Simon Smith

They might also find that I'm more prepared!

Landy broken into sometime last night, nothing taken and no damage, so they wanted the car I would think. Anyway it looks like the X-Defend pedal lock made them walk away.

Heard a similar noise on many occasions on many different vehicles. Every time it has been a UJ. Just because there's no play in it doesn't mean it's good, in fact sometimes they have been almost solid once removed.

I put a 1.2 in my old 110 van running 235s and had no problems. It pulled just as well as it did before but crused much better on the motorway. Only problem I had was having to drill and tap the holes for the external handbrake mechanism being an older 110 and not having the handbrake on the replacement t-box

X-mug

Theres nothing to leak from the intercooler, are you sure that its not something you've picked up from the road if it's on the grill?

Mine is an Armval, but they dissapeared some years ago. Would be quite easy to make one though, it's only a non return valve with adjustable spring pressure, when the boost reaches the required pressure it lifts a ball bearing off it's seat against the spring and the pressure can reach the actuator, when the boost drops again the ball seats and a tiny bleed hole lets the wastegate return to the fully closed position. Something you could knock up after tea Barry.

Got a boost controller on mine, does exactly what it says on the tin. Far better than pratting about with the control rod, and holds the wastegate completely shut until you reach the set boost.

My Huawei phone discharges rapidly if plugged into anything other than it's own charger, but then charges up perfectly normally. On the usb adapter in the car it does the same unless the engine is running. I have been told by an Apple phone guru that with iphones and ipads it checks the available charging current, which on most aftermarket chargers is too low, so it will refuse to charge, if you use a higher output charger they charge fine.

Did the same with my petrol series 3 with a similar tool. The only difference being that I welded an airline fitting onto the body of an old sparkplug, connected it to my compressor and fitted it in each cylinder in turn to keep the valves shut. Obviously you don't need that bit on a Tdi though as long as it's at TDC.

Watch the cheap ones, as I've found they don't have a high enough output, and many smartphones and most Apple stuff refuse to charge from them. That one is a bit expensive, but should work better.

Had the same trouble once, but I think it was becase I kept moving it. Once bolted on it came free straight away.

Haven't you got a rat problem Barry, sounds like a night lamping might be needed soon

My centre sectoin fitted the standard downpipe, but the second joint is a slide together one instead of a flange. Mine is about 10 years old now, so I don't know about the later ones.

Yes, but not cheap. http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/frame-manranges.asp?code=52

My Janspeed one is 57mm diameter (and I now have a wet arse) but the bends are all mandrel bends so there's no reduction.

The second thread mentions removing the outer seals, but doesn't show one. Also no mention of putting one back in. Personally I have worked on drum and disc braked 110 axles and not seen an outer seal on any of them.

Only one gasket sealer worth using. Wellseal. It won't block anything up as it never sets but just stays very very sticky, perfect for this job.

When it's cold, I dress for the cold, even this winter when I've been out playing in the snow I normally only have the heater on demist. But then I'm often out on the bike when everyone else says it's too cold too. Tried heated seats in a mates car and didn't like the sensation at all.

Never felt the need for heated seats myself, but if someone made a heated steering wheel however..................

Once you have cut thee bolts off and got the prop off, you will have to undo and remove the flange to change the bolts. I would chage the oil seal while you have it off too.

I have had Britpart front calipers on my 110 for about 6 years now. No leaks, no sticking, no visible corrosion, they work perfectly in every way. The castings are identical to the original ones. Of course a lot may have changed in 6 years!

My dim-dip relay went pear shaped and caused all sorts of intermittent faults, so I bypassed it. Somewhere on here is a thread on how it's done.

I hope you parked your somewhere else Barry as Tim says it wasn't in the road this morning. (but then with his eyesight.........)

Too close to home for me too, and Charlie would only lick them to death. Still if I'm lucky enough to hear them at it there's always the twelve bore