be extended for stability, given front castors and probably made to have a wider track. The total load to be lifted would be of the order of 100kg, so well within the capabilities of the ram - even if the arm ended up 3x as long. Before I cut metal, has anyone built (or vapour built) something similar and what were your experiences?

Thanks for replies. 150lb.ft = dead viscous coupling. Looks like I'll use a LT230 for a bit higher gearing in the 110.

I've a BW transfer box (unknown history) on the bench. Thought I would check it over before throwing it into the 110 while the gearbox is out for a new clutch arm. The front drive flange takes 100-150lb.ft to turn it when the rear flange is locked. Is this normal or has the VC seen better days?

80kg was a figure that has been mentioned. I've been wrestling with one this morning (already on the bench) and it certainly feels it.

Don't knock it, the "subscribe" link works - what more do they need? Not that the rest of the site would make me even dream of subscribing

Many thanks, was worth asking though.

From the feel of the pedal and the noise made when the clutch stopped working, the pivot ball has punched through the release arm. A bit disappointing as it has only done 15k miles since a complete new clutch / arm / pivot / bearing and rebuilt gearbox were fitted. I have read the threads by Les Henson about swapping the arm with the gearbox moved back in the vehicle, and about beefing up the new arm before fitting. All no problem. A quick question though - I have a release arm off a V8 Defender on the shelf, can this be used with a 300Tdi? The same arm is used with a Td5. Also late 300Tdi's & Td5's use the same part number clutch slave cylinder. The V8 arm is cast, with a nylon pad at the pivot. This would probably last a lot longer than the flimsy pressing - possibly why LR used it on the Td5. Alternatively, anyone had any experience with welding a cup to the pressed arm to take the SIII/V8/Td5 nylon pad for the pivot? Is it worth the effort or will the pressed arm fail around it?

300Tdi 110 CSW - typically 25 round the Peak District to 28-30 on the motorway (depending on how much of a hurry I am in!). Worst was 19.4 average out of one tankful, foot down across Germany. It still rolls out mpg figures comparable with when I bought it 260k miles ago in '97. Td5 110 CSW - typically 22-24, improving to 27-28 on a motorway run. Boot (further up the thread) now has the vehicle and mustn't drive it like it was stolen! SWMBO used to squeeze 30ish out of it on a run. Pushed hard with a roof rack on, I reckon you could see the fuel gauge going down. Overfinch 570HSi RRC - don't ask! Well, the first two tanks averaged 9 due to hooning around. Then settled in to 12-14 on local runs and 16-18 on motorway runs (depending how much of a rush I am in). Haven't tried any significant towing, so there's a new experience awaiting.

This could be the future given the way fuel prices are rising

A lot of useful information. Thanks.

Afraid I don't have the sizes to hand, but IIRC the sump washer is much small than the one for the gearbox. If there's no damage to the ones that are in then I'd just anneal them and re-use. If damaged, then they are only pence to replace so a quick trip to Buxton would guarantee the correct part.

Take the old one down to Walker & Howell in Whaley, sort of thing they carry. Alternatively, Buxton 4x4 on the Common.

I've a RRC with a SBC running through a ZF4HP22 (with 4HP24 internals). 330bhp & 420lb.ft doesn't do the box any good, particularly full power 3-4 shifts. For more than that, I'd look at a TH350, TH700R4 or 4L80E. The BW transfer box seems to hold up ok though. The engine mounts are a couple of inches forward of the normal RR V8 position, with the gearbox in its regular position (standard length props). I'd have to measure up for the exact distance. The SBC looks right under the RR bonnet. The installation is a lot less cluttered than a 3.9 EFI I was comparing it with.

Attempting to refit it with the box in situ will provide hours of "entertainment"

In simple terms, no. You would need the extension housing off a LR based LT77 and then you get into serious gearbox rebuilding / parts doctoring. The best starting point would be a LR box and add the few bits you need from the SD1.

Yes. It even has a rubber boot on the top so you can manually activate it when the key switch fails. A SIII solenoid would do the same, but normally without the rubber boot for manual operation.

