Simon Smith

I have the clear RDX lights and they are excellent. Really solidly made and a massive improvement over the originals. I would certainly recommend them.

I agree Barry, I spoke to two of our local officers at a meeting last Thursday, neither of them had seen the footage or knew anything about this. Considering they are both based in Caterham Police Station ...............................................

I think the engine in my old 110 was an S11L too. It was one of the very first retrofit kits, fitted by myself and AJS. There were a couple of parts missing from the kit, and because this was an early trial of the kit they were delivered overnight!!

Yes, change the hub seals, I much prefer oil filled hubs, the bearings seem to last much longer without needing any adjustment. If you've had to nip the bearings up a couple of times, I would change them too. But use Timken ones, if you use blue box ones you will regret it!

Yes, they don't notice the pedal lock even when it's bright yellow bumblebee striped. Mine has been broken into twice in my drive and once down a lane in Kingscote when I was walking the dog. Each time I returned the door had been opened, but nothing taken, so it was the car they were after.

Welcome Kassie, good choice of vehicle Look forward to seeing some pictures.

I fitted these, sealed, approved, watertight, E-marked and flat on the back. They are very bright, and apparently they do a front sidelight with built in DLR too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230920308990?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_6101wt_1091

Or you can fit perfectly legal, e marked LED sealed units, which is by far the best option in my opinion.

I swapped all mine for LED bulbs but still suffered the poor quality lamps causing failures, the RDX ones are sealed units, and also give a better output than LED bulbs. Wipac also do sealed ones and they look pretty good too, my choice was only down to a toss of the coin, and the adjustable flasher unit that means the trailer light works properly for the new MOT.

I fitted a set of the RDX LED lamps today, they certainly solve all the normal problems and seem very robust, I just got fed up with the poor quality of all the standard lights I had tried.

With the lower links to the rear of the axle, and the "A" frame on the front, the castor angle will be changing constantly, and with no panhard rod it will be bump steering constantly too. In my opinion it will be positively dangerous to even attempt to drive it on the road. For good steering behaviour you want the geometry to change as little as possible as the axle moves, you are thinking of doing the exact opposite. I fitted a home made 3 link and panhard rod to my special back in the 80's, it worked perfectly in class 1 modified trials and was copied by many, it also handled fairly well when I did a bit of high speed off road testing at Peters Pit. But of course any increase in front axle articulation will dramatically increase body roll at speed.

My LT77 was the same when I tried MTF 94, switched back to good old ATF and it works perfectly. Just because LR say you can............

The reason I went back to EP was because of bone dry top swivels, even worse with railco bushes than with bearings.

If you really must use the horrible stuff the easiest way is to transfer it into a large syringe, big ones available from your local agricultural shop such as Scatts. Remove both filler and drain plugs and squirt it in through the drain hole.

Or just use EP90. I have given up using one shot as it is, in my opinion, useless. It doesn't splash around enough to keep the top swivel lubricated in my opinion.

Having looked at a few, compared to a Defender, purely based on chassis corrosion I wouldn't touch a D2 with somebody elses bargepole. Just my opinion, but I would rather have a D1. Actually I lie, I would rather have a Defender, but that's a personal thing.

Sometime, only sometimes mind you, I'm pleased to be old.

Mine wasn't so much a recess, But the raised bit either side were pressed to allow the wheel to sit lower. But it wasn't original to my 110 it was off a very early 110 2.25 petrol which also had lift handle doors with wind up windows but with dummy galvanised cappings. It also left the factory with a 109 style rear tub with the toolbox holes in the inner wings, but defender style arches. Maybe they only made a few bonnets like it early on, but I certainly wouldn't want the spare any higher

Defender bonnets designed to take the spare have a recess in them so it fits level and a little lower. Also the one I had on the old 110 was internally reinforced. Even with the recess after fitting 235 tyres you could easily lose a small car, bicycle child etc in front of you, so I wouldn't recommend it. A proper wheel carrier on the back is the way to go.

Testing the wheel brakes on a single axle rig is perfectly fine as the speed is very low, however all the garages I've used have tested the handbrake by just trying to push the vehicle with it on. As far as I know it should never be applied while the vehicle is moving, no matter how slowly, it is a parking brake only.

Many years ago I broke a 4" drill in a capstan lathe, made a bit of a bang I can tell you! That was beyond sharpening. It also took a tooth off the lathes gearbox. I sharpen all my drills at home, and those at work by eye on the bench grinder. It really is worth learning and practicing as once you can do it it's so much quicker than using a sharpener.

Yes, we service a Dingo for one of our customers, it looks stupid with those panels on it. I agree the steering is terrible though.

Nearly all fans are now made assymetrical, including those we used to use on refrigeration and aircon. It means that the sound frequency is constantly changing and therefore won't start to resonate. So they are a lot quieter. If you look at modern electric cooling fans or even some Defender viscous fans you will see that the spacing varies on those too.

The paperwork I got from them said it was forbidden, no chance of paying the duty. I think it's probably an environmental thing with black diesel and difficulty with policing on heating oil etc. they know your running on veg oil without dipping the tank as following you makes them think of fish and chips.

Mine is on 265-75x16 BFG Muds, and it doesn't like 40psi in the back, it seems very skittish. Handles best on 36psi all round, even with a heavy trailer and tyres are wearing fine. So I would try lowering the rear pressure a bit.