Simon Smith

When mine was doing that it was the nut that holds the arm onto the transfer box, it had come loose so the lever needed to move too far before the difflock engaged.

The anti 4x4 brigate are probably sitting at home trying to prove that we should be forced to help, due to us causing the snow in the first place

I know Titch with the Bedford Rascal / SJ The colour suited it better when it had the signwriting on it I must say!

Drove to work. Worked all day, only stopping to rant at the door of the closed NatWest so I couldn't pay my wages in. Brushed snow off Landy. Drove home. Thoroughly boring normal day, really can't see what the problem is. Ok so who broke the smileys?

I fitted a snow cowl to my intake and it makes a big difference to demisting when it's raining, yes I know there's a drain in the plenum but a lot of the rain must still make it to the heater where it turns to vapour and gets blown on to the screen. I think it would help with your mod too Simon.

Put a new fuel filter on it first before you start stripping it down. I had exactly the same with mine, swapped the filter over and it was a different car! The boost pressure won't go up if it's not getting enough juice.

That was Harry, beautiful pedigree GSD. lost him year before last year with Leukemia. Now have another nutter GSD though!

Never seen a rideon mower, or any mower for that, with a 6v battery, and I work on the effing things every day. It might be small but should be 12volt. Having had all sorts of issues with cheap chargers I will never use one again, false economy. Oh and here's the 8210 Turbo

I have one of the larger Cteks (we used to sell them) I used it on my Ford 8210 tractor to keep the battery topped up all winter. It is an excellent bit of kit and survived being left out in the rain and snow plugged in to a weatherproof socket hidden in my hedge. I also have a couple of the small ones keeping the batteries topped up on our Dual Drive tractor.

Good selection of security products from X-Engineering. I wouldn't inform the insurance of any security products, as the discount is miniscule, and the instant you forget to use it and the car is stolen they can refuse to pay out. Or at least this has been the case with several people on the bike forums.

Yep, found in the past that being in their showroom scaring away other customers always works wonders.

Do what they do on many out-front 4wd mowing machines, take the drive from the wrong end of the engine. Though it does make changing the fan belt a pain!

Of course when I say the other end of the car, I mean in relation to the engine!

Back in my AWDC days, yes a long long time ago. It was common to do thiis. Yes you need to turn the diff upside down to effectively move the pinion to the other side of the crownwheel. The rear axle you can just flip over, because being at the other end of the car (what was the front) it will now have the diff on the correct side, then weld on new spring mounts etc. For the front axle you can do the same but you will then need to turn the swivel housings the other way up. Unfortunately you will now need to park the car upside down on the ceiling to drain the oil

Haven't got a TD5, but I have fitted catch tanks to all my vehicles. Never did like the idea of blowing the vapour into the intake.

Stand corrected, Genuine '96 on manual says sliding joints at transfer box end. Need to find the old manual, but up to 200 Tdi should definately be the other way. Interestingly the 87 on parts book shows the front prop with the slide at the transfer box end and the rear prop with it at the axle end, so no two LR documents agree with each other anyway

I had a genuine LR manual in the ring binders, which I managed to loose. It was the ninety and oneten manual with the defender supplement. It clearly stated two propshafts, one for LR 90-110 and Defender 200Tdi up to xxx and one for Chassis xxx onwards. Every 200Tdi and earlier I have seen or worked on has had the front propshaft the way I said from new. Having said that the genuine Manual I have now is a 1996 issue, but doesn't tell you which way round it goes. Though some pictures show it one way and some the other. Just checked Haynes as well for 90, 110 and Defender 1983 to 1995 and it clearly states "Ensure that the propeller shaft is refitted with the sliding joint towards the front of the vehicle (nearest the front axle)" which would seem to indicate that the change is around 1995-96. I think it's safe to say, if it vibrates and all the UJ's are ok. Try it the other way round.

Only on later props, Early ones are the other way on the front, can't remember when it changed but the garage which fitted my Ashcroft gearbox fitted the front one with the sliding joint at the rear, it should have been at the diff end. I only investigated because of the noise and vibration and discovered there were two different front props.

My std front prop is out of phase, but got put on the wrong way round. It vibrated and shuddered under accelleration until I turned it round. Confusing on front props as LR made two types Early (mine) has the sliding section at the front and later has it at the back. What I'm trying to say is, have you tried it the other way round? Most props cant have the phasing changed as there is normally a master spline.

Is it supposed to be out of phase? I know the front one is but I only know 110s and am used to the rear being in phase, and as the angles on each end look similar I wought have thought yours should be too.

Thanks for letting me have the spare one Mr Wabbit. Got round to fitting it this morning before I went out, and it works perfectly. Hardest part of the job was getting the old one out of the socket, talk about fecking tight

Check or replace the gearbox seal too while you are in there. Normally if the wading plug is left out (as it should be when not required) engine oil leaking doesn't get on the clutch but gearbox oil will. Though with the plug in and a litre of engine oil in there it will get on the clutch.

I thought that was a cow on the magic roundabout

Seems I took too long to type that

You moved the switched feed to the relay too far. Needs to be between the switch and the bulb. On your drawing you will have the same voltage either side of the coil.