SD1 bell housing & input shaft can be done, and involves pulling the forward part of the case off the centre plate to get to the parts. The easy solution would be to use a V8 conversion ring as FF says ^^^. You'll need to modify the end of the V8 crank to sort a 4 cylinder spigot bush. Fifth gear on V8 LT77's is generally a little higher than the 4 cylinder versions. Either swap the 5th gear pair (main & layshaft) or decide it's not worth the effort. Chassis wise, if the back end is crumbling then look at the front end (fwd of the axle) and the gearbox cross member. If that is on its way out then a new chassis (galvanised) would be the best bet. Most aftermarket chassis suppliers already know where to put mounts for different engine & gearbox combinations, so could build something to suit your requirements.

TB Turbo's used to do a kit for turbocharging the 2.5NAD. About 6psi boost, so not too excessive. I've got one fitted to my 2.25D IIA and it lifts the performance a bit - cruises quite happily at 70mph with RR diff's. Used kits turn up on the likes of Ebay from time to time.

Turbo >> Intercooler >> Squirt ! Very tasty, and not that expensive to put right when it all melts

Many years ago, I used to run a HS6 (1 3/4") on my 2.25P. The adapter was a piece of aluminium tube (~2" ID) bent through (IIRC) 60 degrees (to set the correct carb angle), with a suitable flange (~3/8" thick) on each end. It bolted to the LR manifold on the studs used for the Solex carb. The orientation was fore/aft so the IIA throttle linkage could connect easily. I did a lot of playing with springs and needles (IIRC the jet was 0.100) and ended up using a red spring (yellow was pretty well good enough, but the engine had been "opened out a little"). Unfortunately, I can't remember the needle used. It's bound to be somewhere in the archives. The SU, combined with a Lumenition contactless electronic ignition unit, gave a fairly lively engine (by the standards of the day, and discounting V8's). It used to return 23/24mpg on a run in a SWB IIA, cruising at 70-75mph with overdrive and RR diff's on 205 tyres.

I would drain the oil from the main box, and look for suspicious bits of metal. The symptoms sound like possible failure of the bush that 2nd & 3rd gears run on - not entirely unheard of with Series boxes. If no bits of metal in the oil, then refill with fresh oil and try again.

Take a look at commercial semi-trailers that don't have close coupled axles. The front axle has Ackerman steering. Another off the wall thought for your melting pot - provide 12V power from the tow vehicle and use the ABS system on the RR to run the brakes. ABS pump & ECU require 12V, you just need to rig a link (Bowden cable?) from the over-run coupling to the ABS master cylinder assembly (or even couple it to the tow vehicle brake system). The risk of jack knifing should be much reduced.

As Will says ^^^ , fitting shouldn't be much of a problem. 300Tdi mounts (keep the ones with the engine) are different to 2.5NAD & 200Tdi - chassis-wise they're a bit of angle iron with a hole in and a couple of bits of plate. The engine should sit in the standard 300Tdi position so the exhaust becomes a standard 300Tdi item. PAS pump fits straight to standard hoses for a 4/6 bolt steering box. You might need a different throttle cable (get the Disco one to start with). Radiator & intercooler (with frame) drops straight in. Hoses are probably different, but you can use standard items. There are bound to be other minor items in the engine bay which can be sorted with standard items. Your 2.5NAD transfer box will probably be too low geared for the 300Tdi, so the Disco one would be a better starting point. You'll need to swap the speedo drive gear for the one off your 2.5NAD though. If the auto box is mated to a Borg warner transfer box, you'll need the matching front propshaft (it's longer). A LT230 would be a direct fit. The 300Tdi handbrake will most likely be different to the 2.5NAD - either change over the old assembly or try the Disco cable. The tricky bit will be the centre console. I'd salvage the one from the Disco if possible and work something out from that. Performance wise, it'll be a lot quicker than your 2.5NAD but you might find a tweak of the fuel pump will give a little more to compensate for losses through the auto.

I wouldn't bother with the centre pivot front axle. For steering, you want a drawbar pivoted in the centre of the front axle and a drag link from the drawbar to the swivel housing (same arrangement as with the steering box). Over-run coupling on the drawbar linked into the brakes. Fit any style of body you like onto the RR chassis.

A reverse light switch off a Defender R380 gearbox screws straight in and the pin springs into the slot when aligned. As Les points out, don't put any strain on it or it will break!